King Machinery Inc Horizontal Bandsaw - looking for information

[ArmySoldier72]

I admit I can be impulsive. 

Quite a few months ago, I bought an old Horizontal Bandsaw.  1HP motor.  And I am trying to find a manual for it so I can order parts. 

One of the blade guide rollers is missing. Which if I had looked a little closer I would have realized. 

 

From what I can read on the plate, it is a

King Machinery Inc 

Heavy Duty Metal Cutting Band Saw

 

I have more pictures if anyone would like to see. 

Also I have googled and found Similar size horizontal band saws, I am just not smart enough to know if those parts would fit. 

 

Any thoughts, ideas or info would be greatly appreciated.

 

ARMY

SE Oregon

 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Might try manualsonline I've received some manuals for old odd machinery through them free downloads in PDF form. If you only need a guide roller & stud it looks a lot like my Duracraft bandsaw made in Taiwan and I bet the the guide rollers would be the same.

Also ereplacementparts has bailed me out with some needed parts for old equipment. Can't post links but google them.

[George N. M.]

It also looks similar to my Harbor Freight metal cutting band saw.  I think the general prinicples are much the same no matter what the brand.  The details may be different, e.g. what you turn to adjust blade tension or how to adjust the cant of the driving or idler wheels.  So, manuals for similar tools of different brands may offer some general guidance.

Just don't try to use cutting oil.  It gets on the blade and caused slippage on the driving and idler wheels.  I won't go into why I know this.

I tend to use mine primarily in the upright position.  I have plenty of ways to cut off metal but the band saw's primary use is to cut slots, e.g. to make a Fredrick's cross.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

[swedefiddle]

Good Morning Army,

That BandSaw will have many different names. I have worn out a couple, but I still use mine. Don't look for a hard answer, if you are missing a bearing, look at it's number and order one from your local bearing/parts store. The Saw is not perfect, but they still keep ticking. If H/F has a saw, look at it's parts sheet.

Neil

[ArmySoldier72]

Gang as always 

Thank you for the info.

 

I will do just that,  put my NCO hat on and get it done.

8)

 

With metal work being so new to me....I am over thinking things

Thanks again 

Army

[Frosty]

I have a Jet horizontal, vertical, band saw very much like yours it's better than 30 years old and going strong. Gide rolls are easy they're just sealed bearings with a center hole the size of the screw holding it on. Take it to a bearing supply or driveline supply/shop and buy a couple. Replace them ALL while you're at it or sure as the sun is bright the one you didn't replace will go south soonest. There is a 3rd guide roll that holds the blade down on the work, don't forget that one!

In the pic with the saw vertical it's a vertical band saw. If you replace the platen, the little square plate with the slot surrounding the blade with one about 12" square it becomes a VERY versatile metal saw. Change over is unscrew the little one and screw the large one on. Reverse the process to use it for a cut off saw.

One operator's manual is much like another where these little beauties are concerned. Parts not so much but they tolerate mix and match better than most machine tools. 

Does it run? If not motors can be had for not much if you don't mind taking something else apart. 1/2 - 1 hp. 120vac are everywhere, I got my first 3 hp. 220vac motor for hauling someone's hot tub to the dump for them and taking it apart of course. Never took it out of the pickup. Tread mills usually have around 2hp 120vac motors but unless you really understand electronics forget the speed control.  

If you have problems getting your new saw working and adjusted so it cuts straight, let us know we'll help. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[ArmySoldier72]

Frosty motor runs and pretty well considering its age. 

When I was surfing google looking for info, I saw exactly what you were talking about with the platen.  I was not sure if I could make that addition on this one, but your comment has encouraged me.   Is there any concern of metal filings falling into the motor?  Should I build some type of shroud for vertical work?

I will try to get those bearings off and head to the bearing shop today.  /CROSS FINGERS

 

ARMY

[Frosty]

Generally the motor is shielding from cuttings by the frame and blade handling hardware when vertical. If cuttings are falling on it you might want to make a shield for it. Mine gets all sorts of crud on it but rarely cuttings. 

Be patient with the guide roll screws, they've been in there a long time. Maybe hit them with a few drops of penetrating oil and let them soak a while. If the bearing supply doesn't have anything measure them and look online. These kinds of guide rolls are common everywhere. 

When you get it working and adjusted you'll love it. My band saw in cutoff configuration is the only power tool I own I'll put to work and go do something else. The worst that can happen is breaking a blade and I buy in bulk online. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

About the only thing I have to offer as far as maintenance is to take the cover off the gear box and grease the gears. This HF Central Machinery manual will probably help a lot as most of the saws are close to the same.

62377.pdf

[Anachronist58]

I have a Rong Fu Taiwan.  Like all have already said, these things are easy to maintain, follow all of the previous advice.

I will add that the wheely stand on mine is junk, as is the case on many of these saws of a thousand names.

I mounted mine on a wheeled platform...

Robert Taylor

Use the search term 'bandsaw guide bearing' on Amazon for a cornucopia of options...

Edited May 26, 2022 by Anachronist58
Addendum

[lary]

Got one of those where I work. Probably purchased back in the 90's has Dayton written on it but the specs tag has made in Taiwan.  64 1/2 inch blade, Stared at that red one at Harbor Freight and it looks nearly identical. I replaced at least one of those guide rollers and If you squint hard enough with a magnifying glass you might be able to get a part number, and with that info maybe somebody at Napa can help you. It might be due for a new blade. Ounce put back together you'll probably want to cut a piece of pipe or box tubing and check squareness. When cutting, slowly lower the blade on the work piece. And DO NOT push down on the blade when it's cutting you will pop the blade off the drive wheel, tear teeth off of it or break it in half. Sorry for repeating some of the good advise already given.

