Jump to content
I Forge Iron

yahoo2

Members
  • Posts

    340
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by yahoo2

  1. there is a technique to centering a 4 jaw chuck, it is not just random guesswork. I line one jaw up with the dial gauge (i find it easiest to have it horizontal so I can work across the lathe with the chuck key without moving the head), read or zero the dial then spin the head 180 read the dial and calculate how far the piece needs to move on that axis. You should know how far a quarter turn of the chuck key moves the piece and you can also watch the dial gauge close in on the target number. repeat the process with the other axis. from there it is just tweak and tighten to get the last couple of thou.
  2. you dont sound convinced Aus. just grind the point off an old chisel and round the corners a little. that will get you started. if you need some inspiration Mark Aspery has a short video on youtube called Blacksmithing: punching and drifting theory. it might not stop the wheel stud breaking but I'm confident it will work on the bolt
  3. I reckon you would benefit from trying a slot punch. Stretching a hole with a drift to enlarge it is not going to work all that well, it really needs to be squared up and peined like any other drawing out technique. Starting with a slot will get you closer to the end point with a lot less metal working. It is also possible to keep the original profile by slotting over the bottom half of a swage tool the same shape. slotting from edge to edge on a square bar and opening it out looks pretty cool.
  4. Are U using a slot punch to start the hole or a round one?
  5. A hammered flat surface is really a series of extremely shallow overlapping divots. that is where you want to be at. I would suggest trialing your hammer on the anvil surface with a piece of softwood, you need to see how accurate you need to be with the angle of the hammer face to avoid hammer marks. A hammer face that is completely flat is impossible to use even with a radius-ed edge.
  6. If you want to do a long reply Ausfire, write it in notepad or similar software, save it and cut and paste it in to the box. something needs to be in the reply box before the paste option appears, so I hit the space bar a couple of times, right click the mouse and paste it in. sometimes it will still not work but at least the content is saved.
  7. the trick is that the steel needs to be seasoned, this forms a bonded polymerized coating on the steel that is pretty indestructible and seals the surface. However it needs to be done correctly. Sheryl Canter wrote a blog post back in 2010 called "Chemistry of cast iron seasoning a science based how to" I'm sure you can find it with a search engine. I use her technique but substitute grapeseed oil, it has a slightly lower iodine value than food grade flaxseed oil, only because I have trouble finding a shop that stocks it. The first coat is the most important if it is not wiped completely dry after the first oiling it will not bond when you cook it on. I also stop at 3-4 coats.
  8. I have been wondering if the natural carnauba wax with the brown tint that feast-watson make would be a comparable replacement for trewax for Aussies. it is in the big hardware stores (according to the interweb) next time I make it to civilization I might pick up a tin and try it. It wont go to waste cos I need some for some timber work I am doing.
  9. Hi Lee, I would be worried about the cramping sensation, if it turns out that it is tissue inflammation putting pressure on your median nerve through your carpel tunnel that is causing it, then that is a reasonably severe symptom, it can take quite a while to recover. Some pretty good advice from the guys. I can vouch for diet being a problem, I had to cut down my sugars, starches and booze and increase my veggie's fish spices fermented foods etc. Once the vitamin B6 levels got back up in my blood tests I have been a lot better. I am still struggling with reducing caffeine. A site like eorthopod.com might help to understand what is inside a hand, they are pretty complex little suckers!
  10. Contrived is putting it mildly Frosty, some of the stuff that trickles down here from all over the world is so badly faked it is laughable. I saw a fire fighting truck drive over a couple of burning sticks with a pair of clowns inside the cab with the narration claiming they were trapped in an inferno. The editing manufactured a situation that was never there. I am so annoyed I am writing to the executive producer to spell out what I think his future should entail. We had a brand new restaurant reality show totally bomb here, less that 415,000 viewers country wide for the second episode. Replaced with "cats make you laugh out loud" and it rated 1.56 million. Ha-ha-ha cough cough hack wheeze! I would say the mastercrafts green wood craft and thatching episodes would be some of the best TV I have seen. Showing process,detail, constructive guidance and skill beats emotional fluff with no context every time.
