Bruno C.

Has anyone been able to identify this vise ? -b

Thanks Otto Ray, It's an interesting vise. I've not seen one like it before. Looks like an adjustable/preset vise jaw mechanism. It's interesting. I had plans of building a post vise out of some 2 inch axle I have, but had trouble figuring how to punch the hole for the screw. This vise design solves that problem. If you felt like taking it apart and posting pics of it in pieces, I'm sure the whole community would rejoice Thanks for the pics, -b

Can anyone provide better pics of thise vise ? -b

Call them up directly. They are nice people to talk to, and they build a quality product. I don't think shipping would be much more than $120 +/-. I think the shipping weight on the two burner forge is somewhere from 60-90 lbs. And they package it very very well and secure. I'd like to pick up some of them new Diablo burners myself one day. -Bruno

My favorite part is the Guy that was wearing gear/face mask and a full shield to operate the huge steam hammer :), and the factory floor full of large lathes was cool too. I wonder how many if any of those behemoth machines still exist let alone are in use today. I truly hope many have been spared the trip to the scrap yard. Giant Tongs! -B

Thought this was Awesome!

I bought a ryobi angle grinder from a near by Home Depot for $60 years ago. Didn't expect it to last. It's still alive, and I've definitely used it out of scope of what the manual says it will do. It will do the job, repeatedly. I would say that if you find a local metal supplier or welding shop, you should be able to find thinner cutting blades than whats available at home depot. The thinner blades really make a difference. A thinner wheel makes for an easier cut with a substandard or underpowered grinder. Either way, I've cut through railroad track and fork lift tines with my little 4 1/2" angle grinder. It takes a little technique and patience for really large stock, but it is possible. -Bruno

My meagre workspace constantly fills and clutters up with the dealings of several different projects. Be it vehicle maintenance or the bits and pieces involved or attempted at the knives I try and make. Funny how fast a large table can collect items not needed for the task at hand. I make it a habit, mostly of necessity to clear off my tables, and free up the floor space when I'm working on a project. That doesn't mean there aren't plenty of unfinished projects sitting in a crate somewhere. Every project I take on seems to take more time, money and space than I usually allot for the task. I find an uncluttered shop beneficial when working on a project. Gives me room to locate tools, walk around or just throw things for those times I need to. I tend not to start new projects that take focus and involvement when there are other projects at hand, otherwise I'd have a vast wasteland of crates full of unfinished projects and no notes to describe what I was thinking. -Bruno

May the Gods toy with their souls for all eternity and may their sleep be ever interrupted and unfulfilled until the Gods have their chance.

Looks Awesome! I do like the compact design, lots more perspective in the video. What did you use for a ram guide ? You have a square ram, but a rounded guide? Brass bearing (babbit?) , or uhmv ? I ended up using 4 pieces of UHMV with adjustment available.

Nick, Save your money and buy a manufactured forge from an established manufacturer. I understand, if you are even here in these forums you enjoy making things with your own hands. Many of us are like minded. But for what you will ultimately spend building/fixing/tuning your own forge you can buy one for only a little bit more (if not less). As Mr. ThomasPowers has stated, you are likely to have more than one forge. I say get a good one to start forging and learn how it works and what to expect from a decent forge, then you will have some more information under your belt that will allow you to decide what you need to be more effective at what you are trying to do. To give an estimate, if you want to build something like a forge out of a propane tank, and do it properly, assuming you have the tools at hand, you can expect to spend at least $250 to $300 if you are careful. But then again, what is your time worth ? If you want to forge, buy a forge. If you want to delve into the dynamics of forge building, then do as others have suggested and do plenty of research on burner design, forge construction, maximum volumes for specified burner designs and all the safety requirements there in, as many of the materials (if not all) required to build a forge are hazardous to your health and those around you. I've built two of my own forges and found it rewarding, but I also spent lots of time researching, at least $300 on the forge/propane materials and (extras), and a bunch more money working with scrap and gas for trips to where I need to go. In the end, had I simply bought the right length of material in the first place (forge shell), I could have avoided a lot of work and saved some time and money after you calculate what I spent on cutting disks, paint, welding rod, grinding wheels, gas, electricity and any incidentals along the way, that $300 could probably buy me a really nice reliable forge that works out of the box. Building a forge is a very rewarding prospect if done right. I'm happy with what I came up with. But you'll get a whole lot more bang for your buck if you let someone that knows all about it do it for you instead. It's a lot of work. My .02 cents. -Bruno

