Frozenforge

Can I get Pats location please. My boys hockey season is over so more free time I can make it. Is this also when Gordon is demonstrating?

Im not up to date with the schedule, when is Gordon coming up? I have never been to one of these demonstrations before so Im unfamiliar with the process. Could you pm me or post here if it will be generally beneficial info for all. Thanks Rob

Sounds great to me Frosty, I just assumed I had typed wrong or forgot my password everytime it wouldn't let me log in. Passwords at work, home, bank.....ugh makes my brain hurt!

There is a product called POR-15 designed to coat/prevent rust on steel. It requires the metals surface to already have a thin layer of surface so as it expands during the curing process it will penetrate the microscopic pores in the metal. They also promote it as a concrete paint because of the penetrating feature. I was painting some 2" square tubing about 12" long in the garage and one of the pieces was disturbed and fell over onto the floor and bonded to it! About broke my toe when i gave it a kick to knock it loose, ended up hitting it with a sledge hammer and it came loose, but it also left some of the concrete stuck to the steel! Im sure there are much stronger actual adhesives that will work great. Im pretty sure they use propylene glycol due to it being more friendly to the environment. Alot of the big office buildings built up here in the last 10 years or so have slab heating in the outside sidewalks, stairs. They keep it just warm enough so that snow and ice dont accumulate during the winter. Im sure it pays for itself in the long run not having to pay for snow removal and avoiding slip and fall accidents

The slab heating is usually done with several zones and they are fed by manifolds, that keeps the slab evenly heated but also provides a way of shutting off a section if a leak develops As for mounting equipment, if you use an industrial adhesive to glue down a mounting plate you get a large contact area for the adhesive. If the footprint of the equipment is say 3ft by 4ft, gluing down a steel plate of the appropriate thickness would give 12 square feet. A good adhesive would be extremely difficult to break away with that much bonding area. Im sure there are some experts with adhesives that can make some suggestions.

Had to refresh my memory, do a google search on anvil restoration and you will find the Gunther process under the search result from Anvil Magazine Online.

I assumed you were talking about forgewelding the entire faceplate on at one time like they did when it was made. That would require heating both the anvil base and tool steel plate to forge welding temps then a BIG hammer to join them. If you are thinking about welding the plate on around its edge that would create dead area through out the center and wouldperform poorly. I have read about a couple other methods in the forum but am not sure of the success rate and performance after the repair. Jerry please post a brief description of the repair method, sounds interesting.

Use it wisely and Im sure it will be just find. After all Vulcans were a lower cost anvil for the general public and were used accordingly. I have seen plenty of pictures of higher quality anvils with faceplates missing, badly chipped edges, broken horns and heels.

You are correct it is a Trenton made for Sears thus the ACME logo. Made in 1917. It would be impractical to replace the whole face duplicating the way it was made. Search e forum for anvil repairs and you will find much information.

When the pressure gets too low it will tend to huff like that, otherwise if the exhaust gets sucked into the burner it will make some some puffing sounds as well. I would highly recommend doing the mig welding tip modification as it will make the burner more stable and efficient. If you hook up a hose from the faucet to where the propane normally goes you can observe the stream of water coming from the oriface or mig tip and adjust it to center it in the burner pipe. This will help it draw in more air and be stable. A pressure guage is very helpful for tuning.

150lb no date, When you looked at the pictures you estimated from the 50s.

Here is my regulator and control setup on my forge. I have needle valves to accurately control the propane on both idle and main circuits. The yellow valve is the main shutoff, red valve is the primary shutoff and the black is the idle circuit. Normal operating all valves are on to go to idle just close the red valve.

I will try and get a picture of the gas valving with the idle circuit posted tomorrow.

I have a 30 gallon garbage can I put hot water (from the faucet) in then put the propane bottle in that. Bottle pressure is much more stable especially in the winter. I have to put my forge just outside the garage door for ventilation and fire safety. This works for my 2 burner forge, 3/4 inch venturi with chokes. I plumbed in an idle circuit so with the twist of 1valve I can go from 6 psi to 1 psi. The forge will cool a couple hundred degrees on the idle circuit but comes backup to temp very quickly. I seem to average about 1lb per hour with this setup. I dont forge when it gets less than 10F, the garage gets too cold and dont want a water pipe freezing.

I also like the independent operation of the NA burner. You can also plumb in an idle circuit very easily with a NA burner and by turning 1valve can cut the fuel consumption drastically. Im not sure how easy that can be done with a gun type.

Looks like its ready to go to work! Get some hot iron on it! My only advice would be only use the lugs on hot steel or risk breaking a welded lug off.

Interesting, 2 serial numbers and turning lugs. The lower s/n would be 1907 and the other is 1908. Im not sure whythere would be 2 S/Ns, maybe it went back for a warranty repair? In my limited experience I have yet to see a Hay Budden manufactured with turning lugs, they appear to have been welded on.

Should be Trenton 165lb made sometime between April 1945 to Feb 1947. Around that time the trademark did look like TREXTON. The top half is tool steel welded to the base. Should be a really good one. Pictures please! We all love pictures

I would suggest you go to Ron Reils website and thoroughly read it. I think you will find it would be easier and more informative to build a couple of burners based on his design for a 3/4 inch burner than trying to get what you have now working. With the knowledge you gain you can then decide if you want to try and make the original burners work.

Usually the flame front will move up into the tube due to low gas velocity that is not pulling enough air for combustion to keep the flame at the nozzle. Either too low pressure in relation to the nozzle tip size or as jcornell suggested a clogged tip? Try isolating each burner to see how they operate at different pressures. With them plumbed together a blockage in one will effect the other. I cant tell from the pictures, is the 90' turn in the burner welded on or does it look like the burner was made that way? Since the air is just drawn in any restrictions or sharp bends could cause backpressure issues.

There is probably a letter cast on the other side. Richard Postman was gathering info on these cast letters to determine if they were related to weight or something else. Make a good stand cause it should ring loud and clear.

Seems like every time you talk to an antique shop who buys and sells anvils they are working on acquiring some monster anvil. If only half the stories were true. Be patient and talk to everyone you know. I found an 80lb Hay Budden that our seat reupholsterer had just sitting behind his shed in the bushes. His daughter had horses about 10 years prior and he figured he could reshoe them but quickly figured out the farrier does earn his pay!

Mcmaster Carrr has many different thread pitch guage sets, American National, Metric, Whitworth, Acme. The type where you actually screw nuts or bolts onto it to identify are limited to specific bolt diameter and pitches, most times when you cant seem to find a bolt or nut that fits it ends up being a nonstandard combination of diameter and threads per inch. The thread pitch guages can be used regardless of bolt diameter. They seem to range from around $20 to $80, the acme thread guage was the most expensive.

Looks like the top half of a Trenton to me, probably around a 100 lb when it was whole. Still very useable IMHO.

Cast steel Columbian, is it around 100 lb? Seems like most of the ones with an M on them weigh about that much. Should be a fine anvil.