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cane bolts, holding in position

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So has anybody made cane bolts for locking a door in place?  What I'm curious about is how to hold the cane in either the up or down position.  If the bolt is on the upper part of the door so that the cane is pushed up to lock, should there be something other than friction to hold it in place?  In some cases I think you can hook the handle over something, but what about when that's not allowed either by desire or design?

You mean like a spring with detents in the bolt to actually hold it at specific locations rather than just light spring pressure to hold it anywhere in it's travel?

I cut a keyway in the upper mount in the center (farthest from the door. I then fashion a pin (usually an allen head cap srew). In the down position the pin locks the bolt down.

To open one must swing the bolt to align the pin with the keyway and lift, then lock it open by swinging the cane handle against the door. This is a pretty simple solution for me.

  • Author

Yeah, springs, balls, or some other kind of friction.  I'm looking for something that requires no thought from the user.

Why reinvent the wheel. Use what is already out there, or make your own.  As shown holds it up, reverse to hold it in the down position.

cane bolt.jpg

Forgive my crude drawing but how about this? Cross drill the bolt so a roll pin will go through it. Put a spring in between roll pin and mounting bracket. Pull down and the bolt releases. On the receiving part if a wedge is added it will act as a piece to push down the pin so no effort to close. You could even make a sleeve to conceal the spring and pin. Also i would make a ring on the bottom to pull rather than the arm. 

20200801_111744.thumb.jpg.cde227ef4aa8cd00563d07c27b591630.jpg

  • Author

I've discovered that ball detents are readily available and reasonably priced.  The bolt I need to make for a customer calls for using rectangular 1/4" x 1/2" stock.

Thanks everyone for the ideas.

Joe

I can bend 1/4x1/2 with my fingers. When you add the leverage of a door...

Arftist and I do it the same. It's simple and quick.

If i use a spring, I do not use a coil spring. I make a small flat spring from "potato planter belt" about 1/8" thick, put in a small arc, and temper for a spring.

I then fuller a flat recess into the backplate for the spring to live in. Done deal.

  • Author

1/4 x 1/2 is what the customer wants.  It is stronger than you might think over short distances.  Also the door it will go onto is only 1" thick and old wood.

Well, it can be a hard choice. 1/4"x1/2" is pretty light. It will look thin and wispy. It is easily bent. 

No matter that it is what your client wants, guess who gets the blame when both the above happens.

The one in my basement door is counterweighted. The ones on the shop doors are spring loaded, with a chain pull to un lock them.

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