brimic
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Hey! I broke my first one too! Forged from an okd file, WATER quenched, and mine made that same squeak-ping sound right before it broke as well. I went ahead and tempered and sharpened the handle end and use it as my 'garage' knife. It cuts cardboard and holds an edge like a champ.
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I wouldn't bother. Plaster frightens me, especially if its green. I do lead casting - bullets, sinkers, jigs, etc... you can't or shouldn't use plaster for the reasons mentioned above for lead and that's only going up to 800 degrees max. I've made moulds using a product called 'water putty' which dries similar to plaster, and has to be heated to 400 degrees for a few hours to drive the water out. It worked for casting lead, but the moulds themselves burn up fairly quickly and would absolutely not be suitable for a forge. Like I said, don't bother. My first gas forge I made was with a paint can, lined with 3" of refractory wool coated with ITC 100, and powered by a bernzomatic torch that I adapted to a grill tank. It gets HOT, but only heats about 3" of steel at a time.Materials don't cost me much, we have a refractory supplier in town and the salesman was able to sell me scraps and leftovers for cheap. Fun experiment, but if I were to do it all over, I'd build something bigger with the Reil-style burners (which I'm currently working on).
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I love this thread! I get so much free stuff thrown at me since I've put my feelers out to friends and family. Last time I went back to my home town, my Dad told me to go through my late grandfather's workshop (died in 1999) and take whatever I want, because its been picked through and everything is going to the dump soon. I got a 5 gallon bucket stuffed full of old files and rasps, mainly black diamonds/Nicholsons. I got another bucket full of punches and chisels. A dozen or so LARGE wood boring bits that are 2-3' long. (Grandpa was a linesman and never threw anything out) Two hand braces. 4 old monkey wrenches A few axes heads and a sledgehammer head. A couple of ballpeen hammers A couple of blocks of steel - 4"diameter x 3" thick, another one that was roughly 4"x6" x 1" with a few 1/2 to 1" holes drilled in it (perfect!) On the same trip, my brother-in-law gave me a 3' length of heavy gauge railroad rail. ----------------------------- Last week I got a pair of leaf spring sets from a trailer from my neighbor's shop. He also has a set of dump truck leaf springs in his scrap bin, but those were a bit too big for me to handle. He dropped off a box of diesel valves yesterday, but I'm not sure if they will be good for anything yet.
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Sodium- I would have never known. Would be one nasty surprise to cut off a stem and throw it in the slack tub to cool :o
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My neighbor, who has a heavy equipment maintenance business has been giving me scraps from his shop- leaf springs, mild steel, etc, dropped off a box of diesel valves at my house yesterday. They are all stamped 'caterpiller' with a few different numbers.... These things are pretty big- ~1.5" diameter valve, valve stems are about 5"x 1/4". They seem like they would be good candidates for punches. Anyone know what steel these are made of? Are the exhaust valves a different allow than the intake valves? Any interesting things that can be made from them?
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DO IT! Part of what sets us apart from the other apes is that we can make tools to use to make better tools. There's a lot of satisfaction in being part of a fairly small percentage of our species that actually uses this ability.
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It took me two failed attempts to make my first ueseable pair of tongs. I tried the same method you did in my third attempt and ended up with something that functions well, but like you said, isn't pretty.
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How to build a Rustic Anvil Stand
brimic replied to Daniel.85's topic in Stands for Anvils, Swage Blocks, etc
That is a nice looking stand! I did mine in a similar fashion, laminating 2x12s. I set mine in silicone caulk as suggested by many since I live in a residential neighborhood and need to kill the ring, and kill the ring it did. -
Whew. I thought a suggestion of sticking the anvil in the freezer was coming up! :D That's pretty much how I handled it when I got it stuck- drove it out from the bottom with a large punch, didn't flip the anvil over though.
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Alright, I'll give filing another shot, I didn't want to put too much time into it as I plan to make as many of my tools as possible, and figured on hammering the hardy posts to fit. I wasn't sure if filing was the right way to go or if maybe my hardy was some really odd size to begin with. I've been using a sharpened old brick chisel for making hot cuts, but now have a few worn out jackhammer bits to make a hardie cutoff with. I'm more or less getting started up, and bought the fullering tool because I tried fullering with a piece of round stock laid across the anvil to be much harder in practice than theory.
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Hi, been lurking awhile, finally need some advice... I bought a fairly old anvil awhile back, not sure who made it as the only markings I can find on it are '1 0 12' which I take to mean its a 124lb anvil- its definately the wrought iron type with a steel face forged into place. I recently bought a guillotine fuller tool off ebay with a 3/4" post. the post is solid steel and measures 3/4" and has nicely radiused corners. It will only fit 1" into my hardy hole from the top, it will also go 1" or so in when I try to put it in from the bottom, there is some sort of interference 1/2 down the hardy hole. Is there a way to remedy this? I tried filing inside the hole but that looks like a long, tedious road.