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thicker stock means you dont need the fold. the single bow holds the blades together better than a double bow, not great for shearing but better for trimming and tidying

if the nails are not high tensile a long pipe lever and body weight should do it easily edit, the right edge of the notch should be beveled like the other end so the nail can be removed after the second bend

if they are for cleaning sheep bums you need to make dagging shears (shorter blades that close to a point). I cant show you how to make them but I can give you a few pointers on sharpening and adjusting. these are my favorite brand https://www.burgonandball.com/agriculture.php there is a video link in the news section that might be helpful

All one piece, it is folded, it gives the transition to the handle strength without being brittle, that section around the stoppers is squeezed and bent to change the set, angle and pitch of the blades so they close correctly and cut properly. most shears are a double bow with the two halves riveted at the spring end.

the square section you have pointed out as concaved is the cutting face, marks from hot cut tools here is normal wear and tear no need to touch this area. As others have pointed out the top of the horn is not used much for curving so you would only be repairing that section for looks. All in all it is a perfect working anvil. Congrats!

Morning sickness Is there something you are not telling us Frosty ?

Thanks Alan, that is the link I tried to post, I pasted the text a second time to correct my spelling, it must have grabbed another link at the same time. Sorry!

This is how I learned, model it in copper. Most stuff can be modeled in wire, tube and sheet. It only takes a short time to get a feel for it and a sixth sense kicks in and you can "see" things bend in your mind. Zero Cost Modelling of Space-Frames

Howling southerly winds and sleety rain that cuts right through you. I am a bit of a lizard and hate the cold so I am in four layers of clothing and a wool beanie every time I jump out of the warm tractor cab. Thank goodness for seat heaters, a quick shot of warmth on my back when I jump back in makes a lot of difference.

Thanks for your response Glenn and frosty. Just to be clear, I am not referring to n00bs and trolls here. The conflict I have seen that has damaged quality forums has started between very senior members with 000's of posts and/or moderators-admin , from my observation it has always started over topics that are not related to the theme of the forum. Yes, there may be 42,000 members here but I would argue that the tone and dynamic of this forum is set by a lot less than 30 posters. I am stating my opinion that this dynamic will change over time with the addition of an active section for off-topic humour and the moderation process may have to adapt along with it. I am also stating that there a a few individuals that are capable of the most amazing project posts I have ever seen but their personal internal filters have a small conniption every so often. This is a dilemma, remove the temptation, remove the individual or manage their behavior at a personal level so they can stay on the forum. Please dont feel obliged to answer, I just feel that this is a significant change that should not be taken too lightly by the admin team.

From my observation of other forums that have had a humour section, it is not differences in language that is the problem. it is the members lack of ability to stay within the boundaries of the forums posting guidelines when faced with no category or topic restrictions. I dont understand why normally intelligent and knowledgeable people feel the need to cut and paste material that is clearly not appropriate and get themselves banned. It seems to work OK for about 12 months then falls in a heap. there may be a format out there that works, i have not seen one yet.

I think you are being a bit picky Aus, a tiny hammer mark like that shouldn't put you off. I read on a blacksmiths forum called I-forge something or other that a gentle peen around the dent will clean the surface up nicely.

​I wouldn't say it is sharpened, more like reshaped, it is a fat wedge with a rounded edge it is a stamped groove rather than a cut. It gives the diamond a cleaner crisper look. When watching a video like this it pays to keep in mind that it is a quick and dirty demo of the technique, not detailed instruction of how it should be done.

good to see you back Aus. Gary Huston has a simple demo on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueFzWuR5HMQ

