Charles R. Stevens

And you expected any less? Lol i would recommend against the shop together laminent for wet locations, the vinyl plank looks just as good, almost as easy to put in and as the backing in a lot like the back side of tire patch it makes a solid water proof sheet.

There was a guy in Victorian England doing the horn bud transplant trick on Saan goats. John, I thought pitting my fingers in the fan pulling on a shirt sucked.

Dead and stupid have one thing in common. It’s every one else who suffer…

That is overly optimistic, Jerry. But stupid should hurt!

The thing about historic sites, they were occupied for a long time because it was a good place to live, farm and conduct business. What was the ice house and called the ice house long after it ceased to used for an ice house may well have been used as a farm shop in later times, second, forge fires, especially small farm forges aren’t necisarnaly large and hot. They weren’t forging anvils or locomotive parts. This doesn’t preclude farm maintenance shop sharing a wall with the ice house. True it’s unlikely an ice house house and a commercial blacksmiths shop shared a common wall at the same time, but not impossible. another common thing would be to use the foundations as a midden in later years. Not uncommon to find old roundhouses filled with field stones and other refuse in Europe were the old hole in the ground was a convenient place to deposit such.

Liberal application of a rounding hammer to a fool’s bald spot helps tho.

Dose your wife mind you mounting a vise in her kitchen? nice butcher block. Nice vice

Coal likes more air than charcoal and charcoal is helpful for starting hard coal. Note, as fire fleas become an issue with more air and higher temps with charcoal it is easier to burn up steel with coal. Mainly because we over air it and make it biter than we need. Patience comes with many a sparkler

A hair drier is overkill for charcoal, so just aim it at the tuyere and move it back and forth to control the blast. 12” should be fine, I use 8” myself and don’t melt anything.

You can order them from blacksmith and farrier suppers or take the published measurements and weld or have one welded up.

European or continental double horn. A very nice anvil.

The problem isn’t keeping my forging stuff in the shop, it’s keeping her stuff out of the shop!

So cover the holes in the bottom and measure down about 4 to 4-1/2” and drill a hole for a 3/4”schedule 40 pipe for your tuyere. Assuming a charcoal side blast. fill it with dirt to 1” below the tuyere (you can drop in a brick if you like) you can then continue filling it in leaving your trench and then build up the side walls. Now you have to source your air supply and your off to the races.

That is long side of the trench. The 4” end should face you when your working. to avoid cutting a hole in the lid you might want to take off one of the side tables and and place the lid on your non dominant side. This allows you to place long bars threw the fire.

Engineer…. one of my best friends is a manufacturing engineer, welcome to IFI. Translate the forges 101 and burners 101 pages for your buddy, it should keep him out of trouble for a week or two. Mike and Jerry have forgotten more about forge burners than most of us know.

One of the long sides work best. Ideally a trench 4” wide, 4-5 inches deep and 8-12” long tapering from the 4” ends. The slope makes it easier to clean the fire and for fuel to settle. 4-6” tall walls on the long sides mud works fine as I have melted hard fire bricks.

Aren’t condor just big buzzerds? Moose sized buzzerds, problem solved. Probably get paid to start a breeding program…

Carful now, vitrify that stuff and the county will raise your property taxes! Hard surface drive way and all…

I consider charcoal to be the original “green” fuel. Face it the smith is solar powered as well.

“pollo de los árboles”

Guess it time for star link…

1n 1990 the Doctors finally agreed with my friends and family. I am crazy ;-) Gassers are like pringles, you can’t have just one. A coffee can sized one with a 3/8 T burner dose a lot of work for little fuel. S hooks, small tools, knives etc. then a 1/2” T burner and maybe a pair. This gets you from small projects all the way up to 2”. the problem with gas is a forge generally uses X amount of fuel per hour regardless of what size stock your using. Now as you can only forge about 6 inches of hot steel at a time longer forges aren’t needed except for big scrolls and heat treating long knives. Generally a single burner 8-12” deep sized to the size of stock is more efferent. Old style loose fill solid fuel forges have the advantage of being reconfigurable, as to some extent brick pile gassers (there are insulated hard refractory bricks, but they are pricey). So if your going gas, I would suggest building a coffee can forge from a #10 can (they are thicker than coffee cans) for all the small work and a bigger forge out of a freon/helium can. This gets you up to most anvil tools. I wouldn’t think that a propane can is the upper limit for most of us. And frankly it’s over sized for most work. of go old school, my day job runs a pro forge (think propane tank with two 1/2” T burners) wile my “hobby” is ran with side blast charcoal and coal forges. Life is about compromise.

It’s a Chinese trick and the reason ihop adds pancake batter to their omelets. chinese cooking demystified on YouTube has a nice video about it. I have always added a bit of water to mine but if you over cook them then the water seals out and they get tough. A quarter tsp per egg works better

Cd3wd, sorry fat fingers, jerry

Starch is the secret your looking for Jerry. I have a few descendent I’d like to add to that grave Slag. so I wonder if you hot shoe an alien like you do a devil?