ciladog

You just don't don't get it.

Pugman, Posting what I did was not to embarrass you but to give you a knock up side the head, wake you up. There are so many well accomplished blacksmiths, knifemakers, and artisans that are members here that deserve respect for their craft and by trying to place yourself, at your level of experience, at anywhere near theirs is an insult to them. A lot more used to post and don't anymore because as the years went on, the website became filled with people that think that if they make something out of hot metal on an anvil makes them somehow an equal and they are not. These would-be blacksmiths offer advice and contradict the advice of those who know and don't have a clue who they are talking to. Feel better about yourself? That's a childish thing to do . Can't come up with a better plan so just bring me down . I think you are projecting here. "Psychological projection or projection bias is a psychological defense mechanism where a person subconsciously denise his or her own attributes, thoughts, and emotions, which are then ascribed to the outside world, usually to other people. Thus, projection involves imagining or projecting the belief that others originate those feelings" Now I know a lot of accomplished blacksmiths, have been tought by them and I collaborate with them on projects but I will never be or think that I am their equal. There aren't enough years left in my life to get there. It's about respect and you don't get it.

Forget the hammer, submit that to the jury. Very nice

Alan, This smith started as a farrier in 1979 then became New York City, NY's blacksmith and worked their until he just retired. The work you see on his website is his personal work while he worked for NY. You can't imagine what the diversity of his work for the City was. The perspective is that he worked his entire working life moving metal. Now he can make what he sees in his minds eye. How many can say the same?

That is just too funny. :lol:

Watch this video. It is about an early screw cutting teadle lathe. It is no where near as old as yours but will explain the parts that are missing. http://video.pbs.org/video/2296983856/

I think we need to put this debate into perspective. http://www.nyblacksmith.com/index.php?p=1_2_Gallery-1 Can you figure out which work was done by a blacksmit?

Matto, That long screw that runs parallel to and below the lathe bed is a lead screw that engages with the carraige to cut threads. The headstock has two gears on it, the large one (called a bull gear) could be part of a back gear drive along with the smaller one. There would have been a small gear at the end of the spindle along with a bunch of change gears would move the carraige at different thread per inch. So I think you are missing the change gears and the bracket/linkage that attaches them to the headstock to drive the lead screw. You are also missing the back gear drive assembly.

It was a screw cutting lathe but you seem to be missing a whole lot of parts on the headstock end.

Razzputin, If I understand you correctly, you are using split ring lock washers to make your maille? If that is the case, they are most likely hardened and tempered. If you heat them up to a cherry red and let them cool down they will not be so hard to work with and you will still have the better spring steel.

BillyO, you make a good point but I think it has more to do with ego than protecting one’s livelihood. This is the third time that I remember that a thread has dealt with the topic and it always comes out the same way. There are those, for whatever their reason, need to see themselves in a certain light and I for one don’t care what they call themselves. I will decide for myself, based on their work, their history, skill, etc., whether or not they are a blacksmith. Now for the people that climbed up the ranks, served apprenticeships, worked 10, 20, 30, or 40 years at blacksmithing and made a living at it, it is all self-evident. The others just live in an alternative universe.

Well then make one that fits like a braclet on all 4 fingers and hold it in your fist.

I need to understand how you chainmaille people open and close rings since all I have is experience with jewelry. Do you expand the ring or do you twist the ring to open and close it? I have seen tools that close an expended ring but that is not the way to do it. Twisting the ring open and then twisting it closed is the easiest way.

I don't think you understand how the ring works. It's the same as using a plier in your left hand.

There is pic attached below the post. I would be happy to make them for you.

Larry is one of my legs getting longer? :wacko:

My father was a jewelry manufacturer with lots of people working in the factory. Literally millions of jump rings had to be opened and closed. This is how they did it. He had rings made for all the workers. Simple ring of brass with a round head machine screw and a nut all brazed together. If you were right-handed, you put the ring on your left first finger between the first and second knuckle and held the pliers in your right hand.

Core 20, is that the same thing as Corten? I'm not sure of the name. Could be corten.

Terrible thing smoking is but I love it. But this has to be my last year. Starting January 1, 2014, I will be charged an extra $5,000.00 for my health care policy because I am a smoker over the age of 60 according to Obamacare. One more of my free choices out the window. Next is going to penalties for occupational hazards like burning coal. Mark my words.

Colleen, I will never understand what people do to keep rust off their anvils or their tongs and the alike tools. When it comes to blacksmith tools, it just seems like a total waste of time. As soon as you start pounding on an anvil with hot metal the rust is gone. Toungs work just as well with a coat of rust on them as they do without it. It's not like your tools are buried in wet soil or stored in a drum of water. They are tools and work just as well either way. But each to their own. To some people, it's about the tool and not the work that gets done. And as I have posted before, a light coat of rust prevents further rusting. Around here they use something I think is called core 20 steel to make highway guardrails. It takes on a light coating of rust and stops oxidizing. No painting, no galvanizing, and no maintance.

Painting an anvil, the horn or the sides, is like painting the face of your hammer. If you actually us the anvil for forging the paint will burn off in short order.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RQXhaYK9YQ&playnext=1&list=PL1D5E49ECCD3CF01E&feature=results_video

I'm glad to hear that you got it all worked out. Now go turn something.

Let’s split some hairs. Actually, son_of_bluegrass, kiln dried lumber is more stable than air dried lumber because of structural changes to the vessels of the wood fiber that the heat of kiln drying causes. Once those vessels shrink from the heat, they will never go back to their pre-heat size. Hence, they will never take up as much water as they once did. What I said in my post is that kiln dried lumber is less hydroscopic than air dried lumber. I did not say that it is stabilized wood. I have more than 3,000 board feet of air dried lumber in my wood shed all air dried (red oak, white oak, ash, maple, walnut, hickory), some for more than 20 years, and when measured with a moisture meter, always between 14 and 9% (in my region of the country). The wood gets to equilibrium moisture content (EMC) point and stops drying. Depending on the relative humidity, the EMC changes a lot. This is not the case with kiln dried lumber which is more stable. Some examples with air dried lumber: At 70 degrees F and 35% relative humidity the EMC is 8% At 85 degrees and 75% rel. humidity the EMC is 14% I can’t use my air dried lumber in my architectural woodworking business because it is more prone to significant dmension changes than is 6% kiln dries lumber when placed in a climate stabilized environment like a house. I know this from 40 years of experience with lumber. But you can check all this out in the Wood Engineering Handbook put out by the U.S. Forest Products Laboratory if you think I’m blowing smoke.

Well for you it seems to work. This is not a rhetorical question. I have had several names registered for a while but never published a website. In these economical times, I am trying to decide to publish or not. I have also had an Etsy account with little or not return. Have any of you had success there?