I like it. Looks stout and compact. How does it hit ? I too am a fan of the bolt together model as mine is built that way. Just about every piece is bolted down. Works great. I would recommend though, that you either bolt the machine down and possibly over something like a 1" rubber mat to save your floor. I have mine in a garage, and it only has about four inches of concrete, so I opted to cut through the concrete and mount it in the dirt as I was sure that the concrete would not hold up. I'm glad I did because after I got the 2hp motor going and saw it running, it sure makes a bang. What kind of motor do you plan to use ? And is the frame filled with anything ? I filled mine with sand to add weight and reduce noise. -Bruno

Gas Forge using Stainless Steel ? I'm confused. You would need to insulate the forge in any case using some sort of refractory that would hold in all of your heat. The shell, being made of iron, stainless or dirt just acts as an embodiment for the materials you use to hold in the heat. I would think an extra inch of insulation would have much more beneficial effects for forging than using a stainless steel shell. Sure stainless steel is awesome, and if you can afford it or have it available and can work the material, then by ALL means, go right ahead. But I think you may be over thinking the whole situation. A painted steel/iron frame should be plenty effective, and for what you would spend on the stainless steel + welding wire, you can simply buy an extra inch or two of insulation such as kaowool, cerablanket, kast-o-lite or what have you. I don't know what "emissivity coefficient" means, so I don't know what to tell you about that, but I think more insulation you have will always be more efficient in forging applications since if the heat can't escape, then you don't have to worry about what's past the insulation. If you want to use stainless, Then Go Right Ahead. But I don't think it will offer that great of a fuel savings if you are only using minimal insulation. I can almost guarantee that a properly built forge will never get through to your outer shell. Unless of course this happens: I assure everyone that recognizes that forge in the pic, that the damage was due partially to my lack of knowledge on the subject plus unnoticed shipping damage. The manufacturer in question made it right 100%. -Bruno

In the Latest episode the blacksmiths were preparing for a raid. Doing the usual as you would expect from TV, hitting a sword like object while cold then dunking it in water for dramatic effect. *Sigh*. Awesome show though, so I just close my eyes during any smithing.

Ausfire, Metal Fumes Are No Fun. And once you are afflicted enough to go to the Emergency Room, You are very likely to catch something that will just take advantage of you're weakened body. Heed the advice of the posts above and do More research about safety and know the materials you are working with. I use one of these face masks (Now): http://www.amazon.com/3M-50051131370833-7503-Silicone-Respirator/dp/B002KO0KNQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394261398&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+7503 With this filter for welding: It is very big/heavy and doesn't fit under my welding hood, so I end up holding my hood in front of my face most of the time. I don't weld much any more, so this doesn't concern me much. If I can find a nice pair of welding goggles, I'd use them with a cotton pillowcase over my head. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge-Filter-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POHLRC/ref=pd_cp_hi_1 And This Filter for other normal work like grinding, or even forging. http://www.amazon.com/3M-Particulate-Filter-Respiratory-Protection/dp/B009POIG9Y/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1394261489&sr=8-15&keywords=3m+p100+cartridge+filter Many things you can get from a hardware store are plated these days, especially nuts and bolts. Many are zinc plated, but many also have cadmium plating as well, such as some Grade 8 Bolts. Not stuff you want in your body. Cadmium has a half-life is something like 10 years in the body. And I believe people have been afflicted when working with stainless, due to the Chromium. Again, do your research. I Don't Go Near Anything I even think is plated anymore. Or even painted. Some old scrap may be painted, and if you don't know how old that scrap is, it may be painted with Old Paint that may contain lead. It's tempting to do that quick tack weld without grinding/removing all that old paint off. It's not Worth it. If I were to build a new shop (Wish I Could), I'd invest in the best Exhaust/Ventilation and Dust Collection System I could afford. I dare say, if there was a 500 lb anvil and a Dust Collection System sitting side by side for the same price, I'd get the Ventilation system first. I'd cry over the anvil, but that can be found again, but new lungs don't come around so easy. Unless you are a decrepit old Billionaire of course, then you could afford to have some grown on the backs of goats or something (Science these days). I don't think we are all that lucky. Also, consider your environment and those that may be near by. Just because you may have a $1000 welding hood, doesn't mean a passerby or pets or loved ones near by have one if you are working from a home environment. I often worry about latent dust that has settled after the work has been done. To my understanding something like zinc, when welded, turns into a Metallic Mist/Vapor. Which would mean that the particulates become airborne and if not carried away, would then settle on the surfaces available. What I mean is that you might be subject to such harmful substances after the work has been done, or say during clean-up, or on your way out when you take the respirator off. Anyway, I'll quit rambling and just say that you should invest in the best safety systems you can afford, especially if you are dealing with questionable materials. -Bruno

