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  2. I was kind of thinking of the reducer as the decrease in diameter, and the flare as the increase in diameter...it just has a long straight tube in-between. So no, not a wasp waist, but the same principle? The furthest the burner goes in is pretty much the depth of the flare, so I was going from no flare to a couple inches of flare. I like you solution to no pyro. The pyro has it's issues as well - placement in the forge is the main one. When working where temps are critical (like heat treating) I use the color of the pyro as a known temperature to gauge the ballpark of where the metal is. It's always different. DanR
  3. I know where it can come and live. Pnut
  4. A Mossberg plinkster was 99 dollars the last time I saw one. A dog inside the shop at night will keep the critters away although it could cause damage of it's own. Make sure it's up to the task though an angry coon can give a lot of dogs a good fight that the dog might not win. Pnut
  5. The cooling reservoir tank is secured to the forge table. The hinged steel lid will keep the coon and my sister-in-law's cats out of the antifreeze. There aren't any dogs in the area. Rest assured the antifreeze will be well secured against any animal intruders. I am glad that the antifreeze poison problem was brought up as I never thought of this problem. Now a little background information: I do have a coon and groundhog invasion in the smithy building. They have dug holes under the buildings footing, in the dirt floor and leave their foot prints everywhere including the seat on my tractor. My Smithy is in an old Hog House surrounded with corn and bean fields here in Iowa. The cats are a real big problem as I will catch it if any one of the cats get poisoned. The only way to keep the animals out is to concrete the floor of a 30' x 60' building, which would be nice but cost prohibitive. .For those who live in cities, the wild animals probably are not a big problem. But for those who live in the farm country, they can be a huge property damaging problem much more severe than just being a nuisance . They leave their piles of scats everywhere, Coon will break into a house thru a hole that they make and live in the attic, or basement. Over the past few years, the coon have chewed a entrance hole thru the roof, and baseboard in our farm house. The coon fur prices have been down for several years. As a result, the fur trapping isn't worth the effort. This accounts for part of the explosion of coon in the farm country.
  6. Well PW104, it looks like it's to the island of misfit anvils for you....don't cry, maybe Santa can find you a home come Christmas time.
  7. I will make a steel lid to be placed over the tank so the coon can't get to the antifreeze.
  8. Hi there my friend. first ....who would blame You for the amount of pictures? The more the better! for us looking at your skilled work is entertainment and we are not overfloated with that, arent we? To make a living with making knives(or another craft) needs a lot of discipline....I say, more than if You work for somebody from 8am-4am....it more easy to get distracted by some " knife playing in the backyard" ....of course said from my point of view. as ever you show a nice asian influenced row of wild useful tools all looking undestructable and pretty mean And....he year isnt all over yet....keep them coming! Cheers
  9. I used to have a Stanley 45 combination plane that was my stepdads. I never did figure out everything you could use it for. I don't know what ever happened to it. Pnut
  10. The antifreeze additive ethylene glycol is poisonous to humans and also animals. animals like it a lot because it is sweet. It will kill them. In contra-distinction, the close cousin propylene glycol is safe for consumption and is an approved additive for some food products. Carefully check the label before use. Ethylene glycol containers should be kept covered. It is a strong poison. SLAG.
