ciladog

You measure the distance around the pulleys with a tape measure to get the length. Bring the spring loaded wheel down under tension. Simple enough. I have one of those. The belt is 1 X 42 and lots of places sell them. You are missing a wheel but I almost never use it. It is for sanding inside a hole. Here are some pics of the way to set it up.

I'm sorry to inform you that you will be waiting a very long time to heat a piece of metal on a gas firepit with volcanic rock. It is a decorative pit designed to produce a visual effect and some radiant heat. You can always try it and let us know if you can get a piece of metal hot enough to forge.

Pretty funny Phil. But for someone less experienced than you (and on much smaller equipment) that when trying to forge a piece straight and the piece always bents one way or the other, this may help them understand why.

Do you use the propane and natural gas at the same time or is it either/or? If you use both, what is the advantage of that? Very nice build.

They still sell carbon paper in the big box office supplies stores. I us it to transfer paper patterns and templates.

I have done it without the carbon paper also but with the carbon paper it really stands out and I think that the three pieces of paper makes a better impression than just using one.

I was checking my hammer dies for wear and thought I would post a very short video on this shop tip. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiiT6u3Nvdw If you decide to try it on your hammer, how about posting a picture of the pattern you get. It might be interesting to see all the different results.

It's really nice work but I don't think the leaf swages will last past a leaf or two.

You may want to check this BBS. It has a fairly good explaination. http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/archive/index.php/t-96637.html

I wouldn't weld anything to that gear unless you have a way to slowely raise the entire gear up to near 1000 degrees F. If you try to preheat just part of the gear you will probably crack it. Then you would have to cool it very very slowely (lots of thermal blankets). I doubt you have something that can heat a 3' diameter gear so I would take the advice of the others and construct a base to bolt to the gear.

Are you familiar with Shopdogsam on Youtube? He has hundreds of videos on rebuilding these engines. Check him out. http://www.youtube.com/user/shopdogsam/videos?view=0

Amen. Kinda spooky when you see him pop up in an old thread.

It is really sad that we do not have these manufacturing capabilities in the USA today. Maybe someday in the future we will again.

Jumping the log is a great touch.

Just smack a piece of square bar into the jaws while supporting it in a vee-block.

Sounds like an ambitious project. The only thermocouple that can measure 2000 degrees C is a type C (0-2320 degrees C) and can be purchased for between $100-200. That is just for the thermocouple and you will still need a meter that can read a type C thermocouple. The problem is that it can not be used in the presence of oxygen at temperatures above 260 C. They use them in vacuum furnaces. You could use an infared thermometer. Extech makes one that will measure up to 2200 C at a price of about $400. Good luck.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPjVSryWC1A

I miss youngdylan's posts also. Good to see you again.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#directional-air-control-valves/=lh304r

If you wrap your H13 in HT stainless foil and put a small piece of paper in the package you can prevent the decarb. The paper chars and consumes the oxygen. The foil is pricy but if you're carfull with it it can be reused several times.

JGRAFF, The burners look pretty good but I think you ought to change some of the plumbing. I would consider changing that rubber hosing to copper. It's flexable enough that you can still adjust the burner tubes. I would not trust those barbed fittings and clamps. The air space above the forge gets really hot and I would expect the rubber hoses to soften. It maybe good for a test run but not for prolonged use.

I never know how to price blacksmith work. I try to establish an hourly rate for smith work that covers the cost of overhead and some profit. Then add in the material cost and voilà nobody is going to pay that price. So I have a problem setting prices. If it is commissioned work you can ask for what you want and hope the client agrees. But to produce work for general sale is something I never get correct. Usually, I’m selling at way below what I think it’s worth.

You are not quite correct about the ads. The person who uploads a video on to YouTube has the option to monitize or not their video if they have an AdSencse account with Google. The publisher of the video can say no ads or to allow them. When the video is linked to another site the ads are dropped and do not show up.

I bought this pneumatic belt sander at HF the other day and it was just a joke when I got it home and tried it. I made some modifications and now for the money not so bad. Enjoy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2LzMQdtyJ8&feature=youtu.be

Why would you want to throw the bowl? :)