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Buying first forge


Duckkisser

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I am planing on buying my first ever forge. Don’t want to take the time to learn to build one so I will just buy one. Was thinking to buy a hells forge two burner forge on Amazon. Does anyone have any recommendations or suggestions for a better forge? Or a cheaper one that works just as well. I’m going with propane since it’s cleaner. since this will be an addition to wood shop don’t want to have coal smoke in my garage. Does the shape matter I see round, oval,square. Leaning towards square so I can stack on shelf When not in use.

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Yeah, carbon monoxide exposure is accumulative and the gas hides, lingers and is insidious. 

My other thought is firing up a forge in a space filled with wood dust everywhere, shelves, floor, under stuff and suspended in air. 

Duckkisser: How about putting the forge on a steel serving cart so you can wheel it outside to use? I've picked up a couple at garage, yard, etc. sales for really cheap, one was part of a take it all or leave it sale. It lets me move the NARB forge around easily and I have a 40lb. propane bottle for demos and such. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Actually that was the plan already thinking to buy harbor freight tool cart. I’m going to set up near the garage door so I can just open the door roll forge to drive and use anvil just inside garage.  realy what I need to figure out is a forge.what kind to get. How they have held up over time. Ect… the hells forge costs about 400 so looks for god hobby forge.

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I can't say about some of the modestly priced propane forges currently on the market but they're a topic of conversation here, maybe take a look in the Propane forge section of Iforge. I think there's a review thread going on currently but my memory is shot.

As long as you know about CO and already plan on mitigating the hazards I'm much relieved. When I hear: beginner, propane forge and garage in a post I get jumpy.

Living in Alaska, every fall / early winter furnaces  firing up after sitting idle or newcomers buy something for extra heat and after a couple days of missed work and unanswered phone the bodies are found in a police welfare check. If saying something might prevent it happening I'm speaking up. 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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As to your original question. I don't think you would get a better value than their one-burner forges, but at $400, NO! That price puts you in the Diamonback range, and you would be far better off to get one of their forges.

As to shape, I'm a big fan of oval forges, but not when their burner or burners are mounted straight down from the center of the roof. From that position, you are better off with a box forge (square); which Diamondback is. And did I mention that you should choose a Diamondback forge? I mean, not that I'm being pushy or anything :)

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23 hours ago, Frosty said:

I can't say about some of the modestly priced propane forges currently on the market but they're a topic of conversation here, maybe take a look in the Propane forge section of Iforge. I think there's a review thread 

 

This will mostly be a every once in a while tool, maybe once a year when I make a bunch of handles, hooks, knobs, knife blanks in fall/spring. Then I will spend winter/summer grinding and cleaning, sharpening for my actual projects. As I build them.   Eventually I will get into casting to make small statues for my art projects. 

21 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

 I don't think you would get a better value than their one-burner forges, but at $400,

Looked at it and it’s 100 dollars cheaper then the hell fire.  So if it’s as good sounds like a good investment. I’m guessing you own one?  Can you tell me is it possible to turn off one of the burners if I’m doing small projects?

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4 hours ago, Duckkisser said:

This will mostly be a every once in a while tool, maybe once a year when I make a bunch of handles,

Heh, heh, heh, Lots of hopelessly addicted blacksmiths thought the same thing until they began indulging in the joy of beating HOT steel into submission. Just using tools you've made with your own hands feels so good you'll be draw to the anvil for your next fix. :D

No joke it's as much fun as you can have with your clothes on.

Frosty The Lucky.

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7 hours ago, Duckkisser said:

Looked at it and it’s 100 dollars cheaper then the hell fire.  So if it’s as good sounds like a good investment. I’m guessing you own one?  Can you tell me is it possible to turn off one of the burners if I’m doing small projects?

No, I don't own one. And further more, I quite dislike that company's owner; take this into consideration when I praise his product. So, why would a recognized expert builder of burner and forges recommend the product of someone whom I admittedly despise?! As once was said of Timex watches, "It takes a licking and keeps on ticking." After decades of use, Diamondback owners are only more pleased with their forges. And when the their ceramic  insulation needs to be replaced, it is a simple easy process. This forge works well enough to satisfy fuel budgets and and do heavy work.

You can watch a video on YouTube of an old Diamondback being relined by its owner; it says it all. As an expert, a and a prissy butt, who is seldom satisfied with anything, the only improvement that jumped out at me was to replace its burner with one of my design. As to that, it would be an easy job because of the way its burner is mounted. Not that his burner has any great need for improvement.

It is a personal embarrassment but...I'm a fan of the single burner Diamond back forge.

