Fatfudd

Dick had a few of the 275lb 57's with small cracks next to the side shelf that he was selling at a greatly reduced price. They still had a full warranty. They had the upsetting block too but at the price he was offering, who cares. I use the upsetting block on occasions but I have a large piece of steel I use more often. You are very correct about the options, I use the thinner flat horn more often than you can imagine. All in all, it was an expensive purchase but if you are in business you'll repay the cost very quickly.

You'll love the Refflinghaus, they are such a pleasure to work on. What size and style are you getting? Here's my 330lb Reffilinghaus-

From what i can see your anvil does not have a pritchel hole, that's why I said its date of manufacture is between 1820 and 1830. The only hole I see in your pictures is the hardy hole which would have been punched.

I have several very early Mousehole anvils and your's corresponds to a 1820 to 1830 make. I have a similar anvil with the M&H logo and a pritchel hole that dates from the 1830 t0 1835 era, Mine all have great rebounds and are wonderful anvils to work on. Good score, it may be 185+ years old but it will outlast all of us if it is carefully used! Make something om it and show us how it has taught you to be a blacksmith.

it could be any make of anvil like a hay budden or a Trenton with the tail broken off.

As others have said its really up to you. That is a very nice anvil and even tho the price is high I've seen good anvils go for more. Yesterday a kohlswa anvil 165 lb sold for $1000 on Ebay and was not in nearly as nice shape as the one you are looking at. I have passed up some excellent anvils for prices I thought were too high and now I regret it.

Welding could be done by a competent welder but it would be a slow process. The runs would have to be short and allowed to cool completely before doing the next run. Each run would have to be fairly short, no more than a few inches. I doubt that the heat from the welding would penetrate to the top plate but if you also cool each short run in water before starting the next run there would be no real harm done. I'd try to find a good sized chunk of mild steel as wide as the anvil to weld it to.

The pads work well for damping vibration however the stands are heavy pipe. the big fisher is on 2x4 pipe that is 1/2 in thick. As John mentioned above the vibration could also come from the use of angle iron rather than pipe.

It does appear to be cast, alho not being able to see it in person doesn't help with the guesses. If it is cast then that rules out all of the American makers including Columbian. Their smaller anvis were not so sleek. I agree with your guess, it certainly could be swedish. My smallest anvil is a 20lb Trenton and you can clearly see the line for the top plate on it. It also has a pritchel hole which I don't see on yours. Anywho, it is a very cool little anvil and I wish it was mine!

Fred Moore in New Mexico claims to have the largest(known) Peter Wright anvil and it's 707 lbs. Check out the Youtube video -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRdaZ66EGVs

My 35" fisher weights 400lbs, Several 36" Hay buddens that I know of are marked 400lbs, My 300 lb Hay Budden is 33" This sort of gives you an idea of the range.

There are lots of anvils for sale new but as Vaughn T said why buy a new one? Here are a few of the other new ones that are available besides Nimba anvils- Refflinghaus - http://www.blksmth.com/Refflinghaus_Anvils.htm I beleive these are the best anvils currently being made. Rhino anvils- http://www.incandescent-iron.com/rhan.html Peddinghaus- http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/peddinghaus-anvils.html also avaiable thru other dealers Old world anvils http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/

Arm and hammer put the weight stamp on the side under the logo. Its a Trenton.

Depends! Is the rebound good. How much of the face plate been removed from the sanding/grinding. ff it is really pretty decent here in NM it might go for $2-$3/lb. Where you are located probably less.

If the peter Wright wasn't done correctly it could be ruined. Check the rebound all over the face. Use a 1" ball bearing if possible. If it was done using the Gunter method it might be fine. I have seen a number that were correctly refurbished and they were as good as new. On the other hand I have seen more that were poorly repaired and were just junk.

You can use a wire brush on an angle grinder to clean the rust off. If you look at the anvils on ebay that Matchless antiques sells that is how Steve cleans his up. A rotary wire brush won't hurt anything. Other than that your anvil looks perfect as is. The old saying "if it ain't broke fix it till it is" applies here.

Hmm 27" long would put it in the 150lb weight class, That seems like one I would jump on, but I live in New Mexico and we pay way too much for anvils out here.

I've seen them in both 3 and 4 leg configurations and they appear to be from the same maker because everything else is the same. They're nice little forges and the belts can either be ordered or get a piece of leather from Tandy and lace it together. Keep it oiled and the skipping may quit. Some of the cogs in the drive(shaft on the big pulley) may be dirty and sticking. Cogs isn't the correct term, I know, but they are small metal points that permit the shaft to turn freely in one direction and catch to power the blower in the opposite direction.

I have the same one and sort of assumed it was champion marketed by sears-

It doesn't matter what the bottom looks like, with those numbers stamped under the horn it can only be a Hay Budden. Very nice!

There's one on ebay, Its been on there for many months because the seller is VERY proud of his anvil.

It'll be on at 7pm mountain time and is one part of 3 that Mike Rowe will have on tonight and it looks to be the last segment.

Need pictures to be able to help you

Boy there would be a bunch of collectors that would give many $ for that anvil.