Farmall

Thanks, Daswulf. That's kinda why I got it - I wanted to figure it out - the gradations are so odd. Got it for all of $3, so couldn't pass it up. If I do figure it out I'll let you know.

Got this in a box of stuff. I believe it's for clockmaking but not sure Marked Brevete F & Co. About 6 inches in diameter Gradations spiral out from the center starting with 70 and ending with 590=32-5/8. Any ideas?

Thomas, thank you for the discussion on the explosive artwork. I did not know about it, but after you mentioned, I used my googlefu to find out more. Great stuff to say the least! One of my senior thesises was on the use and types of explosives in construction, so I have always had an interest. Hopefully I can get out that way someday to see it done!

Thomas, you and I shared the same Thermo teacher apparently. Using induction or microwaves to heat something was all new science to me that I had to learn after college. My heat and mass transfer class didn't really go into all that - but, at the end of the day, doesn't matter how it gets there, but Hot is Hot! I think you had the best answer to Glenn's original question - the metal doesn't care how it got hot, but it does care about the atmosphere it got hot in! Look at welding processes after all - it's all about the atmosphere created by the fluxes or gases etc. whether it's Mig, SMAW, DSMAW, or even explosive welding (which is really neat and how they make metal for the planchets that our coins are made from like quarters and dimes -here's a neat link that describes it => Explosive Weldiing Presentation )

Well, I think both of you are correct, it's just a matter of perspective. Inductive heating is a function of both the electrical resistance of the material being heated to generate heat as explained by rockstar.esq, but is also a function of the magnetism of the material as the waves are "electromagnetic" - the electro part heats by resistance and the magnetic part heats through hysteris losses - as the alternating current flips the magnetic poles back and forth, these losses generate heat as a by product. That's why you need magnetic pans for an induction cooktop whereas you can use any type of pan including glass for radiant cooktops. I would assume (but have no empirical data to back it up) that it is called inductive heating because the heat is induced in the object itself, rather than transferred directly through contact. So, it really depends on how we interpret the term radiation as in the earlier "conduction, convection, and radiation" Since induction "radiates" electromagnetic waves, radiation is involved. However, I think that we are using the term for "radiant energy" which is a different type of heating than induction. Look up Inductive versus radiant cooktops for an explanation of the difference. So, if "radiation" is referring to "radiant energy", Frosty is right. If "radiation" is the emission of waves, then rockstar.esq is right. Just my two cents worth and worth every bit of what you paid! Simply put, Friction creates heat through the elastic collisions of the surfaces and the release of the kinetic enrgy from those collisions. So, the greater the number of collisions and the faster they occur, the more heat. Rub a piece of steel with 60 grit sandpaper as fast as you can and feel how much it heats, versus touching it to a grinder with 60 grit sandpaper or disc. Heating is all about getting something more excited than it is - ever notice how hot you get when in an argument? The faster the atoms move, the warmer something gets. That's why all motion stops at Absolute zero - no energy is being transferred, created, or stored. The atoms simply stop.

Well, I'd rather not - for as is often said, the price you pay is what you think it's worth - so the sale price is what I thought it was worth....which may be much more or much less than what you think. Besides, my wife might read this and find out! I will say that in order to buy this I sold an extra oxy/acetylene torch set, some old engine parts, some extra tools, and a gas grill to get enough cash. I only had $200 in what I sold, but got a bit more than that and used all of it to buy this anvil. Still looking for a nice 80-100 pound anvil for my daughter that she can take with her when she moves out, but we'll certainly enjoy using this one until I find her one.

Saw this anvil while looking for one my daughter. It's marked HGV and 1886. I believe it is german or Austrian. It has two hardy holes. Never seen that before. It has three handling holes as well oh, it weighs 140 pounds.

