the iron dwarf

the grinding is what has seriously damaged it, the hardened surface can be very thin and the more you take off the worse it gets. a pitted surface would improve more with use but as it has been removed it would cost a lot in time and materials to put it right

for blades a cube or cylinder of metal will be good for most things and 'traditional' anvils are a new invention, 200 years ago or more it would have been a block of metal or even a rock.

anyone got the link to the guys making kukri blades in nepal using sledge hammer heads,

you can have a heavy anvil now if you want at little cost, I could go to my local scrapyard and get any one of at least 6 pieces of metal about a foot round or square and about 4 foot long ( many more bigger or longer or shorter to choose from too ) and dig a hole in the floor to set it in to the right height, I will let others work out the weight of that. As is it would make a perfectly good anvil. a piece of rail track would do the same. the working part of an anvil is mostly about the size of the face of your hammer. try the TPAAAT and buy a normal anvil when one comes your way if you must have a modern normal anvil.

you have a PM, look for the envelope at the top of the page to see your message S Wright you have a PM look at the top of the page to the left of your username and there is an envelope icon with a red flag on it to show you have a message there, click on that and you can read it

have plenty here, old WI in the scrapyard by the ton, probably a couple of tons in the workshop and also some new 'butter iron' from the pure iron company

which part of the UK? for metalwork there are more fireproof things than wood, ask around for anyone replacing a concrete sectional garage or shed, you can often get them very cheap or even free, they can also be easily made to various sizes from the same parts, eg a 20 foot by 10 foot garage could be a 10 by 10. what you want to make will determin you tools, get good used tools rather than cheap new tools if you can. if local call in and we can talk ( NN14 1QF), I also go to tool and engineering events and there is one im going to 65 miles away in 2 weeks.

thank you

need to find the weight of a 100mm cube of lead, can anyone help?

one reason I only make bottom blast, come and take a look at the IBF, I will bring along the oldest and most used tue I have ( the central one of five in our big forge )

I have no problem with coke but I dont use steel, grade 250 cast is all I use and 18 to 20mm thick. out of well over 450 made no one has ever needed a replacement

maker, model, pictures will help too. it could be something simple like the spindle locked because the back gear is engaged while the normal gearing is engaged also ( what I do to change the chuck on my lathe )

it takes 3 to 5 days there to get money from paypal to your bank! here it is up to 2 hours to do that

I dont know about Autism and ADHD or how that will affect you learning. some people I have met who want to learn just need a starting point to learn a few very basic things and then read things here or go to you tube and ask people here without ever taking much in the way of normal instruction, others need more instruction, some do several years at college. im no expert but I help where I can

http://www.reenactorsmarket.co.uk/ all packed up and ready for an early start

have some 7018 here you can have ( also have as big DC welder ). normally for 7018 you have to use DC, some will work with AC but most wont. I use the 7018 when welding the table onto my 'agricultural anvil' body and horn is a mole plough, table is a section of fork lift tine

this friday, saturday and sunday near coventry an indoor reenactment market, lots of metalworkers of all types there, I am there in the main building if anyone wants to say hi. if you want more details just ask

the working area on an anvil is not much larger than the face of your hammer, mass is important but area is just an extra

riveting maille is often done with tongs made for the job

often 'FREE STUFF' is not worth the cost

got plenty of unobtainium here, will swap you some for a round tuit

try tiranti near newbury http://www.tiranti.co.uk/

bump

looks like a useful tool. a good point is your drift will always go the same way out of the bottom so you dont end up with a hot drift where you dont expect it

can get 5 liters ( just over 1 UK gallon and a lot more than a us gallon ) of 75% phosphoric acid here easily enough, was thinking of trying it for derusting and blackening but dont know how much to dilute it