Charles R. Stevens

If you just need low heat like that a couple of heating pads would do.

You still need fuel, generally about 1/3 of the wood to be pyrolysed must be fed into the fire box, assuming your burning the exaust gasses. Commercially they generally use natural gas, but with the amount of construction scrap and papers available I see no reason to.

Yep. And it’s easier to zip two peices of 6” stove pipe together and mate them to 12” square than fins a 12” round elbow

Steve’s forge is a thing of beauty. Last I saw it he has an adapter tuyere to make long fires for heat treating sword blades and a 3’ hunk of rail on the table with built in measuring marks and a small divot for blade straitening. he has a fine small work space for making pattern welded blades of all kinds. Packaged in a space that can’t be more than 8x12 My forge is also 30x60 but unlike Steve’s it’s a cart. you might consider raising the transition so to make it easer to get large bulky grills and scrolls in the fire. You can actually go square right threw the window opening. That would make the transition easier and then simply go round up the other side past the roof.

Got ya, so if you combine Steve’s suggestion with a back wall or take his dementions and make it the back better) wall you should move smoke out. Smoke likes walls what you have is essentially a traveling forge hearth. Do you have 4” between the back of the hearth and the fire pot?

What one is building is essentially a zero clearance fire place so none of what your doing is crazy or particularly difficult. As suggested the smoke didn’t care if it’s a square or round flue (or any other shape with in reason) how big is your forge hearth and we’re is the fire pot situated in the footprint? A 30” hearth with a standard fire pot would have plenty of room for a side draft hood.

I like the indirect kiln myself. More work on the front side but I think it’s easier on the backside and generally makes a high quality product.

I bet that would work on “stray” children too ;-)

I find 6” wide to be to wide for the trench, 4” is more effecent for me.

120# 4” wide farriers pattern, 75#, 4” farriers pattern, 30#, 3” horn and heal cut off, 1-1/2” rail anvil. 12” some one can run the weight. I also use a 10# sledge I also have a track anvil I use in coke shoeing, perhaps I will take pictures if you like

You can do almost anything thing with just a hammer and anvil. The nail set makes things just a bit easier.

Yep, I caught all kinds of hell for using the weaver stance. The weaver stance as developed to reduce your profile and works well for cross dominant. The standard law enforcement stance is designed for body armor. If you are cross dominant and wear armor, they make sleeves and side plates that y’all. This closes the armpit gap. for those who aren’t in the know, carrying a fire arm is an awesome responsibility, and is a perishable skill. If you chose to carry you must be in the right place mentally, emotionally, skill wise and legally. Set a positive example, don’t be “that guy”.

Other than the fact that she is a Farrier’s anvil, I can’t tell you much. I am sure some one will be along soon that can help. untie then, I will bend the knee and ring the anvil for you and yours.

You wouldn’t be dyslexic, buy chance? Dyslexics usually don’t have a dominant eye. I myself have a lazy eye (my right) thus I am strongly cross dominant.

Nope, my head is lumpy enugh that a few more won’t even show…

Go to town, you won’t hurt her even upsetting 1” spikes

Depends on the vise. A leg or blacksmiths vise will be fine, as they are designed for that. A machinists vise will not live long.

Remember to let the bricks dry thoroughly, exploding bricks suck.

I have a set of 3# hammers for forging sucker rod, lol. One is a big radius cross pein, the second is a like radius cross pein and the third is round. They all are simple bald rounds ground from double jacks. They do an excellent job of drowning out large diameter sucker rod over the horn. I use the largest diameter for bics. Forging the coller down to 1” is the biggest pain. Forgot and cold hardiest I actually use the treaded end on the medium size stock (1” square) forging the transition on the rod end down square is easier than the flange and the treads just grind off when you sharpen it. I just let it fan out and then grind them much like an axe.

So as a farrier I have some specific ideas as to hammer handles. Flat sided as Jerry’s, small enough that your index finger almost to just touches your palm and long enough that when you cup the head in your hand the end of the handle reaches the inside of your elbow. so for the handle width, that is 1x1-1/4”. Round the front and back. as to grip, use your handle, don’t get in the habit of choking up. Yea I know all the cool kids choke up! Your pinky is over half your grip, use it wile the rest of your fingers progreso my relax. Learn the ergonomics of using a hammer, a 2# hammer can move a lot of metal if you raise the hammer fully over your head and aim for the foot of your anvil. as to hammer weight, I use a 2# most in my day job but my hammers range from 1-1/2 to 4#. Tho don’t really forge much with the 4#. I do have a 4# with a 30” handle for the wife to strike.

Wait, what? Your not supposed to drink it?!

Tripods work well for that. I like to build them with a base 2/3 of the big for the anvil.

Large shaft puller? If you have a turned shaft and the pully/flywheel have 2 or 3 equally bolt holes that’s what they are designed for. sorry old mechanic. I have rebuilt the transfer case and rear differential as well as replaced the steadying wheel on my Samurai this summer. The old Bering puller set has had a work out! speaking of automotive. I have used the freezer and oven trick more than once.

Making them from a castable refractory like kastoliite is the best choice. Old school furnace liners were made from clay, sand and water glass. Some added charcoal to the mix to provide insulation. best bet is to just order K26 bricks and be done with it.

TP’s short hand comes from herding bits for to many years… radiation from the old school CRT’s may have had an effect!