[Frosty]

We have a Grainger outlet in Anchorage and a smaller one in the Mat Su Valley, they're an excellent place to find these kinds of parts.

Agreed, keep the feed rate low, especially on tubing of any kind and cut angle iron V up. Just get some new blades, variable teeth per inch (TPI) is a good choice as it's getting difficult to find blades coarse enough for even moderately thick stock. The rule of thumb is "3 teeth in contact at all times." More is NOT better but is okay and fewer is not good. There is a lot involved in why this works for saws but that's for another time.

Frosty The Lucky.

[lary]

If you decide to get a new blade check the local True Value/Ace hardware. If they have a tractor/farming parts dept. might be able to get the bearing(s). Looks like the price on the blades there is about the same as Amazon.

[Frosty]

I buy my blades in bulk from "Global Industrial". You may need a calculator to pick the right length. For example my saw takes a 3/4" x 72" blade but they're listed on the site as 3/4" x 0.035" x 6'. The second "decimal" dimension is the kerf width, how thick a slot it cuts. I can get IIRC a 3 blade pack for about the same price as ONE at the local industrial hardware store and better still I can chose the TPI. I bought 4 packs to make free shipping making my band saw blades about 30% of local limited stock price.

Don't accidentally buy a roll!

I'd prefer to support a local supplier but any that carry suitable blades are all owned by outside corporations so I go for my best price.

Frosty The Lucky.

[ArmySoldier72]

LOL Frosty, "Don't accidentally buy a roll"

yah know with internet shopping, I have had some whopper of mistakes what i thought was a set of 2 turns out to be 2 sets of 12. (not blades, other stuff)

But I will keep it in mind. 

HEAD to the shop to take he existing bearings off so I can figure out the new ones. 

I will check the blade as well.

ARMY

[Frosty]

Ain't we all made those? 

You're going to love that little puppy.

Frosty The Lucky.

[ThomasPowers]

I saw a bandsaw blade welder at the scrapyard last time.  Unfortunately they had already run over it with heavy equipment.

[ArmySoldier72]

Well last night I got the bearings off and then I went to Tractor Supply and D&B Supply (both are farm stores, tools, clothes, feed, implements, etc etc) and neither had bearings this small. 

Today I went to a Bearing and Hydraulic place which is were I go when a hose blows or trying to fix an old hydraulic implement and got  all 6 bearings. 

I know their prices may have been more than online BUT I am 100% sure they are exactly the same as what I took out of the machine. 

 

I looked at the parts list for central machinery, Grisley and JET.  But since I could not get exact item specs, I was worried they would not fit. 

 

She powered up in the horizontal position with no issue. 

Vertical she does not spin unless you give the pully a little push (or start her in Horizontal and lift her up)

I am guessing this is because the motor is getting old?

 

I can not find a blade at any of these places so I will take a look online as Frosty suggested. 

This blade is toast, I tried to cut a piece of thin pipe and the blade was sliding side to side. 

 

Well thats enough fun for today.

 

8-)

Thanks for all the help and comments.

ARMY

[Frosty]

It won't pull the band in vertical because the tensioner screw is loose or worn. The tensioner is the knob on the far end from the motor, turning it moves the guide wheel in or out, tightening or loosening the blade. When you tip it up the wheel moves downward under it's own weight and the blade loosens. 

If the blade is loose it stop as soon as the teeth bite or won't cut straight, etc. We'll talk about tensioning and adjusting the new guides so she tracks straight. The tricks are pretty easy but you need it working to check and its really hard to learn if it doesn't work. Make sense?

OR doesn't the motor run when vertical? That's a whole nother kettle of skittles.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Mine started doing that and I found the gear box was all gummed up. Cleaning it out and greasing it with wheel bearing grease corrected the problem along with the adjustments Frosty mentioned. Also check the v belts motor to gear box for wear.

[swedefiddle]

Good Morning,

I get the best service using 'bi-metal Blades'. A trick a friend showed me, when you put a new blade in, run the new blade through a lump of Aluminium ( I use an old cylinder head). This lets the blade seat and it still cuts straight after 2 years of using the same blade'. Without going through aluminum first, they always cut crooked.

Neil

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

That is something I have not heard of. I will have to try it when I change my next blade, thanks.

[Frosty]

I've never hear if that either, I'll give it a try. Thanks Neil. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[ArmySoldier72]

I will get some photos of the gear box up today. 

Looked inside and it looked ok, 

 

The motor Runs in the horizontal position. 

And will run in in the vertical position if I start the bandsaw in Horizontal and lift it up or If I give the pully a little nudge. 

IF starting in vertical position the motor Whines like it is trying to move but does not, like it is bound up. 

I will tighten the blade as much as i can.  

This may be dumb but can it be over tightened?

 

ARMY

PS I wonder if the title of this thread should be troubleshooting..  8-)

[George N. M.]

According to the manual for my HF model the blade should be tightened just beyond where it is slipping on the drive wheel, no tighter.  I think that if over tightened the blade would have more of a tendency to jump off the wheels and would put an unnecessary strain on othe components like bearings and might even break the blade.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."