r smith

Good to know, Thanks David. I have a pair of each of them and except for the name and finnish work Wally did on his, they are exactly the same.

I am pretty sure wally sold the design to centaur. They have both a and b blocks.

Here is a quote from a practical machinist forum by reis. "I think the main reason for the "craze" towards air hammers is that the old ones were built like swiss watches- a Nazel or Chambersburg is a whole nother beast from a little 25lb mechanical- and when they stopped selling em in the 70's or early 80's, a 125lb Chambersburg was list price of almost $150K- So if you can get a Nazel 3B, say, for ten grand, you are getting the equivalent of a Two Hundred Thousand dollar plus machine in todays market." The entire thing can be read here: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/machinery-sale-wanted/wtb-power-hammer-106217/

I believe in the timeframe you are talking about anything coming out of industry related to smithing was scrap because virtually no-one was doing any smithing. I dont think that bondi and paley get all the credit for reviving the craft though some is definatly due to them. If I understand history correctly ABANA deserves a bit of credit as well.

The phrase is "I COULN'T care less about...." You just told us that you do care because you COULD care less. Gee sam you really do care about resale value :P :lol:

For the record and those following the thread, I buy tools that work and are going to keep working and doing a good job- hence the nazels- so when I retire they will have value- that means they will sell and for good money. I have no patience for fixing old junk past its prime, my tools are to work. This thought holds true of any purchase- get the highest quality that you can.

Is there any chance it is cast rather than extruded?

Can't help with the levers but I remember from when I was around a lot of this type of work that once you cut the grinding wheel do not turn off the machine. The wheel would need to be redressed after each shut down or you are not getting the very best surface finish. Kind of funny seeing machines running at idle through lunch break :lol: .

As I stated in my post #18 there are good running "plug and play" nazels available ready to work. I am NOT talking about worn out machines purchased for scrap value. A 2b for $12-$15k+ is in this category. A 165 anyang used will take a long time to sell for $7500. I watched 2 of them for over a year and I think one just sold. 2b and 165 are similar machines. I have used both. Point is the nazel will recover ALL of the purchase price when sold and the anyang will be lucky to sell in a timely manner. Brian chose to buy a new 88 instead of a used 165 (40 hrs run time) that cost less money? I think he made the right decision based on his comfort level. Point is old anyangs dont hold their value like the nazel. Of course any machine you use to make money could be junked for no return but why not make the money with the machine and recover the purchase price after years of work.

If you missed the link ric posted here it is again. http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/ They have past shows that can be seen online everything I saw there now is from 2012 Ric, that sounds great, I can't wait to see it. smith

Ironstein, I was refering to sam, he would probably love to have a nazel now even though he only has a little 33. Also there are nazels out there that are plug and play, no restoration needed just more money up front but probably cheaper by the time it is all said and done. Larry (monstermetal) and I think kerrystagmer are victims of this route if I remember their older posts correctly. Congrats on the 88, and the die looks good. smith out

And having a small machine dosn't?

If you buy a new one it is the same freight and a higher purchase price and this guy may have some tooling as well.

Saw this posted by macbruce in first come thread this morning. P6 - $1700 http://denver.craigs...2962515366.html

If the shoe fits, wear it :P

He is attending the auction in person

I would scrape off most of the gravel and replace it (or mix with) roadbase material and pack it with either a small asphalt roller or a vibraplate. I have that and it is hard enough that all but the smallest wheels roll well and soft enough to be comfortable. I will replace this work area with a larger shop in the near future and am considering stamped concrete for the floor surface. I think smooth is the cause of fatigue more than hardness- there was a good thread on wood floors a while back but I can not find it now.

That sounds like a great project. Are you sure you want cultured stone? In my experience that stuff is very soft and fragile, maybe OK for a house or wall but I can see a forge getting bumped with metal on occasion. Real stone would hold up infinitely better, and I think the real thing also looks better. Good luck smith out

It seems that everyone agrees that oxygen is not flammable by itself, it just does a great job of helping other things burn. That is why we have blowers (or venturis) on our forges :). Not air we want but oxygen. smith out

Did you read the MSDS link in post #13? Here is section 5 on fire-fighting measures. The VERY FIRST words are NON-FLAMMABLE! Section 5. Fire-fighting measures Flammability of the product : Non-flammable. Products of combustion : No specific data. Fire hazards in the presence of various substances Use an extinguishing agent suitable for the surrounding fire. Fire-fighting media and instructions Extremely flammable in the presence of the following materials or conditions: reducing materials, combustible materials and organic materials. Apply water from a safe distance to cool container and protect surrounding area. If involved in fire, shut off flow immediately if it can be done without risk. Contains gas under pressure. Contact with combustible material may cause fire. This material increases the risk of fire and may aid combustion. In a fire or if heated, a pressure increase will occur and the container may burst or explode. Special protective equipment for fire-fighters Fire-fighters should wear appropriate protective equipment and self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) with a full face-piece operated in positive pressure mode.

Sam, those articles DO NOT say the oxygen is flammable anywhere in them. here is the MSDS for oxygen from AIrgas, http://www.airgas.com/documents/pdf/001043.pdf According to MSDS datasheets on oxygen: It's non-flammable, non-toxic gas (oxidizer) __________________

This post is just RUDE. I read no indication of banjoe trying to sell on this forum in any of his posts so your accusations are BASELESS and should be apologised for. I can think of multiple reasons to ask the value of an item(s).I am so saddened that I had to read such negativity in the morning to start my day, I have to leave the site. smith out

Thanks, they are so big on the screen you only see about 1/8 of the photo, not to mention the long time to load.

The pics are to big to see

I think macbruce is on his way over :o