I've had a cruddy anvil stump for many years. Recently, I've been working on a new one. The old one was made of some sort of soft wood stump (pine/cedar?) that was cut in two that I "stapled" together using bent rebar sitting on an uneven concrete floor. My new one is made of 4x4 Old Oak logs glued and strapped together. All I can tell you so far is that, without even securing the new stand down to the floor, nor the anvil to the stand (yet), my small 70 lb. anvil works 10 times better. An Anvil that doesn't move, or moves less is much better than anvil that walks around. I've hit 1" round stock with 6 lb hammers to small effect before on a cruddy anvil setup. Now I feel like I can move worlds. Secure Your Anvil. Make it Solid. Doesn't seem to much matter how. Steel or wood, a heavy rock in the ground would work better than a 300 lb anvil floating on a ball bearing. You will accomplish much more work for the fuel expended with a solid base. Otherwise, it's just an exercise in futility.

Long thread. Didn't feel like reading it. But the jist seems to be that someone got a booboo cuz someone said something ? LoL. I Say. Get back to smitin the iron and all will be well. Thick skin is a requirement of of one who forges iron, isn't it ? Why am I wasting time on such as silly post? Maybe because I feel that the neighbours don't find it neighbourly to hear the sound of an angle grinder at 2:30 am. Yeah,... Only reason. LoL. -Bruno Too long to bother reading, but you post anyway? we can resolve that problem for you

Maybe I'm just stoopid, but seems to me that you could just use a hammer. Have not done anything like that before, but have made round things and mushroom caps before. Seems to me that you can make a more rounded mushroom type cap with a hammer using small planishing blows. Could even start with a square end and round it off before/while making the rounded stem part. Proper angle with hammer on anvil, With much turning of the stock? *Trying to upload picture* Like I said, maybe I'm stoopid, and that could be an over simplification of technique. But if you take some stock and hit it while turning it, it will become round. Start with a square and round to your desire, and then make the rounded stem part, the round cap would/should end up roundish with just hammer blows. A Fuller or swage like tool would work I suppose. Dunno. I made that in the pic when I was first learning, and it was all done with hammer/anvil, no other tools, other than the purchased chain. I think if you have rounded stem with a square head on it, and then lift the work against the edge of the anvil to the proper angle while hitting it, you can attain the same result. More than one way to skin a cat. -Bruno

Intrex, have you thought about using one of them Home Depot style Car Ports ? The aluminum ones, with no walls, and just a roof. I figure if you get one large enough, and add a few walls using plywood or whatever, or strategically placed vehicles to keep prying eyes away. You can probably have something done for $1000 or less. Slab is optional. Or you can cement down some nice 4x4's, and throw a roof and walls on it and call it a shed. The Neighbours can mind their own bizness. Just a thought.

Cool. Those wreckers are made of 4140, yes ? How much reverberation are you getting back in the handle from such a strike? Just curious...

Yay! Haven't forged anything, but I did get some glue on my new anvil stump. And I put handles on 3 hammer heads. Them old crudy oak 4x4's sure make some work to smooth out. Glad I found that Hand Planer a while ago. Works well. Maybe I'll get to forge some new anvil spikes soon ?

I was gonna forge today, but I have broken tools, several vehicles in disrepair, no money, declining health, less money, basic needs like food and water that concerns the mind, too many ongoing projects and am perfecting my likeness to a bum. So in short. I'm just being lazy. Maybe tomorrow ? :P Hopefully my newish bandsaw tires will stretch and set by tomorrow so I can finish/continue my new anvil stump made of old uneven 4x4 oak (needs days of glue) Then my anvil "might" be well mounted and stationary for my forgings. Probably the only reason I don't forge on account of the whole allergic to money thing. Why don't I just use a Saw/Rasp/Wood Plane? you ask ? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laziness is why. No sugar coating needed. My new forge's and newly made powerhammer sit and collect dust while I practice the art of Lazy. LoL, if the rest of the world were like me we would all still be living under trees.

LoL :)

Intrex, Sounds to me like muscle or possibly minor nerve damage. I've had similar problems when a machine I'm holding binded up and pulled me, causes some pulling of the shoulder muscles. In more severe circumstances the pulled muscle can cause strain on nerves in the area. Takes many months to heal fully. Maybe throwing too much shoulder in your hammer swing ? Hammer To Heavy ? Anvil not properly secured ? Muscle/Nerve damage can occur after extended efforts of force especially while the muscle's are tired. Sounds like you just may have overworked your muscles. And when muscles are tired, it takes only a little bit of the wrong movement to cause damage elsewhere in the body. Examine your technique and equipment and make sure everything makes sense. Other than that, I find stretches before and stretching during vigorous exercise helps loosen muscles and prevent injury. Feel Better. I'm Not A Doctor. Just guesses. -Bruno