Charles R. Stevens

I started out with a 1985 3/4ton suburban diesel (about 20mpg) but my latest rig is a bit bigger. 01 Isuzu NPR 4500, (1 1/2 ton) $6000 + 2500 for repairs and modifications (bed and boxes). Isuzu clames its a 500,000 mile chasie so at 290k I'm happy. 23 mpg (diesel) isn't bad. The NPR also comes as a 3500 (1 ton) and newer models have bigger power plants as well as a slabs 4 doors (more $) and older ones have smaller power plants. Often old stream sweepers can be picked up cheep (sands the sweeper unit) but the parts for an I frame rebuild of the engine is $1000-1500. Yes it is a premium block like an over the road truck. She isn't sexy but I have a 7' 3" by 12' bed, originally it had an 8' by 14' box. Either way it's a lot of work space. I shoe out of (off of?) her and still have a 10' bed with my equipment. I mounted the box on an old fith wheel frame. So not only do I have a large truck bed, I still have a mobile work shop if I so choose. Fat chance, Linda took it over for her fabric and notions storage. Do you have any idea how much fabric and sewing stuff a seamstress and historical costume maker can collect? Like everything in blacksmithing, learn to think out side the box.

Rich, and certainly Steve. My interest hasn't turned to knife making, in any serious fasion as of yet (tho David boye's book has been on my shelf for over 25 years). The fact that the information is there (infact the hammer tutorial sent me hunting threw the sight for half a day) is conferting, as I know I'll turn my hand that way. As a parent I learned that we tend to focus on the bad, and forget the good. As my dad put it " one ah .... Negates a bunch of ata boys). There isn't a thread I read that dosnt have at least one other person reading it, including your work in the knife section. I think that despite the ignorant newbie questions, your work is being read and used everyday. You experience and time is apretiate by the majority of us. Glenn, again thank you and the other moderators for bringing this modern library of information to us. As Rich, I'm inspired to give back to IFI, I don't have his experience, but I'm learning.

Welcome to IFI, but more importantly thanks for serving! Dad was navy 40 years back and I was army some 20+ years ago.

So when is she scheduled to ship?

As Thomas already pointed out, how your hammer is dressed is very important. As it comes from the store it's not right. There are a few descusions on how to "dress" or regrond your hammer faces, pluss Steve and Rich spend a lot of brain sweat on the "knife making class" and specifically address grinding a big Box store hammer. In short the face should be smooth, not showing the spiral and little bump in the middle with the be beveled edge. It should have a a slightly convex shape (some say it should be flat in the center of "x" inches but I don't agree, if you want flatter, use one) and the chamferd edge should be made in to a smoth radius. Scale, hammer control, anvil hight will all get you, but I see a lot of folks trying to start with store bought hammer and fighting it all the way.

Actuality Th, if he uses charcoal, he can get fuel for free too. Both Fosty and Thommas have talked about forging by taking coals from a fire and using them. Not the most eficsint use of fuel, but construction scrap and palate can be found for free. I know I've head that nailes were some times made in fireplaces.

I would like to suggest to any one digging a hole like this footing. The post hole digger and the post hole "spoon" as well as the sharpshooter. It's a lot easyer for me to use a set of clamshells to lift out the loose soil int a narrow, deep hole. The spoon, really is just a sharpshooter with the lower 1/3 of the blade notched, and bent over 90deg to cleat the last bit out of the hole (you can buy very long handed ones for hand setting power poles!) and of corse the sharpshooter (long handled) is a light duty spud that looks like a trenchin shovel.

So I stand corrected, no more dangerous than skate boarding! That offer stands double for mom and dad. Unless its private I'll ask you to repost to the forum, Glenn set this up so that other folks, even your grandchildren can learn from your questions, mistakes, and triumphs.