Have you looked at available high alumina kiln shelf sizes that should fit? I have the two burner NC Tool Forge and was looking at them in varying thickness to decrease the volume when I wanted to get a higher heat. I just got the forge, so haven't fired it yet, The kiln shelves I have seen were in thicknesses 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 1". They can be cut with a tile or masonry saw. Still researching this, but I believe it would work.

Daswulf, it does look like a lathe tool rest, but that would be one heck of a lathe! I had a friend (he passed away a number of years ago) that worked in a sheetmetal shop, so I saw him use this and many of the other stakes a number of times, Plus, Colonial Williamsburg brought back the Tinsmith Shop a couple of years ago and I have seen this stake in use there as well.

Looks like a sheet metalsmith's hatchet stake. Look here for more information => discussion of the different types of stakes

Just picked up this nice little swage block. It's 12-3/4 X 14 inches or so. My first block. Can't wait to get it cleaned and back to use. Has nice assortment of edge shapes that will get used first.

Steve at the Blacksmith Barn does have a nice anvil throne!

The person at Colonial Williamsburg I spoke with is Jeffrey E. Klee Architectural Historian Colonial Williamsburg Foundation i got his name from the Master of the Shop Ken Schwarz. Hopefully they can help. Ken is the Blacksmith in the picture you posted.

You might reach out to the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation in Williamsburg Virginia. They just finished ( well, about 2 years ago) the rebuilding of the Anderson Blacksmith Shop and Armoury that included the large brick forges much like the one in photograph. I know that scale drawings of the forges exist as I have seen them. Their great bellows are located in the rear of the forge just as you described.

Interesting tidbit Mr. Powers. Men, Machines, and Modern Times sounds like another good read.

Kneemail sent for the entire family

What gauge wire are you using for the trees?

Glenn, I had $625 in my container. It goes into my anvil fund for future use. Already started filling the 2017 container........

Merry Christmas to all! Hope the new year brings hot forges and accurate strikes for everyone!

Your family is on the list here as well. Each of us has our own challenges we must face. It will bet better, Das.

Just got my copy of "English Decorative Ironwork from Contemporary Source Books, 1610-1836" and it looks very interesting. Not going to take long to read, but will take quite a while to review. While it is 184 pages long, only 18 pages more or less have reading material - the remaining 168 pages are just illustrations of the ironwork. Some amazing work in the few illustrations I have looked at. Again, thank you Thomas for the reference. Good stuff.

Barrett's are fun to shoot - you can really reach out and touch something.....

Thanks Thomas for the book name - I, too, am curious about early iron and have now ordered a copy of the book as well. I have some of the pattern books already (as I am sure you do) like Joseph Smith's "Explanation or Key to the Various Manufactories of Sheffield", so this book looks like it will be quite a treat. There is some discussion of local English blacksmithing such as nailers, in Elihu Burritt's "Walks in the Black Country" as well as a brief mention of the Peter Wright anvil foundry...., there is also the book "With Hammer in Hand: The Dominy Craftsmen of East Hampton, New York". I enjoyed it especially for the tooling descriptions and the work from the Dominy's. With Hammer in Hand is probably the most specific to a particular smith book that I am aware of. Lastly, I would assume you have seen the books "Iron at Winterthur" and Don Plummer's "Colonial Wrought Iron, the Sorber Collection and "To Draw, Upset, and Weld: The Work of the Pennsylvania Rural Blacksmith, 1742-1935" by Jeannette Lasansky. I am fortunate to live near Colonial Williamsburg, so I spend a lot of time discussing and researching the colonial smithing with their help. They have pointed me to many of these titles. I know my library is not as voluminous as yours, especially in the early arms making titles about the halberds, armour, pikes, swords, etc, but I hope this response is helpful as is many of yours.

Shipping would only be about $400 or so from the Philippines! If you come to the states, bring it as your carry on! Glad I could help with identifying......

Once you figure the owl out, everything will be Olay. Not trying to milk this thread or anything. Just trying to stop the idle clabber. (Sorry, couldn't resist)