  11. I buy old compressors on occasion most of them have a leaking check valve between the tank and the compressor cylinders. Have you tried conscripting a volunteer with exceptional hearing?
  12. Im with Alan and smoggy. try a M4 first to check the size, to see if it fits and screws in, the standard thread pitch on them is 0.7mm
  13. PERCEPTION TRUMPS REALITY that is good! I am hanging that one on the wall in the office as a sobering reminder
  14. I have cut a few on the lathe. It is not a job for the impatient. the cutting tools for a square thread are a custom ground job. strictly DIY and the boring bar has to be stiff or the chatter and snapped cutting tips drive me insane. I have ten or so vices stacked in the shed waiting for an enthusiasm infection to strike.
  15. it will take 11 tanks of the biggest oxy cylinder I can get to chew through a 45kg cylinder of propane. you might consider a smaller propane tank.
  16. rough rule of thumb the cheaper modern ground engaging tools for agriculture are mostly boron steel, the heavy duty stuff is a wear resistant alloy that is hard faced. there is a chance that it is 1080 if it is manufactured in india perhaps, most of the stuff I see is south american and they are the kings of boron steel manufacture.
  17. I remember seeing a doco about the year leading up to the Donora Death Fog in 1948. Enveloped the town for 5 days laden with fumes and smoke from the zinc smelters 7000+ hospitalized and with lung damage, it was the beginnings of the clean air act. these days the worry is the combination of oxidized gasses called secondary organic aerosols and super fine particulate matter (soot). these two given a hour or so will form sticky balls of chemical cocktails that when breathed in will jump across into our bloodstream extremely rapidly. this is the reason there are regulations to try and lower diesel particulates and things like vaporizing solvents in urban areas that are prone to smog.
  18. http://www.rimexmetals.com.au/PDF_data_sheets/ChemicallyColouredStainlessSteel.pdf
  19. there is a lot of detail work that can be done cold or with a spot heat. So a gas saver on the oxy propane and a comfy stool is ideal. working like this saves time and money. a tool to hold dies only needs to be a chunky bit of mild steel and the dies themselves can be cheap disposable spring steel round. John Crouchet is the go to person for some inspiration.
  20. It seems I cant read when there are pictures to look at. I guess I shouldn't be annoyed when it happens to me. I worked on one earlier this year and got a lecture on what bits are interchangeable between models I dont recall where the rings came from they just appeared on my bench with a note as if by magic one weekend. I have had problems with ford-new holland motors where they upgrade the motor specs over a ten year model run of a machine and then clear out their motor warehouse at the end and the last machines that are built have the old motor hardware and no documentation. So I buy parts, wrong conrod, wrong piston, wrong camshaft, wrong timing gear. It is very frustrating. I hope lister dont do the same thing. I see a few 2 cylinder versions with the same rocker cover design on welders and air seeder blowers but I have never had one to pieces so I have no details in my repair book.
  21. I recognize the first one, its a z1 Bamford built around 1950. I think the company was henry bamford and sons?? You should be able to find someone with a parts book fairly easily. the lister has me stumped, looks like one of the H series motors HL4 maybe?? edit it looks like the tag says ST4
  22. If you are striving for an authentic look, there should be a second shorter lever attached to the top lung of the bellows with a small counterweight hanging from it. In a working forge it controls the air flow. I am hopeless, just seeing a photo of the block of wood has perked my interest.
  23. In ceramics, dolomite can be classed as refractory or flux at very similar temperatures depending on the form it is in at that point and path to get there. ie ramping of the heat, O2 levels in the kiln, calcination, time. As Niel says pre-heated steel and sprinkling it on in a reducing fire will get the best combination of gassing co2 and scavenging impurities and time before it starts to get that glassy tacky toffee like stickiness. Iron oxide is also classed as refractory or flux depending on the molecular form. So at a lowish welding temperature there can be an insulating layer between the metal surfaces or a catalyst that assists the start of metal bonding depending on what form it is in at the time.
  24. I just found an old brochure that lists the average size of work for the compact 200 lb as 3 inch. Not sure how to interpret that!
  25. yay My reply box has returned! Nice find Daniel. Do you have any idea how much adjustment you will have between the dies for hitting larger pieces? I would be interested if someone knows, I have not seen a compact Bradley in the flesh. Would it be suitable for a set of dies that are multistation? it looks like it would handle off-centre striking quite easily.
×
×
  • Create New...