As you're 13 lets start with things you must do and should not do. Please give your parents a heads up. Burning down the neighborhood or burning, cutting or mashing off digits would be bad. At least mom and dad can help keep that chance to a minimum. Not to insult you but a 13 year old brain hasent fully developed and things that a 21+ year old would catch you might over look. Do wear jeans, leather boots and a cotton shirt. No exceptions, plastic will not even start to shield you from hot steel and it will turn in to burning sticky goo. Eye and ear protection another nonnegotiable. Never use galvinised, painted or chromed steel (stay away from scrap brass to) they will kill you. Don't steal mom or your sisters hairdryer, don't huff the yellow green smoke of the coal, it will kill you, just slower. I know I sound like a grown up. That said, their are smiths on this sight that have started younger than you right here on IFI. Welcome to our addiction. And to your mom and dad. With proper supervision this isn't any more dangerous than riding his bike around the neighborhood. Yes, he will get burns, cuts and scrapes, but so have you it's part of growing up. I don't think Glenn will mind if one of you signs up to, if you do, and you have questions, IM me and I'll try to help, or post them and some one will answer you. Buy the way, I "barowed" moms hairdryer 30 years ago, she still holds a grudge.

John, with taxes, fuel and cost of living is there really much diferance in buying power?

All depends on your state and local suppliers. When I moved to OK from AZ I had to pay for revert and paint on my bottles. Otherwise the exchange bottles are exactly the same as rentals. They usually don't fill on sight.

The told of those bottles make nifty bells. The ring with the righting on it is just swagedon to the neck and torches of, leaving a nice small neck, a little fabrication and you can tread in a pipe plug/lifting eye and a dingle. That hard steel rings sweet.

Well said Rich. Do you still shoe, or have you gotten smarter than the rest of us?

Developed a taste for cream and sugar in it. I tried real hard to keep track of British units in the field. If you walked in at tea, they always gave you 10 min. Head start before resuming their exercise.

With production of 80+ a month a die set starts looking good. Even if you hand finish for astettics. I'd be tempted to use the pentode ring and a 2 5/16 trailer ball to preform my cup.even if it saved you 30% of your work.

Type I? Certainly doesn't seem to slow you down. My buddy's laugh at me, something with my eyes,even with the lightest safe lense I have to use work lights and helmet cover, or I lose sight of the joint and my welds go asque. Chalking only helps some, and of corse with the coner the lends and glasses fog up.

Thank you sir. Spending a week wit you is on my bucket list.

That and the price tag, that's about 5 sets of soes, installed. Other than bragging rights you need 25 resets to break even, god forbid you lose a shoe. But as far as cool, look what we can do... Great advertising. One wanders what a set of Brian's "ultamant" tongs would cost? Always was partial to purple

Brian, may I ask if there is a reason, besides opening the jaws wider you place the rivet back behind the wide elbo?

I see a bevel on the leading edge. Still have no ideal what its for.

Tommas, I'm spoiled. I haven't had to grab the dog eard welding book in a wile. I phone with an outer box defender. It's been trew $)(&. But truth is I know 3 good welders, so after a bit of research I make a phone call or 3.

I assume you didn't pre heat the rail. Rail is fairly high carbon, some sources say 90 point. I've never truer to weld it cold, always hot. 500 deg. Is what I was told, I heat it till its just starting to glow, then back off and let it cool wile I'm getting everything jigged up. Works for me. The it her point, even tho I've welded heavy stuff with preheat and good prep with a 110 welder, I know that you don't get good penetration. Like you will with a 220 unit. Old tombstones are cheap on the used market.

Got to love y'all from the other side of the pond. I miss tea in a British mess. Had a survival instructor that said if you could stop and make a cup'a you had everything you needed. Fond memories.

A couple of thoughts, from the cooking side of things. The thicker (with in reason) the bottom the better, rinsed or wiped clean is good enough (the pan will be heated to 250+, with practice less steep sides will alow you to flip eggs and pancakes with out a spatula. You will drop a few before you get the hang of it. Make sure to give the dog pepto and clean up the kitchen before the wife finds out...

A number 8 draft doesn't come in at 1 killo, in steel, much less a 0 aluminum racing plate. New t trick with 3D printing to be sure but the reporter is a bit daft. Some of the exotic shoeing packages for gated horses come in close.