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I Forge Iron

r smith

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Everything posted by r smith

  1. If it was on ebay recently it should show up on a completed items search.
  2. I have been thinking of something similar. A layered billet of stainless/mild/stainless/mild... to make outdoor sculptures that the stainless layers would stay shiny. I have done no research on weldability of that combination or if the rusting mild will migrate to the stainless. I think it would be possible to etch the stainless to remove the iron contamination but would being in close contact make that futile? I am watching your thread with interest, thank you for starting it. r smith
  3. 6013 is a light rod designed for sheet metal. If I remember correctly 5P IS 6010 just made by lincoln. 6011 is the AC version of 6010 so if that is what you used to use I would use the 6011. I guess your is machine AC only.
  4. Dangers video shows his set up a little in the very begining
  5. peacock is right, you need more contact on the drive wheel. The rotation of the motor depends on where the idle pulley controlled by the pedal is, it needs to be on the slack side of the belt and squeezing the belt IN so the pulleys get more surface area to grip not OUT like you have it giving less surface area when engaged. Putting the motor above the machine solves most, if not all of your issues. These were designed to run from a line shaft and when you put an electric motor on think of it as just a very short line shaft that needs to be in the proper location. smith
  6. It seems that you should bore a 1 7/8 hole in the end of the roller shaft, that will keep it centered and straight. I do not know if that hole could easily have a keyway added to it, machine shop question. Or my other thought is to weld a flange on the end of the 1 7/8 machine it square to the centerline of the shaft and bolt that to the roller. I would want the flange to sit is shallow recess on the end of the shaft to keep it centered, maybe a 3 1/2" flange, or put a 1" hole in the end of the roller and have them leave a short 1" spud on the end when the flange is squared up. I hope that makes sense. Sounds like your rollers will be quite nice. smith out I think I like the bolt on flange idea best, if you ever need to modify or upgrade it is easy to do compared to having a welded on shaft.
  7. Why can't you weld or bolt a small spud shaft on the end to attach gears to if needed?
  8. Now your speakin my language amigo. I know well the search for the dive with best chile relleno. And I had to read this right before dinner My favorite store bought salsa for when I run out of homemade is: Mrs. Renfro's Ghost Pepper Salsa. It actually has some heat for a store bought that is commonly available. smith out
  9. Ptree, thanks for the good info. It is always a pleasure to read your posts. I was wondering about 10,5000 though? Is the comma in the wrong place (105,000) or one too many zero's (10,500). The way the number is written is confusing. Please if you dont mind can you share a little more about how you are designing your press.Thanks r smith
  10. Ptree, thanks for the good info. It is always a pleasure to read your posts. I was wondering about 10,5000 though? Is the comma in the wrong place (105,000) or one too many zero's (10,500). The way the number is written is confusing. Thanks r smith
  11. Did you make that offer over the phone or did you put the cash in front of his face. I would never listen to anyone that tries to negociate price without seeing item in person. Maybe all you need to do is show up? Lot of flakes on craigslist that seem to want to talk and not act.
  12. Thank you, I have seen that in my looking for info on air hammers and it looks great. Not sure if I can afford the hammer though :(
  13. May come with compressor, I know there is an extra one there and without the hammer not sure they will need the compressor that runs it now. Good point, I will make sure to ask. Got me thinking about power for that as well.
  14. Hi everyone I am hoping to get some advice on a possible hammer air hammer. Please forgive me if this is a repetitive subject, I tried to search on big blu and air hammer- both came back that I needed words with more than 3 letters and you can imagine how many hits i got just searching on hammer A smith near me asked if I was interested in his air hammer. I have personally seen but not yet run the hammer. All I know at this point is: it's a big blu model 100 about 11 yrs old, he got it new. I do not know what to look for or what to ask or what to check out for wear etc... I have checked with big blu and they told me what it sold for new and what the current ones sell for now. I am looking for UNBIASSED advice on weather these are good hammers or are the newer ones so much better that it is best to leave this alone. It would be nice to hear from people using similar machines and not trying to sell me one. I can provide any other info needed, it is just a few hour drive to get to it though. I would use it to start with putting texture on pickets and rails for gates etc possibly up to 2" posts. Depending on its usefulness branch out from there. Thank you for any advice r smith
  15. Vinegar for a day or two. Works quicker if warm which may help if it is cold in your neighborhood now . I use vinegar to remove galv from the climbing bars on old phone poles to forge them safely.
  16. It may not be a bad thing to modify one of them to how she wants it- it will show that you can modify to what they want and in a timely manner. They may feel more comfortable sending you custom orders knowing that you are willing and able to meet their needs.
  17. Dont worry about it. Just shows that different people have different taste.
  18. If you give more details of what you are thinking of and your location we could help you better.
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