the iron dwarf

not only are the answers given to you 'wisdomwarlord' but other could also read them, others even those not registered here could try to follow suggestions made here, in the US and these days in most of the world one thing you should think of first is how to CYA that means complying with industry standards and using certified protection, that way if things go wrong you will have some back up rather than being automatically blamed. a lot of what was posted was for the benefit of any casual observer as much as your benefit.

Any sort of time frame for this starting yet? I just had a play with a chinese 1kw unit I got for about $60, worked suprisingly well

here are a couple of recent ones

the length of the legs will affect the note you get, you would want them different for a fire alarm or dinner gong type of thing but I dont know about for a triangle for a musician, also you would probably want something hardenable and to heat and quench it. I have some small round stock and may have a go at one this weekend

here there are places that hire fork trucks, for anything other than very short hires they replace the tines in case there was unseen damage and one breaks so we see lots of them here

a coil spring from a car suspension a cold chisel avoid anything that is plated, the fumes are not good for you if you get into forge welding then bicycle or motor cycle chain hacksaw blades can be worked and hardened again but are a bit thin

read the entire thread and follow the advice > Thomas Powers Applied Anvil Acquisition Technique until then get yourself a chunk of steel to practice on, maybe a 30" long bit of rail on end, the usable part of an anvil at any time is mostly only as big as the face of your hammer

welcome to IFI there is plenty to read on this site that will help for an anvil you do not need a traditional 'london pattern anvil' a piece of rail track is a good start or almost any large chunk of metal. a solid fuel forge can be made easily, it is a fire with air blown into it

not many HF customers would be here, we are mostly into better stuff. I have made things more public in the past by posting things on facebook including copies of their messages to me. like the carrier for a parcel I sent, should have been 3 to 4 days dropped off at the local store they use and was 2 days to show collected from there, another 3 days and nothing new on tracking, I contacted them and they say they did a search and found it and that it was on its way, 2 more days and no new tracking, I contacted them again and they did another search, they found it had not been collected from the store even though tracking said it had and told me it would now be on its way and delivered the next day. next day still no tracking. contacted them again, another search, they said they had now found it and the previous searched had not, it was finally delivered after 15 days. I posted copied and pasted tracking results each day and all correspondence in a page I created. I posted a link each day and all of that days posts on their own FB page

sounds like TP will be hard to miss

hi and welcome I prefer a bottom blast, if you are traveling up my way anytime come and have a play ( NN14 1QF )

you would have been better off using the anvil to clean it up than grinding it, the hardened surface is very thin and once through that you may find it to soft to use, today I was using a double horn anvil that a few years ago had a face like the surface of the moon, it is not used very often but quite a bit of the face now is reasonably smooth just from use.

square forges here are quite common, of one type alone there is over 500 made in the last few years

a method of taking card payments

and it the case of Thomas Powers two extra anvils to hang from his beard ( or so I have heard ;) )

im short ( as some here may have guessed ) I share a place with someone who is over 6 foot and likes his anvils very high. we have 2 anvils in the forge area, both are his, a old battered double horn that at a guess is near my waist high and a KL that is in better condition but higher. I mainly work on the old one but finish things on the better anvil. will measure the actual heights in the morning when im back in the shop

left handed and right eyed

thank you Josh lots of answers and help, looking forward to the launch personally I have a little experience of electronics, built my first 2 computers many years ago and have friends into it as well so with the simplicity of your machine I would not be too daunted. 3 phase here in the UK is normally for industry only domestic in the UK is 220-240v 50hz 13a with larger things wired in permanently or on the bigger industrial plugs, most houses have a 60 amp supply coming in industry here uses the above plus 16a or 32a plugs for single phase 3 phase in either 4 or 5 pin ( L1 L2 L3 N E or L1 L2 L3 E ) 415 OR 440V ( depending on how it is measured I think ) ON 16a or 32a plugs and sometimes bigger I have what most small industrial workshops have here 32a per phase is my limit. 95% of my forging is on the same small parts 1/2" round and square heating about 3" at the end and this is what I intend using this for as those parts are often needed in a small quantity in a hurry turning this unit on will be a lot better than lighting a coke forge for 5 minutes work. I will be using the lower end of the power settings mostly

coke, 10 minutes sometimes a little less to start 5 minutes after I turn the air off there is just a dull glow, 10 minutes and it wont relight if I turn the air back on.

plenty here, call in tomorrow morning and I will show you

two blocks clamped together and drill down where they meet, I have done this to make tools for a hydraulic swager for stainless wire rope in the past to weld the drip trays do it from above through a hole in the tray, it then wont show, mig would be best for this

2 hammers and a hammer head followed me home from a car boot sale today, dont know what the hammer head is for, it seems to be hardened tool steel. checking the rack at work today I have some EN8 ( 1040 ) which I guess may be good for heads too, will cut a few blanks for people from the 25 and 30mm ( 1" and about 1 3/16" diameter )

used a sm 50, we had one from new in the shop for about 7 years, it was not used often and never had problems with it. I have not used other hammers apart from the one I made to compare it with but it seems ok to me

on a hot day a cold soda may also be welcome

7018 is what i would try