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Buying first forge


Duckkisser

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No Billy, you should definitely build your forge shell as strong as you think it needs to be for the way you work. With a little reinforcing the square pipe might do for the stand.

Frosty The Lucky.

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:D Well ya know… I have been known to overkill it on building some things, lol

the bad thing about building a forge outta 3/8” walled square pipe would be moving it!:wacko:
the good part would be ya wouldn’t have to worry about it walking off at a demo! Lol

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At one of the SOFA gas forge building workshops we used oxy welding tank cylinders for the shell. A pain to move; but I like being able to weld fixtures to it. I think my next fixture will be a gazinta so I can put in a fork and do twisting while the piece is in the forge hot!   (Hope it will help twisting billets at near welding heat.)

OTOH, getting started I saw this at the scrapyard today:

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A bit long; but not huge in diameter and comes with a handle and one leg already! Cut both ends off to keep the handle centered and it would make a lovely shell at  25 USCents a pound...

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You could even call them perk fittings! 

I like the gozinta twisting or whatever fixture Thomas. Put another aligned on the far end, a porta power and it'd make a good upsetter. All sortss of possibilities. I like it.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Mikey98118,

I get what yer saying there’s no need to pay a ridiculous amount of money for a (heavy duty forge) when lighter materials are more than enough to work! 

I was just poking fun I wasn’t trying to undermine your statement,

I was just sayin if a body had the materials laying around what’s the harm in building a ridiculously heavy duty forge? Lol

i know some of the coal forges I’ve made are way!!! heavier built than they really needed to be:ph34r:

ive never built a gas rig or burners and know nothing about it!

But I have the big square heavy walled pipe an thought it’s be fun to make a gas forge out of a section!

 

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Hmmm..

would that be an epic forge for making swords? 

or a forge with which to make epic swords? 

or an epic forge to make epic swords with?!?:huh: 

lol, inquiring minds want to know!

Im not a sword making kinda guy though,

the closest thing I’ve ever made to a sword was a letter opener for a trade item at a hammer in lol

 In all seriousness, I got that pipe to make sand anvil stands and a swage block stand,

But I have thought of using part of that monster pipe to make a propane forge with, maybe a foot to a foot an a half long, one or two burner,

The inside is 11-1/4” across, I dunno nothin bout gas forges so I don’t know if that’s to big to work with or not but I thought it be a fun project to try one day

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 5/3/2022 at 12:46 PM, Mikey98118 said:

I'm a fan of the single burner Diamond back forge.

Mikey,

A couple of questions about the Diamondback single burner:

1) Their website lists three grades with varying prices. Which one would you recommend as the best “bang for the buck” for someone wanting to make this a self-funding hobby or possible side business?

2) Would you recommend changing out the insulation? It appears that they primarily use firebrick for insulation and as the forge floor. IIRC, you have recommended against firebrick in other posts. 

Many thanks,

Bantou

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Okay, what I think I know about Diamondback forges is from reading what  that their owners have posted over several years; that is all positive, and they especially like how the single burner forge works and holds up. About the two and three burner forges, I simply have no information; and therefore no opinion.

As to changing out the refractory in this forge, change nothing before its time, including the fire brick. Ugh! How can Mikey suggest such a thing, after all he has said? Somebody get a rope!!!

I have also said, over and over, that circumstances alters cases. Right know, price gouging is epidemic. In responce I would suggest multiple layers of Plistex 900 on top of the brick, to give you adequate time to hunt down a reasonably priced substitute. Adequate time for smart shopping is my favorite decision these days :rolleyes:

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I went back to the Diamondback website, to ascertain what you meant by "three grades with varying prices." All three forges have the same refractories employed in their manufacture. The difference is internal volume and how many burners that volume requires to reach welding heat.

However, I did notice a very welcome change in the single burner forge, and that is movable external doors. Again, I must grant reluctant approval to the manufacturer (don't approve of him personally). During more than two decades that I have been following comercial forge designs, only one other OEM has improved his product, and that is Chile Forge.

I must also note that all of the super-cheap imported forges, which I used to recommend, now cost as much as the much higher quality single burner Diamondback forge!

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And before anyone asks, of course you should also coat the walls and ceiling with Plistex 900; so if it's so good and so cheap why don't OEMs coat their forges with it? The likelihood of shipping damage makes manufacturers loath to coat their refractories. A few provide the coatings in bags of powder, but most would simply rather not open up that whole can of worms.

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I wonder if I am in the wrong site then. I’m looking at Diamondback Ironworks. They show a series 1,2,&3 single burner forge. The series 1 is $185, series 2 is $250, and series 3 is either $410 or $365 depending on if you get the blacksmith or bladesmith version. 

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Frosty,

The illegal way, of course. If something is to be done, it is best done properly. And let us not forget to bribe an executioner to sharpen his blade :rolleyes:

52 minutes ago, Bantou said:

They show a series 1,2,&3 single burner forge.

 

Apparently, a different page. I will go back and look again.

Bantou,

Yes; they were the same company, but completely different pages. You would be best off going with a series three forge. Knifemaker or Blacksmith confiruation is an individual choice. And I would still invest in a Plistex coating for its interior.

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Bantou,  After watching Roy over at Christ Centered Iron Works, I spent the $88 and bought a Mr Volcano.   I figured a it a good investment to see if I could and would keep up with the new hobby.  I figure if after a year or two of working at it, if I am still going strong I will buy something a little bigger or try a coal forge. 

just my 2 cents.

 

ARMY 

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I’ve been using coal for a while now. I like it but supply is becoming an issue. The quality from my usual supplier has been getting worse and the price has been going up. The last time I bought, it cost me $18/50lb bag and had a lot of rocks and fines in it. It also makes a dinner sized plate of clinker about every two hours. 

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That bag might've been loaded from the bottom of the pile and the loader scraped up some of the yard dirt in the process. What did your supplier say when you told them it was really dirty coal? Deal breaker dirty that is. I'd love to find 50lb sacks for $18 but that's about as likely as palm trees sprouting in our yard. 

Do you buy in person? If so take a tarp, open the bag and check it out. If they're loaded by weight you should be able to get an idea of how dirty/rocky it is by heft. Is the bag full or is there slack in the bag, does bouncing it while hanging feel more massive, etc? 20lbs. of stone and dirt has more mass than an equal weight of coal and with practice you can feel the difference in how it moves. I bounce things in my hand to check, just cradle the sack in your arms like a baby and bounce it up and down. 

If I really want to burn coal I have to drive about 30 miles and mountain goat it down from a decommissioned mine. There is world class coal available IF you can find the right seams. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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