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Show me your anvil


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#21 stryder

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Posted 22 June 2006 - 05:27 PM

yesteryearforge, that is one fine anvil stand!! thanks for the input. George

#22 stevomiller

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 06:22 AM

Dodge, that is quite an anvil that you are making. Is the face tool steel?

#23 Hillbillysmith

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Posted 28 June 2006 - 09:54 PM

I am happy to inform everyone that I finally got my first anvil today at an auction that I was working at for $180. I'm not sure of the weight, but if I had to estimate it, I'd say it's about 150 lb'er. Not a bad deal at all, especially the condition it's in! I'll get my cousin's camera and snap a shot of it and post it this weekend.
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#24 Dodge

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Posted 28 June 2006 - 10:17 PM

No. Its solid mild steel. Might hard face b4 its all said and done but I've done some banging on it and as long as I maintain good hammer control ;) It is working good. Besides, if I leave it mild I can fix any dents or dings easily with my mig:)

#25 Sam Salvati

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 10:05 AM

Why not forge weld a tool steel face on it?

#26 Nolano

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 02:47 PM

I cant tell whether your being sarcastic or not, so if you are, ignore this.

Do you have any idea how huge a fire he would need to do that? Not to mention a gigantic hammer to make the weld, and some way of lifting both the anvil and face, most people dont really have tongs(or arms) capable of doing that....


Dodge, I would reccomend hardfacing it, with one layer of softer hardface, then a layer of harder. first layer 40-50, then the second should be 50-55. If you dent it this way, you can always patch it up with the same hardfacing rod.
I dont know if your doing this on your own, or you have already found this guide, but here is someone who did the same type of thing:
http://www.metalwebn...il1/anvil2.html

#27 Hillbillysmith

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Posted 30 June 2006 - 11:47 AM

I power washed, wire-wheeled, and dressed the face, horn, and body of the anvil and I found a maker's seal that says "ARM and HAMMER" and under that it says "WROUGHT IRON". While grinding, I think that the anvil is ALL wrought iron and has a hardened face cause you can see the difference in the sparks and it has dramatically different ring tones between the face and horn. I'll get some pics up this weekend as that I have have to barrow a digital camera from a cousin of mine.


P.S.

I don't know whether you are being sarcastic either (ApprenticeMan) but as Nolano said you have no idea what kind of fire, fluxing, tongs, and hammer that would take.
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#28 ThomasPowers

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Posted 30 June 2006 - 07:11 PM

Arm and Hammer anvils were made in Columbus OH USA, The one I have has a wrought iron body with a steel face forge welded on it .

Not to be confused with Vulcan anvils that use and "arm and hammer" logo but are cast iron anvils with a steel face

Thomas
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#29 bruce wilcock

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 02:11 AM

each year 5-6 blacksmiths gather at the smithy ,and we forge a anchor ,all forge welded we use fires in the yard to make the crown weld .This year for a change we forged a anvil ,i made two floor fires to weld the parts at the waist .The job was thought out and the only lift was to place the top section on the spigot in the dog hole ,the bottom part we just flipped it over and dragged it out of the floor fire with the dog tongs ,no lifting and we used heavy hammers we then got the job back in the fire and welded bars in to tydy it up with it in the fire the anvil weghed 160 lbs .we have olso made a new pike for a small anvil 95 lb without pike and forge welded it on we made the pike with a blunt end and jump welded it on without taking the anvil out of the fire we pulled it to the side of the fire and throwed a steel plate over the fire to cover it up to let us work and then finished the point of with another heat all on the floor. If a few of you get together and one is forgemaster ,and you make fires to suit the job and get some coal on , you will bumble albout for a start but it will come togeather ,big jobs hold a lot of heat and men tire out so you need a change of men so split your gang up
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#30 Hillbillysmith

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Posted 01 July 2006 - 10:13 PM

Thomas, thanks for the info on that anvil of mine. The body should be wrought iron because it says "WROUGHT IRON"right on the anvil, by who knows. :) I think that that is especially cool because I live in Ohio, about 130 to 135 miles form Columbus. If anyone can tell me any more info on these anvils, please let me know. Thanks.

P.S.

I'll post a picture tomorrow.
Weld like you've never welded before!!!
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#31 Hofi

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Posted 02 July 2006 - 04:19 PM

Ok it is a little old, tired and was found in a junk yard. Would you bring it home?

