Stradawhovious Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 So, I’m hand sanding a blade for the first time. So far so good, but the area around the plunge grind is giving me fits as far as making all the lines even. Any advice on how to finish out sanding around this area? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 I've never tried to mirror polish a blade before but I've sanded a lot of other things and to get into weird corners etc I use blocks with sandpaper attached. If I can't get into the corner with a block I use pin files. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 One trick I just picked up for sanding into tight corners is to use abrasive nail files, available for cheap from your local beauty supply store. These go up to about 600 grit, if memory serves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhitee93 Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 There isn't an "Easy" way that I know of. Wrap the abrasive paper around something with a sharp corner, drag it down the face of the plunge, and then straight out towards the tip of the blade is one smooth movement. Resist the urge to rub "up and down" the plunge line from spine to belly because it makes even more scratches to get out. Plastic door shims make for a nice thing to wrap the paper around. Sometimes I loose patience, and jamb the paper into the corner with a push stroke from further out on the blade. This works pretty well too, but makes J swirls that you have to sand out later. Because you are using such a small area of the paper, you have to keep moving to a fresh section every few strokes. I find it helps to sand that area first. Once you get it to where you like it for a particular grit, sand the rest of the blade to the same grit level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stradawhovious Posted April 15, 2021 Author Share Posted April 15, 2021 Thanks all! Certainly good advice here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 Riffler files are your best friend, and dont forget to make a safe edge where necessary on your files Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 On 4/15/2021 at 10:01 AM, JHCC said: One trick I just picked up for sanding into tight corners is to use abrasive nail files Do you mean disposable emery boards or nail files like these? I've been using both for small stuff for years but never thought they'd be rigid enough for removing much metal. I use emery boards frequently to clean oxidation from the electric ignition for the dryers at work. They work great for that. I never really considered using them to remove metal because of how flimsy they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 The disposable emery boards. They are flexible and I wouldn't recommend them for large areas, but still good for smaller bits that are hard to reach in other ways. Fine sandpaper glued to tongue depressors also works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Ignition files work great, made of metal. May take some time to find them now days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 When I get to that point, I use my buffing wheel with red rouge. Just have to be careful and not let the blade grab the buff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Run the wheel so it goes OFF the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 16, 2021 Share Posted April 16, 2021 Absolutely, I should have mentioned that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 15 hours ago, pnut said: . I use emery boards frequently to clean oxidation from the electric ignition for the dryers at work 10 hours ago, Glenn said: Ignition files work great, made of metal. Didn't know there was such a thing. I'll have to look into it. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 You may have heard the term adjusting or replacing the *points, plugs, and condenser* during a tune up. Ignition files were used to file the ignition breaker points, when cars used breaker points in the ignition system. Look around and see who has a smile on their face. Ask them what BTDC and dwell means. Sigh, the stuff your exposed to on a blacksmithing site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 I wouldnt dwell on it,,, its kinda pointless. BTDC,,, behind the danged curve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 Before Top Dead Center (ignition timing) and the length of time the points are closed to charge the condenser & ignition coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnut Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 I haven't had a vehicle with points since the early nineties. I think the last one I owned was a 84 El Camino. It's good to jog the memory now and again. My memory has been giving me some trouble the last few days. I've been forgetting or confusing one thing for another pretty often lately. Hmm. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhitee93 Posted April 17, 2021 Share Posted April 17, 2021 Just had to dress the points on an old tiller last week. The last car I had to do that with was a '72 Spitfire, but I was still driving that car until 6 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 I don't miss the timing light! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 Hey, I drive an old willys, what can i say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 There are several promising new treatments for that. Lots of willys out here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 I have an old Willy's too, a 1953 M38A1 Overland, they are hard to kill. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/52610-jeep-willys-lovers/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 Very cool. Heres mine doing what willys do best. I have 2. This '62 and a '47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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