PaulKrzysz

Thank you Jim, The anvil was just on the forge for display purposes, I will mount it properly. The table will be filled with firebricks. We are going to put up a roof to make a open air shop within the next few months, once that is done the hood will be the next on the list.

Continued from this thread: I have been working of this forge for the while. My Father said to wait for him and he would help me do it, but you never know how long you will wait so I did most of it myself. The Firepot assembly was all me, as well as the table. When a welded the table it was warped where only the two opposite corners of the table would be level, my Dad saw this and decided to help me fix it by doing the legs. Other then the legs it was all me. This was also my first welding project so it was good experience. I learned welding with 6013 electrodes was easier then 7018, the 7018 did not like to strike an arc and would stick often, causing lots of frustration. The Forge measures 33'' tall, 22.5'' wide, 36'' long. The odd dimensions are because I will be filling the table with firebricks instead of what seems to be common here, a steel sheet. The firebricks measure 4.5''x9'' so the table is 5 bricks wide, 4 bricks long. The firepot is the last thing I need to complete, it is made of 3/8'' angle iron, I will be welding a thick plate on the bottom and maybe filling in the firepot with clay to make a more tapered shape on the inside for the coal. it measures 9''x9''x4''. The air outlet will be a 2'' black iron cap which can be screwed on and unscrewed fairly easily. The advantage of the cap is it is rounded at the top and clinker will flow around it, not on it, therefore not obstructing airflow. The air assembly will be simply bolted on to the bottom fire pot plate. I plan of running it with my hand crank blower, it is a 12'' Canadian Forge and Blower, model 99 if I remember correctly. The anvil was made of a I-beam, it has a 1 1/8'' hardy welded in. I already have a Peter Wright so I intend to use it as a bench anvil. I still need to drill in a prichel hole. One thing which I do not know how to do is to bend the horn. At first I though to cut the top plate until I hits the plate which intersect it perpendicularly, once this was done I could hit it with a sledge to bend it, the problem with this is I already cut the support under the horn and if I hit it with a sledge the entire this would bend uncontrollably on me. Anyone have any Ideas for bending the horn? I think it might be too big for the forge. Any Comments, Criticisms, and Help is welcome.

They still make these new in the Czach Republic. You can find them on several sites but here are a few for price reference. "Austian Style" http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/index.html http://kowalperun.com/index.php?cPath=29_42

I think it looks pretty close to the tv show knife. Just don't go lopping peoples hand's off.

Why not cut a sized hardy hole and weld a section of square tube onto the bottom side? No problems for shifting, and if you make it long enough, and sharpen it on the bottom of the tubing you can hammer it into a stump and have a dedicated hardy. If you were to hammer it in, it would be a good idea to drill a little wood out first so the hardy shank has somewhere to go.

I have seen many historical blade from a guy who fixes old swords for a living, many of them show a forge welded tang of soft wrought iron. Many of these where wootz blades as well.

Using a very sharp hand plane and level.Check with level, and fix with the plane until flat.

It is a Trenton anvil, made in either Germany or America around the turn of the 19th-20th century. Most often with a tool steel top, wrought iron base. They are good anvils

That you for clearing that up Francesco, I though it was strictly a visual thing in the wood because it goes against the long grain where most of the strength is.

Are you sure you are not confusing Curly/Striped/Tiger with Burl? Assuming a curly billet was as straight grained as a normal one what then leads to the curly billet being weaker?

Concerning curly maple handles, as far as I know the curl does not effect the strength. When you are buying the wood the strongest would be hard maple (also goes by rock maple and sugar maple) and the weakest is silver maple, then there are several species in between. When buying the handle the curl is not the most important but the species.

I had a 407lb Peter Wright and it was 36'' long if I remember correctly.

That looks absolutely fantastic. It would make a good carving axe for making more handles and whatnot. As well as the extra wood you left up by the top would make it great for choking up on the head.

Buy as many as you can and sell them on your local craigslist. Since you will be buying many, talk the guy down to give you a better deal. From what I read anvils a pretty scarce in CA, so people might me open to buying these. Use the money you earned to buy a nice anvil, forge, and more of these steel blocks.

The one you fixed up look good, kinda like the Hofi hammers. I have on the the same hammers and found it very awkward, largely because the handle was just too thin. I gave it a rectangular maple handle which feels much better.

Great work. Are you a professional smith or a hobbyist? Europeans need to stop apologizing for their English, your sentence structure and grammar is far better the the grammar of many native speakers as 'Nobody Special' said,it is even some that post on this forum.

Next time you go to that store do you mind taking a few pics of those anvils they are selling?

Funniest thing I have read in a while. Calmly explain to her what you are doing, tell her to take every precaution, you keep a bucket of water beside you at all times. Also to quiet the sound of the anvil, secure ti down real tight, wrap a chain around the waist, stick a magnet under the heal, or glue it down to your stump using silicon caulk. If you do that she should not be able to hear you, and might not be bothered as much.

He mentioned it is black locust set down in a way that the end grain is facing up. Locust because it is very dense and rot resistant and end grain facing up because it is more durable and I think fire resistant.

Kingsword12 Please read up on this, read the entire thing, and the next pages. http://www.myarmoury.com/feature_oakeshott.html

The second one looks like a Trenton. They where made in the USA and Germany of wrought iron with a tool steel top. I am not sure of the first one. I really do like the first one, it looks really stout.

Here is my own Little Vise And here is a simple trick which increases the value x4 of your Little Bench Vises! http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-tools-hand-tools-Antique-blacksmith-post-vise-anvil-miniature-2-5-8-jaws-W0QQAdIdZ473398274

Here is my own Little Vise And here is a simple trick which increases the value x4 of your Little Bench Vises! http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-tools-hand-tools-Antique-blacksmith-post-vise-anvil-miniature-2-5-8-jaws-W0QQAdIdZ473398274

Here is my own Little Vise And something for all the Fools who do not know the simple trick which makes your little bench vises worth x4 as much! http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-tools-hand-tools-Antique-blacksmith-post-vise-anvil-miniature-2-5-8-jaws-W0QQAdIdZ473398274

Here is my own