MOblacksmith0530

Find a washer that covers the threaded portion of the broken bolt and weld that to the hole you have drilled grind it flat and weld a nut onto the washer, grab your wrench and unscrew it

I have to say my favorite main forging hammer is a "hofi" style Cast in the Tom Clark molds I do all my general forging with this hammer. I own about 40 hammers though and most are in the rack to be used as needed. I don't use my forging hammer to strike tools I keep a separate hamer for that near to where I am working. I have a cross peen turning hammer in 2.5 pounds that is my forge welding hammer cause it works for me. My suggestion is start with what you ahve and spend a day forging with each and see what works best for you.

I have a couple of those myself. One was one of my first blacksmithing hammers an dI had to weld up the face with hard face rod. I have used that hammer on and off for 15 years at least. I love forge welding with it it seems to be perfect for it to my style. it is 2.5 lbs. I have another that looks like a knockoff of a Jay Sharp design with that wider peen. I also have a one that is more like a straight rounding hammer. I do my main forging with a hofi style made by Tom Clark I have one in 2.5 and one in 3.2 lbs. All techniques are valid as long as you are not hurting yourself. Watching my farrier friends makes me ache the way they hunch over a lot and how fast they run the hammer when turning shoes. It works beautifully for them so it is right.

There is a little lack of info here as said before. Cold or hot would make a big difference. if you are doing it cold and it is new stock the kinks are probably from uneven pressure when wrapping the material. If you are doing it how it is most likely uneven heat as Beth says. I have make a couple of jigs over the years for rolling rings for the ABANA type ring projects bending 1/4 by1 the hard way and even heat and good control of the stock on the jig are very important. If you are using round hot rolled steel cold around the form use a piece of pipe that will easily slip over the rod maybe 3/4 or 1 inch black iron a couple of feet long. as you wrap it around the form you can slide the pipe along to keep and even amount of pressure and keep the distance of the pressure point relatively consistent along the length in refference to the drum. Also there will be a fair amount of spring back if you are doing it cold so your form will need to be smaller than the finished size.

WOW, on ths sicle bar teeth, I would have put them a lot higher in carbon content than that, Do you know why they use the 1038 and why so soft? Sorry to hijack the thread but am real curious on this one.

Here is the brake assembly and linkage done.

Yeah not a bad looking anvil and the price is not too bad. The 208 is the British hundred weight system 2= 112lb times 2=224 0 well that equalls 0 :D and the 8 is 8 so that makes 232. Ontario is a little far for me though.

No pics yet but I have the brake fixed side built and the motor bracket done and those are painted. Working on the movable part of the brake linkage until supper time.

Cmon I am dying of anticipation how did the story end? I agree with all above 500 is a good deal get it quick!

Come hades or high water I AM going to have this at the BAM conference (hopefully running) :wacko:

I have paid my way and have hotel reservations, the wife is joining me and I have heard that several are coming from MO and eastern KS.

I have seen a couple of the air assist treadle hammers ane they are fine as air assist treadle hammers. LIke BAD Roger says it will not be a "power hammer"

I use the furry magnet. It is a bar magnet a buddy got me and it don't do much until it is furry. I like the furry look it gets a lot of comments and then I take it off and they can hear the ring. On my portable and my 175 trenton I bolted em down tight and the one on a metal stand got the silicone treatment. It works wonders.

I am terribly envious. That is a fantastic looking booth. We have a booth at our faire but nowhere near that nice. I love all that display space. WE have one counter at the front and the rafters to hang stuff from.

Divermike and ridgeway captured it well for me. It is a confidence thing and some ability to do what is required as I said before and do you feel like a blacksmith?. I think the title artist blacksmith applies to a lot of people who are like beth and make the pretty items with an artistic bent so it is really a pretty large open definition in my mind. there are certainly levels of blacksmith as well. I can make the tools to make whatever I want and generally am pretty satisfied with that part. I struggle with the artistic side. more failures there getting the effect I want. I envision or draw what I want and then use the techniques to try and achieve it. That is usually when it all falls down. The metal did what it was supposed to but it didn't look like my vision.

I built my hobby shop with the possibility to go Pro. It is 30 by 50. I do have a couple of machine tools and some general storage in one end of the building. I did 8' height with a concrete floor and an extra thick pad where the power hammers sit. If I had a do over it would be 40 by 50 or 60 and definitely 10' or higher sidewalls. I would also build an attached portion for an office and display area. I have a side draft coal forge and 2 gas forges in the shop for when friends come over.

Well done! Happy forging!

Where are you or this homestead located? In the north? maybe for traction or travel on ice?

I say try it and educate the rest of us I have no idea but would like to know. I took my personal forge to one of our conferences a few years ago and one of the demonstrators melted a copper rod in it by mistake and I ended up replacing the refractory so I could forge weld in it again because the copper contaminated it beyond steel forge welding use.

Okay spent some time working on the hammer this weekend and have made some progress and had a minor setback.Setback first. I cleaned all the petrified grease out of the clutch housing and put the motor on it and when we spun the hammer over the clutch assy wobbled up and down about .045.evidently when it laid upside down in the ditch or wherever it was to accumulate all that crud the clutch was pressed hard into the babbit and deformed it. before it was cleaned out it seemed okay but after cleaning the problem was found. I did get the motor mount built and the ram and guide re-installed. I have started on the brake mounting and will try to get more next weekend. I should have some more pics by then if I can figure out how to post them into an existing thread.

I am quite jealous, we need to find the maroon that cut the 50 in half and kneecap him. I think the rest was a hack of a deal though.

Real nice work. Did you make the bars that support the log removable? I made a grate for my wood stove out of 3/4 square bar but did not make it removable but welded it together and then welded the end on the stove and now 5 years later the grate is completely eaten away. I have a job to replace it now.

That's really a good question. I consider myself a blacksmith, l was a welder and fabricator for about 20 years before I turned my attention to something I had always been fascinated by. I then spent a few years learing the basics until I got to a level where if someone brings me something to do I can with confidence make whatever they are asking for in the way a blacksmith in the 1800's of before (in my mind blacksmithing started to die down about 1915) would have done it or be able to tell them it can't be done and suggest another method to do it using these same skills. There are still holes in my repertoire but they are mostly things I have not done, or done the hard way. As blacksmiths we are constantly learning new things but if you have the basics down and can do what is needed then you are one also. I would be curoius to hear other opinions on this one.

Gotta say I am a bit jealous. It is on my to do list.

Those are both nice pieces. Well done. I have a pattern for candles cup pieces and I cheated I had my brother in law burn them out on a laser and now all I have to do it to heat em up and shape them the chaping process usually gives then enough texture to make them look good and I can sell them and make a PROFIT,