aessinus

Welcome and good luck with your project! btw, stick that town, state in your user profile so us old coots don't have an excuse to not know which coast (or which side of which pond) folks are located. Material, supplies & tools can be location dependent.

PM sent. Ain't experimenting great fun? Why baby steps? btw, stick that town, state in your user profile so us old coots don't have an excuse to not know which coast (or which side of which pond) folks are located. Material, supplies & tools can be location dependent.

Yep,and if you time your stopping place, just shovel out the coals onto the grill & cook a burger for dinner. Only way I get to forge during the week & get a hot meal after.

Quite nice! Were the two in the last picture textured hot? If so, that's really striking.

Face looks perfectly usable back of the gouges & a good free solution to learn on. Don't mill any more of the face.... Add your location to your profile, grab some snacks & drink read thru your areas of interest on the forums. Welcome!

I reckon so! Next you will be posting a tailgate ad..... I wonder what flat rate is across the pond?

My son just mentioned something in the shop to jog my old memory. I've wondered about for several years whenever it's mentioned, but it's never a convenient time to research. Can any of y'all smell or taste metal? The lad swears he can distinguish between steel and nonferrous. I have an engineer that swears the shop stinks when we've been sawing aluminum plate. I guess I don't think about it most times. Cutting oil, sure, but not metal. Back to my brisket, it smells delicious.

Howdy & welcome! Read all you can & when you post questions include as much pertinent detail as you can think up. The old-timers will still ask for additional info. Shoot, I'll even kick it off.... What sorts of blades ?

Locust is also good, once you get past the thorns. Black locust too; I just happen to have some of that curing by Frosty's boil method.

Thanks, that one I'm trying today! Holes to slit/drift...

Where you at, Hoss? I'll have to scrounge around, but I think I have a can of kasenit. Could send you a bottle if you want to give a go with the cable. I'd offer Frosty some, but Steve scared him off .

There you go! 8# sledge for scale. Planning to drift the hinge cheek plates tomorrow. Left side has to have an elongated hole; round head rail splice bolt has a 7/8 x 1 shoulder. Still contemplating the post mount to keep it semi-portable. That 300# weight has me pondering the wisdom of it. Checked a different 1" x 5tpi acme screw. It would be stout, but I'm afraid too slow for hot work. Hopefully, there is a length of thomson shafting on my desk.

First, thanks Damion78 - for posting your vise build. This thing should trump my other 4", 4.5" & 5" vises; all gracile type. I don't reckon I'll hurt this dude with a 6-10# hammer. The old vise screw is just for the picture, btw. Kevin_Olson, great suggestion to move the pivot to the base. Got two tines from our equipment service rep on Monday, por nada. Took a good part of the day for the horizontal bandsaw to get thru them using old blades, but at least the tool shop mgr didn't yell at me for using any new blades. 36"tall x 4 "jaws x . Now for a hinge block to go with the 7/8" round head RR bolt. I may have even scored a 1" ball screw from scrap; I did get a recirculating ball nut that was replaced on our NC machines. One of the maintenance guys took some worn 20 foot ballscrews home 10 years ago for fence top rails... Said he'd try to cut a couple feet off his fence over the weekend. Not good enough for 0.001" but should work a peach for this vise. Guess I'll have to make him a bottle opener. During the remaining lunch breaks, I milled the fixed jaw straight & about a 10" radius on the moving jaw. There was also a 28" dia x 1" torch drop that they've been moving around/tripping over for 5-10 years. When I told the shop mgr I was gonna borrow the welder to fab a base next week, he told me to load that in my Geo on Tuesday after the holiday. A few gussets, hinge cheeks tomorrow & then I get to drill screw & box holes. Luckily I can borrow the mag base drill overnite & I have cobalt. After the milling, I know I'm going to need it.. The only drawback is I may have to take it back to the shop for them to use on big straightening jobs. You know, the projects created by new lift drivers tearing up rails, and gantry crane tracks, etc. The jaws are 110# & the plate should be around 180#, so with the gussets, screw & handle, should be a bit over 300#. I'm wondering if perhaps I should make it break down some. Opinions, anyone?

NC farrier - about 50# before stump & chains. Had a hard life; face chips & a couple ham-fisted chip repairs with SSA rod by the cutting table. But, found in the bar-ditch where a driller or rig-hand likely left it after failing to secure it before tearing up the county road, so Road-Kill has a better home now .... Handles up to 3/4"stock without having to chase it around.

Both of my sets have a ground notch to denote bottom (except 6/9)

Blatant copy/paste from the esteemed JHCC: "Welcome aboard! Couple of bits of advice: 1. [P]ut your location in your profile. Good! This will not only help area smiths connect with you, but also affects questions about availability of materials, pricing of supplies, etc, etc. 2. Before asking any question, do your research! There is a HUGE amount of information on IFI, and almost any question you can think of has probably been asked before. Learning how to navigate the forum to find the answers you need is an important skill in its own right. (Pro tip #1: the pinned posts at the top of each subsection are always informative and helpful. Pro tip #2: the search feature in IF isn't particularly good; instead, do a Google search for what you want and include "iforgeiron" as a search term.) (2a. A word of warning: some of the most knowledgeable members of IFI are also some of the crankiest curmudgeons you'll ever hope to meet, and they are sick to death of having to answer the same uninformed basic questions time and time again. Everyone here is a volunteer, and you have the chance to get solid, practical advice from smiths with all manner of experience and skill. Respect their time and expertise.) 3. When you do ask a question, be specific! Informed and specific questions will get you good answers. 4. Read the threads on getting started in blacksmithing. Think about the kind of work you want to do, and research that. (Warning: many of the older posts lost their illustrations in a software debacle a little while back. The text is still good.) Read about what other people are doing. Think about what tools you have, what tools you need, and what tools you can make. Don't get too fancy too fast. Don't give up." ____________________________________________________________________________ Read all these first : http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/64-solid-fuel-forges/ & then ask detailed questions. Might save a back-side paddling.....

Pictures?

Sidewalk chalk from the dollar store, carpenter's pencil on painted steel siding, soapstone on black steel, Acad & a 36" wide plotter on paper or mylar, CatiaV5 for 3D stuff to help the end user visualize.... oh, and a stick on the dirt floor of the shop

Welcome & thanks for your service. You at Rota? I have a friend in the north that may know; shot her a msg.

Hopefully the OP continues to read; he bailed in quite a huff (unnecessarily). Doesn't require youth to be data spoiled.

Just had to throw your...kilt in, didn't ya..

That how I keep my overflow of charcoal. Main storage is in 55gal drum at the edge of a barn leanto roof so it can get rained on (hopefully) and stay damp. When I get half dozen bags I drop 1-2 off at the local BBQ by work. Usually good for a hot-link sandwich.

Welcome to IFI anyhow & your shop pictures are impressive!

Sorry, boss, was referring to an alternative for Lattacino's SS "refractory reinforcement" needles... Even at the forge I couldn't get rid of that mental image.

Thanks, History channel.