Frozenforge

A centrifugal compressor like forge blowers need to have a gap from the blade tip to the housing, the sides need to be as close as possible without rubbing. This forces the air to the outside then around to the single outlet. If there were multiple outlets around the circumference then the clearance could be tighter. If the clearance is inadequate and due to the single outlet you will actually have less airflow. I replaced a set of blades on a champion 400 and the new ones I made were longer and the output was less than when it had some of the blades eaten 1/2 away by rust. I trimmed the new ones to match the original dimensions and airflow increased.

Depends on condition, pictures needed, and on your location. Made around 1918. If its in excellent condition with clear markings it could attract collectors as well. I would say an average price would be around $3 to $4 per lb. My theory is an item is only worth what someone will actually pay for it, regardless of what a book or website says. If this was my situation I would make a nice wood stand, a good cleaning and beeswax treatment of the anvil and put at the end of a hallway or corner of a room.

Very nice, 2 anvils and almost 800 lbs of Hay Budden! Im jealous!

AIA says 1920. Please post pictures.

If you are selling it do some research in regards to your location and the condition of the anvil and you should be able to come up with a fair price. Just remember the prices on the auction website are usually asking prices tend to be higher.

You should go check out the goldfield ghost town just east of Pheonix by superstition mountain. Its kinda atiurist trap but there is some old metal working laying around on display and there was a shop selling items made at the smith shop there. I enjoyed looking at all the old iron equipment and the items made at the metal shop.

Yea I wouldnt expect anything more than an ASO for that price. Especially considering the cost of freight these days. A guy who was there told me he hit one with one of the hammers and it dented the hammer! So which is harder cheap chinese anvil or cheap chinese hammer!

The pawn/tool rental place on the Palmer Wasilla Hiway has had 3 sizes of anvil for sale 55, 110, and 165. They seem to be cast steel cause they do ring when tap them. Its not a sharp clear ring but its not a dull thud either. The casting is pretty rough and the hardy hole would need to be cleaned up quite a bit. They were priced around $2 per lb so i was surprised to hear any sort of ring. I personally have not had the opportunity to ring test a cast iron ASO so thats why didnt buy one when I was looking but matbe somebody with more experience could check them out.

Valves that are for extreme duty, normally the exhaust, can be sodium filled. The best way would either talk to a caterpillar dealer to see if they know or to use a hacksaw or die grinder to cut through the fillet area where the stem meets the head and look for any hollow areas. I would not try to work them until you find out.

According to AIA born in 1900. Pics please.

Hi Eric, Rob here. An anvil popped up on craigslist in Anchorage. 150 lb Vanadium Steel according to AIA cast steel that was hardened and tempered. Appears to be in excellent shape with sharp edges. His asking price is a little steep at $6 per lb but all he can do is say no to an offer. Just thought I'd let you know in case your interested.

The Newspaper?

To quote Charlie Brown. AAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!

A #57 drill is .043. Probably too large so the velocity of the stream is too low at lower pressures. You want the Propane stream to have a high velocity with a linear flow. When it is positioned correctly shooting down the center of the tube it will draw the air with it. Having too large of an oriface it will take more pressure to get the air to flow leading to the rich condition. Have you run the burner outside the forge? Getting a venturi burner to work correctly you have to pay attention to the details. As Dodge mentioned even a burr on the oriface will have a huge effect.

Uh...... $10 each. I wish. Last time I saw one for sale locally it was small 4" about 50lbs jaws were a little crooked and the screw had alot of wear. Asking $300, wouldn't take less than $250

A little research in AIA confirms late 30s. The good thing about a later date is it will have the whole top half made of tool steel and welded as Mr Coke said. No top plate debonding to worry about. The weight should be stamped on the l/h edge of the base under the horn and the serial number will be on the r/h side. Can narrow down the date it was made from the s/n. About the only way it could be damaged is from abuse, which is not the case, or by odd chance was in a fire and the temper was changed. The ball bearing test would help test for this. Even if its only 100lb still good price! One quick thing to learn about anvils is good ones for a fair price sell quickly. I suspect the guys that buy and sell alot of anvils keep some cash, little hammer to ring test and a wire brush handy cause you never know where you might see one.

Ive seen a pattern like they use on baseballs enlarged and transfered to sheetmetal shaped and welded as they formed it into a sphere, but in 1/4 plate that would be a whole different undertaking. Are you near the coast? Old mooring bouys for boats were steel spheres if you could find one of those and repurpose, modify and customize Good luck

Yes the larger is a Trenton made in Columbus Ohio, probably from the 20s based on the logo with the N looking like a X. The smaller looks like a Vulcan, possibly a Fisher. If you can look at the bottom edge under the horn there should be some numbers on the Trenton usually Fisher put their name there. The Trenton appears to be in great shape, the smaller one is decent. Id estimate the Trenton to be around 125-150 lbs based one the furniture dolly its sitting on, guess at best. You need to get the weights.

We really need winter to be over! They need those down in the desert where the rocks are leaving mysterious drag marks.

What are the internal dimensions? You need to figure out the internal volume. If the dimensions you gave are the internal measurements then that works out to 7840 cubic inches. If you have 2" of insulation all around then it would be 3600 cubic inches. A typical 3/4 inch burner can heat about 300 to 350 cubic inches effectivel for welding. Usually you would run the burner around 6psi. Depending on your burner design there will be a sweet spot where you have a neutral or slightly reducing flame. You dont normally want an oxdizing flame (to much oxygen) as it will cause alot of scale on the steel. With a venturi burner they typically will go to an oxidizing flame as you turn the propane pressure up unless you have a choke installed or it is tuned very well. Burner placement is a personal preference. Some like the swirling more even heat and some like to have a hotspot right under the burner.

I used the ICT100 on my forge and used an undercoating spray gun to apply it. Just a siphoning venturi so it has a coarse spray but it does apply it efficiently and evenly. I put 2 coats on my forge and used less then 2 pints on kaowool. Smooth brick would probably use less.

I think the date was answered already in the Hay Budden topic but I always like thumbing thru the book. Approximately 1914. This would be a 2 piece anvil, top half tool steel and bottom was wrought or low carbon steel. They made the change around 1908 according to Mr Postman. Has anybody heard how his progress on the next book is going?

If you look at the housing where the shaft for the fan and the bearings are there are there is a ridge running along each side. The have a clamp that has grooves that the ridges fit into. The clamp then had 3 legs that slid into it. Just google images of a champion blower and Im sure you will find some pictures of both the mounting methods.

I agree with Sask Mark. I would gladly respond to a fundraiser, I have not been aware of one since I joined, hopefully I didn't miss it if there was. I would hate to see preferential treatment based on your finiancial situation.

Appears to have been blasted with glass beads. This will leave a slightly smoother matt finish than sand.