MOblacksmith0530

just a big hunk of steel purpose built for something. I wouldn't use it as an upsetting block the anvle iron legs would just dig into the floor.

It is what it is. I am too busy to do a proper video for something like this so I enjoy it for their intent. I recently read a book where the author referred to teh blacksmith shop as a Smithery. It didn't really matter I knew what the author meant. And they even got some of the info right about forging practice.Heck maybe in some places a smithy is a smithery. I know everything I do or say is perfect so there!

I give up. I was trying to post a pic that was based on a similar technique. Cant put up a picture. Anyway I like those a lot.

Okay gotta pipe in on the regimental, it is the only way and being breezy is very easy and quite comfortable. Built in air conditioning. Tartan days coming up in two weeks, Three brand new kilts to wear. What I wear under my kilt are usually boots.....

I have to note one thing I picked up out of the video good hammer control. Watch the tong hand it is very steady and that means good controlled hammer blows. I really like the high speed for the reason others stated if you have the experience you can see it take shape without having to wait. Great job, and I like the hinges also.

I like apple cider vinegar it smell alright and I keep a bucket around for descaling and reust removal. put them in for a few days and wash them off and give a light coating of oil if you want. As to Kroil it is the best I have ever found I bought a new gallon at the start of the year. It will loosen almose anything.

I love those. A friend made one a couple years ago but I can't find a picture of it. I will look some more.

Temper bouing will not last. If you want blue you can use gun boue touchup it will last longer but it has to be very clean to give an even coating and it will also wear away after is is rubbed for a while. you can get it at any gun shop I have even found it at Walmart on occasion.

I can relate, I have a full time job that is not blacksmithing. I do however love the smithing. I have walked a line I do some commission work. I do some standard items that carry to events. I also do some selling online. I have one where I make about 40 of a particular item 6 times a year. They do get tedious to do but they pay well and thus it supports teh habit so I can do things like the gate I am currently working on. If I were making this gate for sale it would be in the 3k range. I got a 100 bucks for the metal and the rest is going to be a gift. I am really enjoying this project and I think I will be really pleased with it when done. So I am making enough with the tedious work to pay for the fun without taking money out of the household funds. I always find that there is more pressure when doing the commission work for the money but it pays the costs and that makes it easier to do. I guess what I am saying is there can be a middle ground if you are willing to meet it partway.

I have been given so many things throughout the years by people when they hear I am a smith, and like all the rest I try too give back to those who have given to me. I think one of my favorites was a 108lb peter wright anvil and lead smelting pot from a friend of my sisters. They got a candle holder in return wheic was not enough but then they moved away and we lost touch with them. Like so many have said already here the best gifts I have been given were from other smiths and a couple here on the this post and site. Thanks to all and God bless you everyone.

I think that makes the weight 154 if my hundred weight calculation is right. Hundred weight calculation; first one 1= 112 2nd 1 = 28 Last 14 = 14 lb Total 154.

Ditto what Thomas Powers said. I had in my possesion for a few years a 275 lb Vulcan and the cast body was pretty rough like yours. It ha a 1.25 inch hardie hole and it got a fair amount of use when I would have a hammer in and at the Rennaissance fair 4 weeks a year. They are servicable but the steel face is quite thin. It should be a pretty good anvil for you. The one I had sold for 300 a few months back and that was a good deal.

I have to agree with Wesley it looks an awful lot like my 175 Trenton, The base on mine is pretty flat with only a little indentation. Try to clean up the sides and see if ther eis a diamond on it. the cutting plate area by the base of the horn is a little wider than the one on my Trenton though.

Lovely, anvil I have a 108 lb Peter Wright, and a 148 Mouse hole both were probably made in the same place in England, the same place as yours.

Dont put a mat under it in my opinion it makes it bounce too much. Squirt a heavy bead of silicone under it and then find a large magnet to stick to the side of it and when it builds up a pile of scale it will take the ring out of it. It is a real beauty by the way. I have a Checkoslovakian(sp) 110kg and I mounted it on a 3 legged stand when I furst got it and put a mat under it and seemed like I was chasing it all the time. I took the mat out and put the silicone under it per a sugestion from Tom Clark and it works a lot better.

Shawn Nice job on the forge. I have a Chili Habanero which is the middle sized forge and I block one end all the time when I am doing smaller items it saves gas and heats faster. As to temp I have a digital thermometer that I use when heat treating inportant items otherwise heat it and beat it. You can forge steel up to and including welding heat just more heat equals more scale and if heated enough and long enough the carbon burns out. If you are working tool steels then you need to take care with your heat time and temp if just plain forging mild steel it is not nearly as critical. I have two gas forges and two coal forges in the shop and all get used as needed. I like to work in coal it tends to put me at a slower pace and for me I weld easier in the coal. I do all my damascus in the gas for the most part though. Oh by the way I have my larger gas forge sitting on a cart that has a 2x6 wooden top and as long as I don't forge too long with the side door open the wood doesn't burn. It has been sitting on this cart for about 9 or 10 years now.

I bought the last 265 Ozark pattern anvil that Bob Alexander had in January. I know he is working on getting some more cast but not too many want to touch it and they are difficlt to cast. I absolutely love this anvil and the side shelf and upsetting block. I have not found the shelf to be in the way at all just another place to be able to work and more corners to work into which is always a good thing. I used the upsetting shelf to upset some 1" bars for a get QI have been worning on. Bob's contact info scruboak4@netzero.net of PH 636-586-5350.

looks like typical forge crack, I seem to remember one on my 148lb peter Wrifht in the same area but maybe smaller. I will try and remember to look at it when I get home and maybe post a pic if it is as I remember.

In my opinion the safety issue the most important. I have done quite a bit of cold work but usually it is under the treadle hammer or more recently under the fly press. The slow movement and excelent power of the fly press make it perfect for this kind of thing. I have made a lot of tooling just for edge decorationon on various sizes of bar from 3/8 to 1.5 inches. I have done some cold bending on the fly press as well. I have bent 1/4 by 1" the hard way into 7 inch ID rings on the fly press.

I have upset keys per the method Peacock mentioned and it works beautifully even doing it by yourself. I also have an opinions about the oil or grease. Oil for anything open grease for closed off areas. And even with petrolium getting higher day by day it is still cheaper to oil it than replace it.

I agree with Peacock just remember they will loosen at first when you use the hammer as the scale and rough forged surface changes. When you are making the keys hot they should be kept as cleaan of scale as you can while you are making them. The last set I made a few months ago were out of some pretty high carbon steel and I did no heat treating on them. They have been working very well.

I have thought about pinstriping or some such accent, We will see what time will allow.

Alas no, I don't have either color, dark machine grey and "new" Cat yellow. I haven't done the motor bracket yet and I wonder what color it will be.

Well the hammer arrived at my shop last Friday. It has had the sow block done and new "T" bolts forged and a few other repairs done by Peacock. Now it is time to start the cleanup and assembly. I am going to try and get it completed for BAM's anual conference in May. I have taken some pictures of the process of stripping and repainting.

I just finished some 1/2 inch square tennons on 1" bar and I used a smithing magician with butcher tools in it to set the shoulder and then drew them down on the power hammer using sizing stops on flat dies then finished them with a monkey tool. Pretty simple to do and easier if you are doing round. It is really important in my mind to start with butcheres shoulders or you will have a lot of monkey tool work to do.