Is this mystery steel or do you know the designation of the alloy?  The reason  I ask is some alloys are notoriously difficult to weld to themselves.

It is possible to get a good weld even in a slightly oxidizing atmosphere if you are using flux.  The main purpose of flux is to keep oxygen from reacting with the the surface of the hot steel.  So, if you have a clean surface (that means absolutely no contaminants or forge/mill scale) and you apply the flux as soon as it will stick to the steel, that should keep the surface from oxidizing and provide a good welding surface.

Is there a group or a person around you with a little experience that can help you with this?  It's one of those things that seems complicated, but once you can judge when you've reached the right temperature and can see and hear when the weld is set it seems far less complicated.

Even after you set the weld, the pieces can separate easiest at the weld seam if stressed.  It takes a few additional welding heats and hammering to get it to the point where it is one solid piece without a weak spot.

Goods is correct that if you want a seamless transition you do need to scarf the end of the piece so you can work it into the parent stock without a sharp transition that creates a weak spot.  However, if you're just trying to practice and understand forge welding you may not want to go that far yet.  What you are attempting is good practice for making fire pokers, btw.

Keep in mind that even with pristine new steel if it cracks, additional stress on the steel will make that crack run longer and deeper.  Likewise, you can have a partially welded piece that when stressed will start to separate at the seam, and additional stress will cause cracking down that seam.  A complete failure to weld will usually result in full separation along the weld seam.  It's not uncommon to get a partial weld when starting.  I still get them occasionally.

One more thing:  You want to hammer in such a way that you don't trap flux between the layers.  So, you want to start at one end and strike along the center line as you work towards the other end of your weld.  For wider pieces you'd then work the sides in subsequent heats.   Think of it kind of like toothpaste that you're trying to squeeze out from between the layers when you hammer.

Buzz and Goods,

Sorry for the late, reply. I guess I got frustrated enough that I had to step away for a little bit. The steel I'm trying to join is two pieces of 1/2" mild steel square bar. At the moment is just for practice, but in the future I do hope to make fire pokers and little things to someday sell on the side.

I did clean the steel good before starting, but I didn't start at one end to work the flux out. Very good point, it makes sense!

I really wish there was a group close by that could help me. I do know on fella but he stays so busy we haven't had a chance to get together.

Thank you again for the input and encouragement. I work through the weekend but will fire the forge up and try again Monday or Tuesday.

Keep at it Lee, it'll come to you in a flash and you'll wonder what the problem was. Seriously, it's just a matter of practice.

Frosty The Lucky.

Hey guys! It's been a while since I last checked in. Still enjoying this little forge.

I recently added a front door to the frame. I experimented a little before hand and found that it really helps even out internal temperature for heat treat of blades.

It's about time to replace the lining.

It looks like you are using high alumina kiln shelves for the front and back plates. Is that correct? Or are you using something else? How hot do the plates get over time?