Jura T

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About Jura T

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    Espoo, Finland

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  1. Going to blue with your tempering can actually be bad for impact strength, depending on the alloy you are using. Have a look on temper embrittlement: http://steel.keytometals.com/articles/art102.htm
  2. Great video, thanks. Hadn't seen that earlier. I was more or less sure that they would have used sen in the old days, and that confirms it.
  3. I finally managed to find a Japanese video on the whole process. They use a bench grinder to hollow the backs (www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bI_q1gksII, see 18:50). Embedding the video seems to make the the post dissappear...
  4. I do the final sharpening of my chisels with waterstones. When taking the back of the chisel (not the whole back but part nearest to the edge) to mirror finish I find that I can do it faster and easier with Japanese chisel (hollow backs) than with western chisels (flat back). I haven't noticed any problems using Japanese chisels for example for tenons.
  5. Well, as Davis wrote it is a lot easier to lap the bottom when it is hollow. Sometimes when I've restored old chisels, I've ground the center hollow to make the lapping faster. Partially it is just the challenge to make Japanese chisels I haven't found any videos, despite quite extensive search.
  6. Why do you do it after heat treat? I tried doing it with a fuller, but it is difficult to get good looking results. I guess I finally need to get a proper belt grinder.
  7. Hi, How would you hollow a back of a chisel as seen f.e. over here: Those ones seem to be ground. Any idea what is used for the narrow grooves in production runs? I'm planning to do a set or two, so speed and consistency would be required...
  8. There used to be a Blueprint on that... You can find photos and CAD drawings in the thread over here: http://www.shopfloor...ead.php?t=12464 I've been thinking of making one of those, however I'll probably make a Hossfeld type of bender: http://www.bbssystem...lbender_102.pdf
  9. MOBlacksmith, I've seen an anvil that was bolted to a concrete block with thin rubber mat in between. I didn't ring at all. I didn't forge on it so I can't say anything about the bounce. I guess, I'll try the silicon, especially as I should have a tube of silicon lying around somewhere. Thanks for the hint. Daniel, the No 58 is more or less a standard model for Refflinghaus. They seem to have it in stock most of the time. It took a week and a half from the order to get it.
  10. I opened the package yesterday, there were no animals in it. There was a Ernst Refflinghaus No 58 150 kg anvil, the one I've been lusting for for ages. What a surprise! :) I didn't have much time to forge yesterday, just enough to make a quick hot cut hardy and to finish the axe I started making last weekend. The anvil definitely feels a lot more solid than my old one (85 kg). Now I just need to mount it properly on the stump and to put some rubber mat in between them to deaden the ringing.
  11. Naturally. I was shocked to notice that they had not put any shock sensors on it. :P
  12. The delivery guy just brought me a package. I wonder what's in it? :D
  13. Mark Pearce shows in one of the UMBA DVD library dvds (RD70) how to make a horse head with a mane. He curls the mane which I think gives a nice finish. Below is my attempt on something similar.