Your pardon. I need to go wash my mouth out with soap :P

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Well, if you want to spend about $250, considerable time, and some new gray hairs, I am willing to lead you through the design and construction of  a super forge and the very latest burners. You will end up with new tools and lots of knowledge you never would have had. And, you'll have a BRAND NEW SPARKLY of your very own!!! But, if you're one of those practical types, who just wants to pound iron...well a Diamondback is my best advise :rolleyes:

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Ya I have most tools to run a full shop.  But from what I can tell most forges take a lot of welding and I don’t realy want to spend a month learning to build a forge. Would rather start pounding and learn to forge. And I don’t want to spend hundreds of dollars to get set up to just start making a forge.  I can do a lot in my shop but I kinda have a focus in my shop.

I would like to see what kind of forge you are talking about. Can you show me a picture?

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DK, if you just want to get metal hot as quickly and easily as possible look up JABOD (just a box of dirt) forges.  A solid fuel forge may not be right for you but you can probably get a functional forge going in less than a day, including trips to the lumber yard or big box store.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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2 hours ago, Duckkisser said:

I would like to see what kind of forge you are talking about. Can you show me a picture?

What kind of forge you want is always where these discussions begin. I build all kinds and sizes. Box, tunnel, "D" shape, mail box, or brick pile; its all the same to me. Whatever you decide, others will quietly build the same thing, while we discuss it. Spring is forge building time. The only kind of forge I don't build is ribbon burner forges. However, loads of guys here do, and they are just as helpful :)

Why don't you begin with what you want to do with it, and we can begin with size?

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DK: If you look at the bottom of your previous posts you'll see a note from Mod 30 that s/he had to remove excessive quotes. You're in a direct conversation with Mike there is NO need to quote him. It's wasting bandwidth and of the 50,000 subscribed members in around 150 countries around the world and who knows how many of both just read without subscribing many are in countries. Many of them only have access on dial up connections and pay for data usage. Out of courtesy we try to hold bandwidth to a reasonable rate. Quoting a post that is directly above on the screen is costing people who spend hard earned money to read what people like Mike say.

PLEASE stop quoting unless it's absolutely necessary and then NOT the whole darned post, just the word or sentence you need to focus on.

You aren't in trouble this site has a steep learning curve and everybody makes mistakes especially starting out. You need to pay attention though, check your own posts a day or so after posting. If they've been changed, in your case, portions deleted read what it says at the bottom to find out why. Repeated violations of rules or basic common courtesy can get you moderated.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Sigh        of all the the forums I have joined carving,wood working, stone working ect…..none have been as restrictive as this forum.  Just noticed that didn’t think quoting someone twice is excessive.  Also saw that I got a warning because when I posted something on wrong page because I wasent sure where to put it. At this point would not be surprised if I get dinged for this post.  Frankly I have been turned off using this forum.

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Also don't take getting "dinged" personally; I've been moderated for a typo before and am still around.   Active moderation helps to keep this a site I can refer young kids and their parents to.  It is rather like learning a new game, folks help you by explaining the rules as you go along.

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4 hours ago, Duckkisser said:

At this point would not be surprised if I get dinged for this post.  Frankly I have been turned off using this forum.

Don’t worry we’ve all been moderated an sent warnings or had posts deleted, 

the excessive quote trim is a simple fix!

instead of quoting the whole post just trim it down to the relevant part,

example, is like I did just now, instead of quoting your whole post I cut out a specific piece:D

Please don’t be put off, it just takes a little bit to get the swing of how things work here! Soon you’ll be off to the races;)

there’s a wealth of information posted by hundreds if not thousands of years of combined experience! We’d hate to see you leave!

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4 hours ago, Duckkisser said:

didn’t think quoting someone twice is excessive.

One of the reasons for not quoting posts just prior to your reply is (1) we have already read those posts and the quote makes us reread them. (2) We have members worldwide that still have to rely upon dial up internet service and/or pay extra for data and quotes do use data/bandwidth, especially long quotes that contain pictures.

That is the reason for trimming down a quote like I did for yours. As far as being issued a "warning" without any points attached, it is a quirk of the software and the only way for a moderator to let members know something was amiss with the post, like posting in the wrong section.

Just think if everyone posted everything in General Blacksmithing how over loaded that section would become and as far as language is concerned that is strictly moderated and for one I'm happy about that, even though I have to be really careful when posting and remember not everyone likes to read my sailors jargon.

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So, getting back on track. After half a century working as a welder (thirty years of it as a multi-certified mirror welder), I have never put together a single heating tool, using it--not one. You will find welding to be a common technique on commercial equipment, because it saves time in rapidly slapping parts together; not because its needed, or even a good idea. I have pop-riveted, screwed, and trapped parts in place, only. "Anything I can do, you can do better."

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Back in the nineteen forties cars got bulkier and and started getting chromed parts all over the place. In the fifties, they got tail fins...

Lots of commercial forges are made from way too thick and heavy steel plate. Why? to give buyers the feeling that they're getting their moneys worth; not because it's needed. Some forges are being constructed of stainless-steel. Why? to make them into a Sparkly. Is there an advantage to stainless steel? Yes, but outside of burner parts, S.S. is a very minor advantage for maintenance. But a SPARKLY is a major advantage to sales...

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