ciladog

If you turn the jaws over and look at the teeth that are cut to match with the scroll you will see that there is a progression from one jaw to the next.

Cyanoacrylate glue (not really glue but) you may know it as crazy glue. Crazy glue that is sold in stores is full of inhibitors to extend shelf life. You are better off buying from industrial suppliers. Woodturners have been using it, since it was developed during the Vietnam War, to harden spolted wood and seal cracks. Cyanoacrylate was developed to stop bleeding on ravaged tissue like livers and kidneys. A quick spray of this stuff and the bleading stopped and coagulation begun. Who would have thought that industry would be using it as it does today.. http://www.caglue.com/

You know Jake; you are not alone in this quest. Better laid plans of mice and men. An Idea, a plan, a hope, all the effort and then, not what you thought. I think many of us have been there. I know I have. Good luck to you in your endeavors and just because you are not forging right now doesn’t mean you can’t post. I for one am interested in your life. I still think you ought to write a book.

How about telling us what kind of 'other' things he is up to?

That is par for the course. I would not hold my breath waiting. Tell your friend to order generic parts. Nothing Trozack used on his hammers is special. They can all be ordered through places like McMaster Car or anyone that sells pneumatic components.

I was watching an episode of Yukon Man on the Discovery channel last night. It was about catching fish on the Yukon River and preserving them by smoking for the winter to feed the families and the dogs. I got to thinking about Jake and how he lived the life. I too always enjoyed reading his posts. He was/is an accomplished blacksmith. Just curious.

Does anyone know?

Yes there is "Door lites".

It should be mentioned that both sides of the tongs are identical. Forge one side and then forge the other to match it. Once you place the rivet you can heat the tongs from the boss to the bits and adjust the bits for the stock you want to hold.

I wouldn't worry about your credibility on this one. There is no doubt that enormous amounts of slag get dumped at mills and it is, I guess, technically glass. But what you have in your pictures is not slag. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhJF_hTJ2Rw&playnext=1&list=PL4F6DBCC2E335585B&feature=results_video

Just one problem Daniel. I don't want to burst your bubble but slag glass does not come from the smelting of Iron or steel. It is called slag glass because it is believed that slag from smelting was added to the glass to create the streaks. Slag glass was/is made in a glassworks.

Ain't no polled sheep :lol:

Very amusing answer Phil. For limited runs > not in a single cut > it will dull a tool in a hurry > [but] carbide for "mass" production. Corian is very hard and very abrasive and chips when cut with dull tooling. I suppose you could cut, sharpen, cut, sharpen, cut, sharpen until you get the job done.

Ogmios, Any good job shop could make that part. If you can't find one near your location then try sending your pictures with some dimensions to Keith Fenner for some advice and possible costs. Here is a link to his website and Youtube channel. http://turnwrightmachineworks.com/ http://www.youtube.com/user/KEF791/videos?view=0

I can’t imagine a situation that would distort such a beefy casting on a small portable band saw. I guess it could happen. Perhaps it was a bad casting to begin with. I don’t think you will have much luck trying to straightening the frame. I would work on the tracking adjustment and see if you can get the blade to track. On those portable band saws the tracking is usually adjusted either with two opposing screws, one on the outside of the frame and one on the yoke inside the cover. By turning one screw in and one out you change the tilt of the wheel. Or it is spring loaded and there will be one adjusting screw on the outside of the frame. Here is a pdf of the schematic of the parts to the Rockwell (now called Porta-Cable) band saw. Part #84 is the tracking adjustment. If you post the serial number and model number we could see what parts are available. Or you could check online for parts. Porta saw.pdf

Here is a link to a collection of saw wrests. http://members.acmenet.net/~con12a/saw%20set%20website/wrestsawset.htm

Corian is not solid plastic. It is made from acrylic polymer (as a binder) and mostly alumina trihydrate which is mineral found in nature. Very tough stuff and needs to be cut with carbide tooling. I worked with if for years back in the day.

I have a punch die for the bottom, that is what I started with. But I can't see the mark well on the hot glowing steel. I can see the line and locate the punch mark with no trouble.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoPCP7AtP94&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Here is a short video of a tool I made for registering punch marks on two sides of a piece of stock for punching. It works well on square, round, and flat stock. The dies are made of H13 so you can mark on both hot and cold stock. The bottom die is a strike line so you can see it on hot metal. When you turn the stock over, you line up the punch in the strike and you end up with a punch mark on both sides. The punch on the top was made by brazing the H13 to a piece of cold rolled 1/2 inch so it would work with the bronze bushing in the guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5w3QsH3m3k

Just in case the world ends tomorrow :rolleyes: I just wanted to say thanks for the memories. Thanks to all B) .

If you enjoyed that one you should like this one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2KJbRHO76s&list=FL-3FGnWL4eKUK7KwSMutEqw&index=48 Following how he makes a tub, I make my own slack tubs.

Why don't you post a picture of the screw with some measurements and we can all get a better look at what you are trying to make. There were some good suggestions posted that you seem to be resisting. Is that because of your skill leavel or maybe your understanding of what was posted. This is not a hard thing to do being that it is not going to carry a heavy load.

Well that depends on your pump and how fast you want the ram to move. I chose a 3HP motor to keep electrical consumption down.

Crunch, I understood what you wanted to do but hot metal doesn't act the way you think it would in this instance. If you could press that doughnut on all sides at once in a spring swage and a press, it might work but hitting it over a mandrel (which is what that threaded rod would be) will make the hole larger, not smaller. And you may damage your screw. You could always try it and if it doesn't work move on to something else.