Rest of the story?
French anvil dated 1723. A French rohset on the side, an "MN" Monarchy Napoleon on the other side. Found in a junk yard in the old town of Jaffa.

this franch anvil is in my galery in ISRAEL

URI HOFI

#32 Hillbillysmith

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Posted 02 July 2006 - 09:30 PM

Here are some pics of my new anvil. Like I said, it's an arm and hammer wrought iron anvil with tool steel face. The numbers on the anvil are: on the side of the body below maker's seal is a 9, the letter under the horn on the left is a C, and the numbers under the horn on the right are 17375. If anyone can tell me anything about this anvil, it will be greatly appreciated.

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Weld like you've never welded before!!!
6G 2" Sch. 160 GTAW/SMAW ASME Section 9 Certified.
Hobart Institute of Welding Technology

#33 Cory

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 10:25 AM

Hillbillysmith, the info I have on the serial# shows the anvil was made in early 1913. The C and the 9 are inspection marks. A very nice find at a good price.
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#34 Dodge

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 01:28 PM

Metalwebnews was where I got the idea of cutting from plate several years ago. As luck would have it I bid into a shapcutter job at work and was able to get the job done. Unfortunately, due to physical ailments, I've had to change jobs so it is a one of a kind ....sort of. Will post more later but thanks for advise- Dodge

#35 lee

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Posted 03 July 2006 - 04:37 PM

cool anvil Hillbilly....doesn't look like the arm & hammer I've seen.Again it looks like another farrier anvil.... a real find in uniqueness.So cool.totally jealious here now.


Nice to see such prizes in the blacksmiths of todays , possession.....thanks for sharing such prizes....it might make me green but happy too.I just love your cool tools toys...trophies.


lee

#36 Hofi

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 03:59 PM

This Is My Anvil Designe Which I Plan To Cast Out Of 6150 Somewhere In The East Of Europ Or Chaina.
Mounted On A 1 3/4 Plat And Glued To The Plat With Sikaflex 11 Fc
To Prevent The Ringing And Get A Much Beter Rebound (reaction)
The Thre Legs Out Of 2x4 1/4'' Wall R.h.c Welded To The Plat In 22 Degrees. The Plat Is Cut In A Way That Follows The Pateren Of The Anvil Base And There Are Holes In The Plate Under The Paralel Holes In The Anvil And You Can Easy Go Down To The Ground With The Steel Every Place Around The Anvil 3-4 Pritchle Holes And 1 1/4 Hardie Hole. The Base Is Squer And You Can Upset Around The Anvil

Ther Are Many Mor Advanteges To The Anvil If Asked I''ll Explain

Hofi

#37 Hofi

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 04:09 PM

Forgot To Att The Fotos

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  • Attached File  004.JPG   144.41KB   200 downloads


#38 Dodge

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 04:23 PM

As I stated earlier, my anvil was cut from 4" plate and is one of a kind. In the attached picture of stacked anvils, mine (before shaping of the horn and shelf) is at the bottom. The next from bottom was cut for 3" plate followed by a few others that I made just for novelty's sake ;) The other picture shows the smallest I made. The key ring is intened to show scale. That anvil is 1.25" tall at the face and .75" wide. its 2.75" long from horn to heel with the horn being about .88". It weighs less than 2 pounds.

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#39 J W Bennett

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 12:33 PM

Here's my anvil, I've added hammer loops and hardy pockets since this picture was taken.Nuthin fancy just functional.

JWB

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I just wish I could forge more time!

#40 Sam Salvati

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Posted 06 July 2006 - 11:05 PM

This Is My Anvil Designe Which I Plan To Cast Out Of 6150 Somewhere In The East Of Europ Or Chaina.
Mounted On A 1 3/4 Plat And Glued To The Plat With Sikaflex 11 Fc
To Prevent The Ringing And Get A Much Beter Rebound (reaction)
The Thre Legs Out Of 2x4 1/4'' Wall R.h.c Welded To The Plat In 22 Degrees. The Plat Is Cut In A Way That Follows The Pateren Of The Anvil Base And There Are Holes In The Plate Under The Paralel Holes In The Anvil And You Can Easy Go Down To The Ground With The Steel Every Place Around The Anvil 3-4 Pritchle Holes And 1 1/4 Hardie Hole. The Base Is Squer And You Can Upset Around The Anvil

Ther Are Many Mor Advanteges To The Anvil If Asked I''ll Explain

Hofi




More advantages you say? I would love to know more PLEASE!




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