robert hanford Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I have a brand new anvil-- any suggestions as to dressing the hardie hole? I've been filing away but am making little progress. any suggestions appreciated! Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I don't understand why you would want to do that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 When a friend of mine repaired a wallered out hardy hole he had a small belt grinder that fit inside the hole that he dressed his with. But as above "if it ain't broke---don't fix it!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 The possible jokes are tempting.... Seriously though, a picture or two would help. Most likely people will advise to use it as is unless it is causing a serious problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 If I recall correctly, Brian Brazeal recommends putting a slight chamfer on new hardy holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 It depends. Is it for a formal affair or just casual? JK How badly is the hardie hole out of square and it is unusable? If your hardie tools wobble around too much you may want to think about making some shims to tighten them up or you can forge some new hardie tools that fit. If it is too small for your current tools, you can either make new tools , or forge your old tools to fit. Either way, you get to make new tools! Mark <>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Many hardy holes come sharp from the factory, this is vary prone to chipping. I personally like a 1/4" radius on the edges of a hardy hole. I straiten work over the hardy and work right around the hole often. Sharp edges for my preference are a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 So you going to tell him how *you* do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 An excellent book that helps me in smithery is "The Blacksmith's Craft" from COSIRA, London, England. I quote from page 4: "It is a good plan to chamfer the edges of the square hole so that the hardy sits tight to the anvil face; this is also a convenience when using the hole for setting slightly curved bars." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-ski Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I also had heard that you do not want sharp edges on hardy hole. So I put a slight bevel on the edges of the hardy hole when I got my new anvil. I used a Foredom (rotating shaft) tool and a carbide bit. Went very, very slowly (the bit was turning super fast, but I took my time) and used a gentle touch. Took a while, but I was satisfied with the outcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 So you going to tell him how *you* do it? I have never ground the radius into a anvil, so I wont recommend a way to do it. But I have used a number of anvils with factory sharp hardys and anvils with radius-ed edges. I tend to just mar up my work with sharp corners on a hardy hole so greatly prefer a smooth one. If I find myself in the need for sharp corners I have a number of bolster plates I can use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRunals Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 It's really quite simple, you're trying to remove enough material so that it won't chip out on you. If you're also using your hardie hole to straighten things then increase the radius of the edges. I used good sharp files on my new anvil. A dremel tool or something similar works fine too, if you're careful and controlled an angle grinder would work as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awalker Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 "any suggestions as to dressing the hardie hole?" something understated, maybe in black, definitely not formal though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert hanford Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Well, it's a brand new anvil - the edges are sharp so I'm trying to radius them with a file. (so as to prevent chipping.) I thought maybe a dremel tool or some such thing would help. Filing was excruciating, maybe a good brand new file would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I'm going to stick with my original question- Why? I don't suspect you will be able to chip that area very easily.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert hanford Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 It was recommended on sites concerning putting a radius on he anvil. It made sense--,sharp edges can chip. Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert hanford Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 However, perhaps it is not a concern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I have used both files and sand paper on my anvil edges and a file around the hardy (small flat) and big pritchel (round file). What I have done, and would recommend, is to take a few minutes here and there and do a little radius work, and then work with it like that for a while. I was always afraid of setting out to do the finished job in one go. If you get carried away, it will be hard to put back what you took off. However, if you take it down a teeny bit and then work with it that way for a while, you can decide if it's good enough, or if you need a little more here or there. I still need to tweak the holes a bit... I don't like that hard, sharp machined edge. But I have slowly worked a nice graduated radius into the edges of the face. I've got it to about a 3/8" radius up front to nearly sharp at the tail end. Power tools are great, but they can get you into trouble very quick. File it, try it, file it some more until it suits you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 My anvil is dressed in the hardy, and it seems to be desirable. I used a bolster plate with rather sharp corners to make my hardies, and they drop tight in. I got a hand held belt grinder to clean up the bolster plate, it is a 1/2 inch wide belt and fits into a hole just a little larger than that. http://www.harborfreight.com/air-belt-sander-97055.html Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lakeside forge Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Brian Brazeal does dress the hardy a bit. Get some heavy grit sand paper and sand the top of the hole and round it off. BE SURE NOT TO ROUND THE BOTTOM! Steven Lakesideforge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Lakeside, that last comment does not pertain to hardy holes, avoid dressing the bottom side of the hole of a hammer or top tool. It wouldn't make much difference for the anvil hardy other than creating a bigger job than necessary. I use worn or broken belts from the belt sander to dress hardy holes and hammer eye holes. For hardy holes, tear an appropriate sized strip, and go in your hardy with a "shoe shine" motion. I do strongly suggest that you dress your hardy holes before you use them, and never use a hardy in your anvil that was not made or fitted properly in your hardy hole. Also, never punch over your hardy or pritchel holes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert hanford Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Thank you Mr. Brazeal for the excellent advice. Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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