Sask Mark

Tim, my thoughts are with you and your Mom.

I won't be able to make it to my shop to take additional pictures before the weekend, so hopefully these pictures can clarify things a little: Thanks for your input Mr. Turley.

If I recall correctly, Brian Brazeal recommends putting a slight chamfer on new hardy holes.

Thanks Jacques, I also have a couple of books that shows what each attachment does and how it goes together. They are in the case under the bottom of the milling attachment holder. I have never used a metal lathe before so I thought I would start small and inexpensive to get the principles down before I upgrade to a larger, more capable lathe.

I love my 280 pound Brooks. You got yourself a nice one there! Congratulations.

Mr. Turley, is there any features in particular that you would like to see? I have looked at the box closely and cannot see any stampings.

I finally took a very small plunge into the world of machining. I picked up this Unimat DB200 lathe with a nice set of extras this weekend.

I picked up a couple more since last Thursday. The 1st is a 1921 38 pound Fisher - in nice condition: The 2nd is a post 1910 152 pound Peter Wright Farrier. It's in rougher shape so I think I will give it some rehab with a welder. I bought the Peter Wright from an older Austrian gentleman. He was a 2nd year apprentice blacksmith when he lived near Graz. He quit his apprenticeship when he emigrated to Canada. He told me a few stories of how the master trained them to strike with hammer patterns etc. He always intended on getting back into smithing, but now he believes that he is too old to start again. He asked if he can watch me smith. The next time I make it out to my shop I will bring him along. I figure he can probably teach me WAY more than I can teach him. Plus I'm sure it will put a big smile on his face.

Here's my 170 pound vise:

My big vise looks like a generic English vise with the deep leg chamfering and the screw box similar to the Peter Wright. I can post pictures tonight but, as Thomas has stated before, there were many vise makers and many of those makers never marked their vises, so I doubt it is possible to positively identify the maker. It can't hurt to try though. Pics to follow tonight...

I would like to provide you more information on my vise that would help you with your theory Mr. Turley, but my vise is made up of components from at least 2 separate vises. The screw box and screw appear to be Peter Wright, but the rest of the components I believe are from a Buckworth vise. My 7.5" vise has a screw box very similar to my Peter Wright, but I can't find any stampings on it to verify the manufacturer.

Very nice! It seems to really flow and the surface finish suits the piece well.

Utaholdiron, I think it IS a coat of arms.

Good to hear Mr. Soule. I hope for more good news to come.

Here is the stamping on my Peter Wright vise if it helps at all:

Thanks Tom. My plan is to eventually get a 'Grinder in a Box' that Monstermetal speaks highly of, and I figure one of these motors will work nicely.

Sorry Mick. My sincere apologies for mixing up your name.

Thank-you very much for the explanation for your incredible work Max. It really inspires me to see what is possible with the right talent. I have just purchased a Unimat lathe with the plan of turning my own pattern welded rings. They will surely be nowhere the quality of yours, but we all have to start somewhere. I have been wondering how to make the silver liner. Your explanation is very clear and sounds relatively simple compared to how I was envisioning it. I was thinking of silver soldering the inside surface of the ring then turning it to size.

3 Baldor 2 horsepower single phase 120/240 volt 1725 rpm farm duty electric motors for $100. They were out of a carwash that upgraded pumps and required larger motors. I know the guy that did the changeout and he told me the motors are in good shape.

Very powerful message and nice work Harold. I hope it fetches a good price at auction. Best of luck to your wife and yourself.

When you say the serial number is on the 'horn side', is it on the side of the body of the anvil? The reason I ask is HB's usually had the serial number stamped on the left side of the front foot and the weight (in pounds) was usally stamped on the side below the logo. I have never heard of a Hay Budden with the serial number on the side of the body (I'm not saying that it never happened, just that I've never heard of it). Additionally, where on the base is the '22' located?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Very-old-ANVIL-/120782132125?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1f2d139d#ht_500wt_1413

Winterbear, does it have a serail number stamped on the front of the foot? If so, which side? Additionally, does it have a weight stamp on the front of the foot or on the side? It looks like it might be a Trenton or Arm and Hammer that was made for a hardware chain or other customer.

I have done the same as Mike Tanner (yeasteryearforge) with my large anvils. Placing some old spare tires on the ground can act as an additional cusion as it falls off the truck. Once it is on the ground, if you don't have a hand truck you can usually 'walk' it where it needs to go until you need it hoisted onto a stand.

Good points Mr. Turley. They still use coke in the forges at the Calgary Stampede farrier competitions. The school supplies the Kohlswa anvils and forges to the competitors. When I watched the competition about 5 years ago, all competitors had to use the supplied anvils and coke forges. There is also blacksmith courses offered at NAIT in Edmonton and farrier courses offered in Vermillion.