Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Wide Bar Stock


Recommended Posts

This is probably a really stupid question whos answer is obvious but I am overlooking it, in which case I apologize.

I had bought some bar stock from NJSB about 2 months ago and when I went out to start to mess with stuff released I ordered two bars of 1084 that are 2.5" wide and two bars of 15N20 that are 3". I don't own a band saw and would rather not try to use an angle grinder to split them in half width wise, so apart from taking the time to painstakingly forge them down and draw them out to make them less wide, any idea what I could do with them? I thought about trying to possibly hot cut, but doing that for the width sounded silly.

Aside from a cleaver or using them for stock removal (but again, no kind of saw available to me), what in the world could I use stock this wide for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had thought about that, but I quickly dismissed it since I have yet to really come close to making a successful knife and have only tried forge welding once (without success). It may seem though that if I want to use this material at all, I just might have to bite the bullet and give it a go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Out of curiosity, what's wrong with splitting a piece in half with an angle grinder? Or a hacksaw if that's your cup of tea. Clamp a piece of scrap steel on there and use it as a guide. An angle grinder isn't a precision cutting tool, but you can cut straight lines with it. You also don't have to split the whole bar in half at once, just whatever you need for the task at hand.

A hot cut would also do just fine. And from a material conservation standpoint it's way to go. If you're like me and your straight lines occasionally wander off (even with the rocker edge), mark out a straight line and make your first pass while the bar is cold. Your chisel will stay on track much easier if you have a groove to follow.

If it's your first go, split a test piece first!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New steel comes fully annealed. :rolleyes: A 18tpi hack saw blade will make short work of splitting that even if you have to cut from both ends to clear the saw frame. It'd take me 2, MAYBE 3 minutes if I had to follow a line precisely.

I've never taken a hack saw to 15N20 so I don't know it, you MIGHT need a bimetal hacksaw blade. MAYBE.

So, unless you did something silly like heat it to red and quench it it's not a challenge for a metal shop 1 student. EZ PZ, basic shop skills is all it needs.

Remember to use the hack saw correctly. They only cut on the "push" stroke, apply firm, NOT HARD, down pressure on the push and let it float or lift slightly on the back stroke. If you apply pressure on the back stroke you'll roll the teeth and dull it almost instantly. 

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a handful of bimetal blades for my sawzall, but it might rattle the teeth out of my head lol. I will probably use it to cut the pieces into smaller, more manageable lengths, then give hot cutting a try since I have never done it. I have overcomplicated the living daylights out of this.

EDIT:

Now that I think about it, I have several used/burnt up sawzall blades laying around. Wonder if I can do anything with them. Must do research.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not if you do it right. What do you have against hack saws, too much like work?

Trying to hot cut it will remove using a saw as  possibility. Annealing is MUCH more finicky than using a hack saw.

Frosty The Lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing against them at all! I just don't currently have one for metal and only PVC :rolleyes:

Funny side story, whenever I wanted to help my late grandfather in the wood shop when I was younger, he would make me cut the boards to length and such with a hacksaw instead of a table saw because, and I quote "If you can't do it with the hand tool, you have no right to use a powered tool".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And then ther is mounting a section of metal cutting bandsaw blade in a bow saw generally used for wood cutting. I punch the holes a mithe closer together to get more tension and then you have the super hack saw.  What I used to cut the rail this tine ran on---tedious; but not difficult!

MarcoBorromeiForkLiftTineAnvil.jpg.77082b64e3c301093caf4c1c210e98c0.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All but ultra cheap'O hacksaws can rotate the blade.

Speaking of adapting hacksaws. I wonder what it'd take to modify a bicycle (or two) to make a pedal bandsaw? Once we got that one developed we could start looking at Harleys. :ph34r:

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...