r smith

http://www.rodovens.com/welding_articles/storage_chart.htm The 7018 rods that come in cardboard boxes wrapped in plastic are no good for structural or inspected work. If you want good rod make sure to buy it in a HSC (hermeticaly sealed container) available in 10 lb cans. These are dry rods good for 9 hrs from opening can if I remember right. Then store as in the chart unless doing farm welding with the left over. smith

Looking forward to the photos :D

Dude, I have an old truck made by dodge and I had to fix the engine. Can YOU tell me the history and age of my truck. Dude-man we NEED pictures!!

My thought would be it is OK to remove the posts due to the other side which is similar has none. I do think it a good idea to have someone familiar with structures look at it to be sure there is nothing funny going on and the new posts are needed.

Do the beams on the other side of the wall span the same distance and are they the same size?

So true

Yes, I remember seeing that pic in post 23 and also saw it on their website. So in that photo you did one door and they the other? Which is yours, they both look good.

Don't you know that to the rest of the world if you are a blacksmith and spend 10 minutes in a shop or any other amount of time there you ARE making horseshoes. I mean that is what the liquid gold guy does it his shop :o :P

I forgot to mention that he says he is a blacksmith. Anothe good one is when he is in the freezer section of the grocery store wearind an apron of cast iron pans- OOOps maybe they are skillets :lol: :lol:

Liquid GOOOOOOOOLLLLD http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaaU1HZsQuE&feature=relmfu :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

is there such a thing as too much power?

I guess you have worked with them? smith out

He said it had a projectile in it. Guessing that it had a patch and ball in it, how long to let it soak through the tight fitting patch to neutralize the powder?

Even a one piece nazel 3b has a cone shaped hole on the bottom of the anvil. I am sure it is for casting purposes as JNewman said earlier. But the machine weighs in at almost 11,000 lbs

I have to think that anything put in a tube and held together with epoxy concrete etc will eventually turn to sand and loose bit under hammer impacts. May take some time to destroy the bond holding it all together but I think history has shown that there are no working examples of old hammers with concrete etc anvils. If they worked there would be some. No doubt they are cheaper and if they worked everyone would have one.

Mud, of course an anvil can be made from what you are talking about but like thomas powers said earlier it will be like using an ASO from harbor freight instead of a good anvil. It seems from your posts that no matter what piece of steel you come up with you will look at it and say it is a shame to use that nice piece for this anvil, since I am building it it needs to be junk. Well if you do make an anvil out of the waste you have collected and glue it all together with something (resin, concrete, rebar, moosepucky etc....) you will have time invested and then think that you have to keep using it to justify the time spent no matter how poorly it performs. It will work good enough that you wont want to change it. Since you don't want to make a solid anvil you will never know its lack of performance. Use some real steel for the anvil and use the brake turnings to add mass to other parts of the hammer like filling all tubesteel pieces. More priceless gems. :lol:

You should quit messing around, get the 20' stick of 4x4 and cut it into pieces for your anvil. 8x8 solid should do nicely. maybe even a small piece for tup. There will be plenty left over to send to me for giving you such a valuable gem of advice. :P

I am not sure but nucor metal may be available outside of Calif. :P

JNewman, I called our local steel house and they only stock it in 2 1/4 sq solid in 14',28',32', and 42 foot long bars quoted at $13.50 ft. over the phone. Made by nucor. smith

Here in California, I get "tul-bar" 1070, It comes in square sizes from 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 It for agriculture tools like discs etc....

The only way to be sure is to try it. Maybe if you could get someone at parker to talk you, you may learn something but for the time spent typing on here I would have already hooked it to air and would know if it will work or not without the electrics.

You should go and do whatever it takes to get there.

You mean Diderot? sp

What about Oliver?

He tolld you in a post earlier