Scratch

Nice job! Were you trying to cook up some lunch in that second pic?

Keep us posted on how it works. I'm interested in seeing how it works as a brake press...

Well... it's a hydraulic bottle jack so yes I can put 1/2 a pump on it and it'll roll a tiny bit tighter, but it's not an "exact" type procedure. On the project that I use it for all the time, I have to make a 12.75" ring, out of 3/16" X 1/2" flat bar. I just get it between 12-13" inches and do the final fitting as I cut and weld it together.

I wouldn't roll the 1 inch ones then weld them together... I think distortion will rear it's ugly head. Using a ring roller is the way to go. I don't know if you're interested in making one but I roll alot of 3/16" rings, so I made my own. I've rolled 1/2" X 2" solid before easily. This is what mine looked like right after I finished it, caster wheels and bottle jack from Northern tools. The rest was all scrap parts. If I had to do it over again... I'd probably buy that 89.00 one Jimbob posted though.

I thought those were called cube twists? Real cool by the way...

In that first pic, with the dented box... I don't know if I'd blame the seller for that. It looks like it was probably damaged in shipping. I'd maybe contact them. Is it possible that the damage caused by shipping could have caused the leak? Seems like a fairly small dent so I'm not sure, but I didn't open it and see how it was laid out.

Hi, and welcome, from not so sunny Eastern Wisconsin. I can see Minnesota from my window and although I did see some sun yesterday... I noticed you didn't say "sunny and warm Minnesota" ... good call. Welcome to the site.:D

I bought some tool steel from Industrial Supply Company, they might have it. If so, it's probably on their site: Industrial Supply Equipment from MSC Industrial Supply

I "try" to charge 50 per hour plus materials. Depending on if it needs it, I'll charge an extra shop charge for gas, flap disks, charcoal or gas,etc...

Great piece!

I used to do little circles when welding MIG, but I heard sometime last year from a welding instructor, that when doing that, you can get a little contamination when the wire comes back around the circle into the same location that it's already been in, and the puddle had started to cool. He suggested a "constant forward C shaped zig zag pattern" instead of the circular pattern. That way the contaminated wire will never be in the same spot twice. It made sense to me so I started doing it. I can honestly say after about a year of it, I like the beads better than the circular pattern I use to do. He did say that it didn't make a huge difference doing it that way, and you can still get a very strong joint, but hey... free dummy...

Cold rolled steel is more exact measurements than hot rolled also. For example closer to a true 1/4" size than hot rolled. Also Cold rolled steel is a harder steel. I got a chance to test this about a month ago. I was making a bunch of sunflowers and the stems were 3/8" square, about 36" long. I would twist them cold about 5 times, then heat up a local area and back twist them in random spots. I accidentaly cut a length of cold rolled steel and could barely do the cold twist more than 1 revolution. I could have easily cold twisted the hot rolled stock at least 10 times. Once it's in the forge though... it still works fine but is a little more expensive and rusts a little faster.

How would you adjust the height of your post vise? Doesn't the leg decide how high it is? Mines at about 40" and other than cutting the leg, don't see how I would shorten it. I guess burying it would be an option if it was planned to be permanent... I'm guessing that's what you're all talking about right. Mines on a cement floor so I don't have that option. I can see wanting another one, more towards anvil height though for swinging a hammer.

TOO LATE! I've already sent the check.

I'll take one of each sets please... let me know where to pick them up at.

Is that "T" welded to the firepot? I'm by far no expert... but shouldn't it be turned over...? I would think you'd get the best airflow with it curved upwards.... Am I missing something here?

I won't claim to be any type of expert but I do use my drill press alot. I drill alot of large holes, 3/4"-1" in mild steel, and alot of 3/8" and 1/2" holes in hardened steel. I use the cobalt bits for the hardened steel and they work great. They'll also work great in mild steel but are a little more expensive than non-cobalt. I'd say if you don't plan on drilling into alot of hardened, just go buy a quality set of steel bits and if you need to drill through hardened for something, just go buy the size you need then. Otherwise, go buy a full set of cobalt bits and you wont have to worry. Also, when drilling steel, use a low speed. I use mine only for steel and have never changed the speed off of it's lowest 150 RPM speed and it cuts great! I'm not sure but when I was buying those larger bits, I had the Grainger guy call the manufacturer and they suggested the 135 degree bits I think. Again... no expert, but I've drilled alot of holes in my 1 hp Westward drill press.

Thanks Doug and Glenn... I'll put that one on the to do list!

Is there a BP on the cube twist? Maybe I missed it. I like the look alot and want to try it.

Welcome to the site!

I can't wait to see what this is...!

Great job! It barely even looks like a rusty 8" pipe now... I love the heat circles on the shell.

Awesome! I've seen some really nice knives on this site, but I think this is the first knife I've seen that really makes me want to try knifemaking. I love the beefy ruggedness of it... great job!

Does anybody use the oxy/gasoline combo for heating? Or is that not as effective for heating, just cutting?

I think this might be what your looking for...? You can hook a chain onto it and a foot pedal onto that.