  11. Check the tank daily for floaters. Pnut
  12. Great!!! now the coon that have holes in the shop dirt floor may pass on to the next world without passing "GO"!
  13. Dead critters, unless you get the non toxic anti freeze. Pnut
  14. My forge building progress: Today the chimney portion inside the building was completed. It took two of us, a come-a-long and several ropes to lift the chimney bottom two sections into position. The connection joint is made by cutting a piece of the tubing into a 6" high piece with a 2" wide strip removed so the chimney section can be squeezed to be stuffed into the top of the chimney section. The section is then welded to the top end of the tube section to make the male joint. The Female section is made by making 8 each, 4" long slits in the bottom end of the tube. The tabs are pounded out. The two chimney sections are checked for a proper mating. A 3" wide clamping collar was made to go around the tubing joint. Since the Side Blast Forge is water cooled and winter is approaching I had two choices. a, fetch 10 gallons of water for the forging session and then drain the water when thru forging. b, go to used antifreeze. I opted for the used antifreeze that I got from the local car dealer. The antifreeze should not cause the steel tank and tuyere to rust. Antifreeze conducts heat a little better than water. ??Has any blacksmith used antifreeze to cool their Side Blast Forge?? If so, what is your evaluation of using antifreeze in stead of water? Is there any surprise problems associated with using antifreeze as a coolant? Are we having fun yet? Paul
  15. It depends on how authentic you are trying to be. In some historical re-enactment circles there is an unfortunate "more authentic than thou" ethos with people trying to out authentic their neighbors. "Oh, you have a woolen garment? Well, mine is hand woven wool. Oh, yours is hand woven? Well, mine is hand woven and hand spun. Oh, yours is hand woven and hand spun? Well, I raised the sheep and sheared them myself? Oh, you sheared your own sheep? Well, mine are a historically accurate breed." Etc, bloody, etc.. In terms of authenticity for eating implements you can go with either wrought iron or mild steel in my opinion. Just keep them lightly oiled. And stay away from forks since they weren't introduced into England until the early to mid 17th century and probably didn't get into common use in the Americas, particularly at a level below the gentry, until into the 18th century. Also, spoons had a bowl shape sort of like a fig, broad at the end and tapering towards the stem. The end of the stem was often beveled with a simple angle cut which was called "slipped in the stalk" and resembled how you would cut a flower stem at an angle. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."
  16. @pnut yes i do happen to have a old scrap pit on my quad trail i dont know i didnt think of it i will go check
  17. Up the speed some and figure out how to get it to dwell with the tup up. A little slow for a 100# mechanichal. Probably an easy fix, swap out a pulley somewhere. Good job with the mass, nice to see nothing jumping around or the camera shaking on impact.
  18. you and your daughter should both be very proud, usnavy 58 - 62
  19. BOA November 2019 meetings; dates and locations: NW Chapter, Marble, AR, Nov. 9 Central Chapter, no location yet, (somewhere in Cent. Arkansas) should be the third Saturday normally. PM me for location details.
  20. Thomas: I'll look around for a copy once I finish going through Gerard's Herbal(Inter library loan on some of these get kind of limited), although just found a used copy of Cathedral, forge and waterwheel and picked it up, its next on my reading list. I just volunteer when I have the time but on some of the events where I am there at a mealtime it would be nice to sit out with the meal. The timeframe is 1590s-1650s in Virginia/North Carolina, so any resources like iron would actually have been exported and finished goods imported. The blacksmith mostly did repairs or anything that was not really practical to ship, hence the comment on charcoal being used as opposed to coal. The location has its own smithy, and it is a bellows, but air is bottom blast after the rebuild, although the location closer to me that I have also done some volunteering at(a bit narrower timeframe of 1611-1622) is a bellows sideblast forge, and the carpenter/blacksmith/surgeon there is the one that has gave me a fair bit of advice on getting started in smithing several years ago, just getting time to head out there when its open has been difficult this past month. I was mostly hoping to be able to make something close enough due to costs, but will give some more thought and take your advice on doing it right the first time into consideration. Was hoping to be able to make something that looked like it'd belong in timeframe with what I had on hand.
  21. Yesterday
  22. You know; if someone were to offer me this, I would first check it. Because it's relatively soft; it's easy for owners to "regrind" the surface. I've seen the lower hardness lower layers of steel peeking through; like strange blurry spots in the polished steel. Using a ball bearing or a really small peen hammer will tell you. Also; don't do the ball bearing or the peen test if it's bolted down. Put the anvil on a rag or something, and check if the "ring" is continous left to right. If is suddenly changes, this may indicate a crack in the anvil.
  23. Started cleaning up an old plane that was my granddad's. It's pretty rusty so i been soaking it in oil for about 3 days now to get it apart. Just an old Stanley but there is a little sentimental value behind it.
  24. Found this by my barn today. I was looking through some rocks for a piece of flint. Looks like some clinkers and some coke or almost coke coal. The house is old enough that there was most likely a forge in the barn for what ever reason.
  25. What is the function of this valve? My big hammer uses an automotive valve and spring for a one way valve. Its part of the air cushion system.
  26. I don't plan on casting anything much more than stuff that will fit in a 5 in diameter flask. That is the largest I feel comfortable handling and will fit properly on the vacuum table. Also, I use 100% investment plaster. Kerr's Satin 20 is what I have right now. For my smaller pieces it is much easier to clean out. I saw a really cool CNC machine making crowns at my last dental visit. The processes they use have really evolved. No more developing film, just a buzz and the x-ray appears on a PC and few minutes with a CAD app and then send it to the CNC machine.
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