Charles R. Stevens

Unfortunately the d3wd project hasn’t reloaded all of wilders collection of manuals or I would link you to the manual

They may have bitten off more than they can chew…

I have seen an old battery manual that subjected casting the plates in wooden molds. I have myself cast lead in the rabbit on hard wood flooring for radiator repair. as aluminum can be cut with woodworking tools, carving intel of casting would be best. A trick with lead is you can heat it enough to melt the metal next to it, so repaired can be made with simple molds and either a melting spoon or a torch and stick filler. gloves, respirator etc are recommended. Lead poisoning sucks

If asking saves you a bit of anxiety, your more than welcome.

High temp paint for the ends above the ports and the top were the burner goes. Engine paint would work for the rest. But as a can will do it, I would say just use that. It is sold as BQ paint as well as automotive exhaust paint you can find it at either Wally World or an automotive parts store.

Done…

I start the initial curve on shoes simply by bracing the tongs against my leg supporting on end of the bar wile the other end is supported on the anvil. Rounding hammer applied to the middle to start the curve. closing the 90 is easy enough by placing one end on the anvil face and striking the other end wile griping the center with tongs. The branches for front shoes can be bent buy placing the toe on the anvil and striking the end (heal) rear shoes are not as easy but doable by bending the shoe so one can access the heal. the same tricks have been used for mallinia,

He is 26 going on 15, lol. Hard worker if one can keep his clean!

Not much for the deep cold either! any were we go is going to call for a troglodyte like existence, radiation being a thing. But as governments have been planning wars of resource accusation for decades Musk isn’t so dumb. Lots of exploitable resources and little if any government oversight of world. Not to mention the tax benifits.

1999 was a very bad year for moon bases! Tho flying cars are almost a thing.

Stone Age savages…. not.

TW, what’s your address? I am in possession in a slightly used 26 year old Step son…. I won’t even ship him COD! required disclaimers, absolutely no returns on defective merchandise!

A bick for the hardy hole would be much easier, and large curves are easy to turn without a horn

Learn something new every day, TP.

Iron man, that’s because they are believed to have arrived over 20,000 years ago…

One of the largest Viking era anvils was found in Novgrod, and weighs about 30#. Let that sink in. Some of the most fearsome raiders in history were armed Weapons forged on anvils smaller than yours. Go forth and forge beautiful things the “perfect” sized anvil for you will find you when it’s time. until then build a JABOD forge and mount your anvil.

Common wisdom is that the native/first nations people were on the cusp of the Bronze Age (copper, silver, gold and platinum) and the Greenlanders were in effect driven off by the First Nations population of Nova Scotia. So tho early trading was was possible no evidence of trading trading has come to light. This is not to say that it didn’t happen but that evidence hasn’t been found. cupple that with a few hundred years of propaganda from the “winners” (they say that they write the history books) evidence may well be lost history, buried under hundreds of years of alien iron artifacts. Face it, the French, Spanish and English immigrates as well as natives and African forced immigrants get almost all the press, wile we hear almost nothing about Asian and middle eastern and others. 500 years of Western Europeans writing the history books. might take another 1/2 a millennia to find any evidence of pre contact non Nordic iron working.

As I said, 100-150# is usually considered a good working size. If you are doing big ornamental gates 200-250# is good, if you are working on old steam engines or anchors 500# + (and 4 of your buddies with double handled sledges). That said, a Nordic smith, a Roman smith, or any other Iron Age smith would be proud of such a large, high quality and high tech anvil (horns were expediently rare and the “London pattern” is only about 200 years as the “standard”, tho some places prefer the double horn and then the Far East they usually don’t use horns.) like you have. The JABOD forge is a good, low cost start, I have burnt up steel (and hard fire brick) in one, so it gets plenty hot. otherwise read the “forges 101” and “ burners 101” threads. Mike and Frosty can show you how to build a gasser for less than $200 that will out perform all but the most expensive commercial forges. Not to mention safer to operate, as most cheep forges use ceramic wool without rigidizer and unless you want risk lung cancer for you and your closest it would be a required upgrade.

100# is generally considered a decent size, but honestly unless your forging gate railings or other heavy work on a daily basis a 50# anvil with a 1-1/2 to 2# hammer will make a lot of “S” hooks, chisels, knives, roses and such. Don’t under estimate the little anvil. My daily driver is a 75# terriers pattern and she has handled 1” spring stock and turns draft shoes out of 1x3/8” and 1-1/2x1/2” stock. The shop anvil is 120# but I have a 1’ rail anvil, and an old cast iron with 1/4” steel plate that had a broken heel. I cut off the rest of the heel and the poorly cast horn. It’s fun to turn shoes on to prove you don’t need a horn. A bolster plate is needed to finish the nail holes but those have been around a lot longer than horns I am sure. Order heating the anvil helps, especially in the winter but you learn to hold the stock off the anvil and use the hammer to drive it down.

Jock (RIP) over at anvilfire had a lot of sketches of home built anvils from heavy plate. One in particular would work well for the stock you have. He didn’t like his page linked to, so I. Hose to respect that. I hope his page is still up for posterities sake

As you will find you do 90% of your forging over a sweet square of real estate, you may find you have enugh room for a couple of different fullers.

I have seen some of the most toxic relationships meraculacly cured but removing the domestic relationship from the picture. I have a few friends who are friends with their exes as this far better parents for it. Knee bent, anvil rung for you and yours

Yep, more is better.

First blush I would say stone mason. Looks like some kind of brushing tool

That is just outstanding! Their comes a point where they all look your grand kids. Makes the heart warm.