​Don't chuck it out Joel, there is no such thing as a small crack in cast, it always looks bad. Cast fusion repair work (not patching/brazing) always looks severe when it is done, it is best it you dont hang around to watch and see how many pieces it ends up in and how much metal is removed to chase the cracks and get back to uncontaminated material. Particularly with items exposed to water and burning, sometimes I have to jig and sculpt complete new sections with the oxy and cast filler rod. You might have a heart attack if you see it at this stage of repair. Usually takes me 4-6 hours work over 3 days to a week to get something like this prepped, welded and finished, a full time professional with serious skillz and motivation would do it far quicker. To copy and fabricate in steel would take me 20 minutes to find the steel and mark out the job and 40 minutes to cut, forge and weld (including waternecks ) and U can take it with you that afternoon. There is a big price difference between the two options, there is an even bigger price difference if the cast has been previously brazed. Bear in mind a fabricator not used to replicating old gear will take a lot longer to get his/her head around it all. the fundamental detail you are missing is the science-ey bit of water cooling. You need to reflect as much heat as you can into the fire to keep its core temperature up, dragging heat away with a bulky tuyere will make the combustion reaction cooler and you will lose some of the best heat producing chemical reactions if you drop below a critical temperature. that means the exposed frontal area should be small and heat reflective if possible. The tuyere walls/front exposed to the highest temperature need to have good thermal conductivity and the correct thickness so that heat that get passed the reflective shield will be drawn into the water jacket rapidly and not stored close to the hottest areas where it can continue to build more heat. Lastly the water, this is the important bit, it takes an extreme amount of energy to convert a liquid into a gas so the temperature of the water will not exceed 100 degrees Celsius while this is happening unless you pressurize the system or all the water is steam. this means the liquid water inside of the water jacket is always at or below 100 no matter how hot the fire on the other side is, this is why it needs to circulate, to dump that absorbed energy and remain (mostly) a cold liquid. that's more than 2 cents worth i know. But hey, it just rained here for the first time in 10 months and I am in a good mood!

Don't worry Glenn, Some of us are just naturally born clumsy talented. I can do that reaching for a coffee cup at 5am with my eyes closed. Years of practice honing my skills.

Hi Joel, The most practical solution, if you are going to use the forge, would be to fabricate a replacement out of steel pipe. It doesn't need to be an exact copy it just needs to function the same way. Find a length of pipe with roughly 5mm wall thickness that matches the inside diameter, your fabricator should have some 12mm plate to cap the end that is in the fire then sleeve it with some 3mm wall thickness pipe. Should be good for minimum of 10 years provided that you plumb it so it can thermosyphon correctly. Put the cast tuyere on the shelf and find someone to tackle the job later.

Hi Aus, Missing your input, hope you are back on soon!

if the 2 hp motor stalls on the first stage you can back the unloader pressure setting off. I had a quick look on the web for some specs, the first one i come across was set to 650 PSI with a range of 400 to 900. then set your relief valve so it doesn't stall on the second stage. Don't be scared to load it up, electric motors have heaps of torque provided they dont overheat, that's not likely in this situation cos it is not continuously fully loaded. two stage pumps are designed to go on gas motors that have almost no torque as the revs slump. a 5 HP electric motor could probably comfortably drive a 16gpm/3gpm pump to max pressure

Hi, Do you know what the high pressure flow is? if it is under 2gpm on the hi pressure stage you may get away with 2hp, over 3gpm I would suggest that 3 - 3.5Hp would be closer to the mark (provided you are not getting a significant voltage drop in some light duty electrical cable). Is the low to high pressure unloader valve pressure fixed or can it be adjusted? what pressure is the unloader valve preset to from the factory? for pressing hot metal IMO a pump with a 1.8 gpm second stage and a 3000 PSI max pressure rating would be more suitable.

I dont know it it interests you, but if you are in the casting game you might run across someone who sells an amal injector style burner

empty shop = empty mind

I use a heavy preheat 2 piece cutting tip for all my heating and a medium preheat for most cutting. Unless you are preheating a really big job that's about all you need. http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com.au/wp-content/uploads/6290-nff-nx-ALTFUEL.pdf gearing up for 3 inch+ cutting is overkill unless someone is paying for your oxy bottles.

This was the first decent quality cordless tool I owned. A half inch impact wrench. It completely changed my mindset to how I work and how I think about work efficiency, it made me realize there was a lot of wasted time, energy, effort and capital in how I worked. I have turned into a quick and nimble "do more with less" kinda person rather than throw everything including the kitchen sink onboard, just in case I needed it.

Yep, another brain fade. I will describe your photos to a friend when I see him next. It will be at least three weeks before we catch up, I am flat out with the grain harvest at the moment. He cant see much but he's pretty good on model numbers and what parts fit which machines for English imported stuff from the early 1900's.