Knife Making Class 200

I'd like to make 'damascus' from two types of stainless steel (so that the final product also has anti-corrosion properties). Which steels will allow you to maintain relatively good contrast without the need for deep etching?

So I’m new to this, and getting info about forging is kinda difficult because I live in the middle of nowhere without any local experts to ask about this, and I cannot just google it because the sheer amount of misinformation there is that makes my head spin. So I came here hoping for a straight answer. I want to one day, in the far future when I have the experience to do so, forge a Langes Messer that combines the Ulfberht with the Katana. Not for any romanticized reason (I’m not a weeabo or something like that) it’s purely for the sake of cosmetic purposes and for another reason I can’t really describe. what I want to do is take two crucible steel …

Hi guys, I know there's carbon loss during folding, especially multiple times, as in Japanese bladesmithing, but is there enough loss for it to be a concern? Kapp in "The Craft of the Japanese Sword" throws a number of .03% carbon loss per fold, so after 10 folds, a 1%C stock would retain .7% but the question is how does it relate to carbon loss in modern stock steel like 1095? I'm not taking other factors into account, like forge environment or oxygen exposure, only multiple folding, say, 1024 layers after 10 foldings. In other words, if I forge a blade from 1095 and fold it 10 times, am I going to end up with ~.6%C?

Rich Hale Each week at this time the management of this site allows Steve and I to present items to help makers. We fully appreciate the regular chatters for allowing us to interupt the normal evenings chat steve sells So far we have covered basics, Tonight Rich and I will Jump ahead to class series 200 and get some advanced things going, Damscus patterns and Mosaics we will return to basics later but for now Rich will start with his take on Mosiac domascus Rich Hale Thanks,This will not be for new makers,,,there are several folks that read this that are way advanced from what we have covered up til now...And again this is not a skills class if you cannot do basics…

So I am relatively new to blacksmithing, I haven't really been able to do much since I live in a third story apartment and it's winter, but I had this idea I can't get out of my head. What if you could fold copper into a mild steel billet? it would probably require a power hammer since copper melts a such a lower temperature than steel, but I think the result would be quite striking. I guess what I am wondering is if you more skilled blacksmiths think that it would be possible, or worth it to try. And how you would go about it.

steve sells This is our third edition for the advances class 200 series, next week we will be returning to the 100 series for beginning knife makers .. Those iof you who are just joining us, this is the advnaced class for knife chat, for one hour we take over this chat room to talk blades, So far we covered some steels to start using, later we will get into some strangs mixes, for now I would like to alk about various fluxes used, and some NOT to use and why. Some use Wasps nests and also sand is used, becaue they were available, also burned straw ash these can work, but are not the easiest to use, Borax is common in many places, and works well, There are also comme…

Steve sells I will try to explain how I do wooden sheaths, with and with out leather and metal hardware, and if time setting stones like cabochons. for now lets not worry about what kind of wood. all that matters it it will hold together, so soft woods are not the best choice. also if the wood will be visible you want a attractive color and grain pattern. If fiddle back or such stabilizing will be needed to keep it from falling apart also I start with splitting the wood plank down center to get 2 flats for east side. by starting with One thick piece and splitting it I get to match the grain for later with its finished 2 separate boards are not likely to look as one. …

steve sells tonight we continue with the advanced class of series 200 by covering steel choices for pattern welded blades. Not all steels work together easily, some pull apart easily when cooling due to differing expansion and contractions rates. If you are just starting out please review the 100 series for getting started, this is for people that already know blade smithing, and want more we advise learning to forge weld before trying the pattern welding as many patterns place a lot of sress on the weld and if not 100% solid WILL pull apart Steel choices Using as simple as possible and still geting a usable blade means paying attention to alloy cpmtemt as well as c…