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I Forge Iron

Soliciting sanity check before I light this new forge


picker77

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Thanks, Mikey. Got the tank proximity safety issue taken care of (now have 18' of super duty Parker SS25UL LPG hose between the forge cart and tank), but nobody had yet answered the flame shape/color question. I was beginning to wonder if it was so bad that everyone was avoiding talking about it, lol! I also added front and back sliding "barn doors" made from hard firebrick splits cut in half. Not sure yet exactly how to place them (how close to the front/back openings, how much of a breathing hole to maintain, etc.), but I will figure that out.

I have some Matrikote coming from Wayne, would it be beneficial to use it to coat the floor (5/8" Cordierite kiln shelf), and/or the rigid ceramic fiber board walls & ceiling? I also have some standard powdered kiln wash available if needed.

The forge itself appeared to work perfectly right out of the box (a testament to Diamondback's design and build quality), so I don't want to start fixing what ain't broke -- but the Matrikote, at least on the kiln shelf floor, seemed like it might be a good idea. When I finally do get around to welding, I want to minimize flux damage, and I had some idea in my mind that Matrikote would help with that.

 

Parker SS25UL  LPG Hose.jpg

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1 hour ago, picker77 said:

I was beginning to wonder if it was so bad that everyone was avoiding talking about it,

On the contrary, from my point of view it looked as good or better than any single port burner I ever made or tuned.  It seemed to me that you had that aspect well in hand and there was no need for improvement - at least not anything within my limited knowledge of the subject.  That's why I said you should be able to forge weld by trapping a bit more of the heat.  From my point of view your heat source is golden; time to mash some metal!

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Matrikote or Plistex; that is the question :)

And part of that question will overlap your own questions about where any particular product works out best. Bottom line is, neither one (or any of the various forms of kiln wash) is the vary best choice in every possible circumstance. So much depends on how you choose to run your forge; it boils down to an individual decision, that must be formed over quite a bit of time. The good news is that all your choices are both cheap and interchangeable. Using one product won't prevent your application of others. So, experiment and take notes. Maybe next year, you will be telling us what's what :D

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Thanks, Mikey. Glad to hear there's not too much to worry about regarding compatibility between the available coatings. Picked up some practice steel today, looking forward to heating it up and beating on it. Just as soon as our heat index gets below 100 degrees, that is. ha.

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Made a few last minute tweaks to the cart setup related to operating convenience and LPG safety, and thank you to all the helpful suggestions from members in those areas. There is now 18' of Parker super-hose between me and the tank, and the tank itself will permanently live in a weather-sheltered alcove just outside that man-door in the photos. Plenty of length with the new hose to allow reasonable freedom of movement for the cart, and I honestly doubt you could cut that hose in one swing with a fire axe. It took the propane dealer a while to cut it using an air-powered cutoff tool. It is very tough stuff. Also added front and back basic sliding door to help trap heat, plus a better front support for heating longer stock. I will probably coat the kiln shelf floor and maybe the walls with Matrikote yet before I'm done, since that's easy to do and I have the Matrikote in hand, but I need to study up on mixing and applying it. Lastly, I finally had some time to dress my small selection of old & new hammers (photos in hammer forum). About ready to actually launch this thing and beat some iron. Only problem right now is motivation, 102 degree temps accompanied by ugly humidity levels make me lean toward the A/C instead of the shop. It's August in Oklahoma and I'm used to it after all these many years, but that doesn't make it any more pleasant.

 

DSC01171.JPG

DSC01169.JPG

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Looks great to me.  When I forge in these ambient temperatures and humidity I usually have a fan pointed at me and across the opening of the forge, and I find that helps a lot. I don't like running extension cords, but it's worth it to me when the temps are in the 90's or above.  Hydration is still an issue, and if you start feeling lethargic or notice you're making small errors in judgment when moving things in and out of the forge it's time to stop for a while.  Also if your hammer control and accuracy start to suffer that's another good sign that it's time to stop before causing an injury or making permanent mistakes in your work.  Don't fall prey to the "I'm almost done.  Just another 15 minutes and then I'll quit" type of thinking.  In my experience that's usually when accidents, close calls, or really annoying mistakes happen.

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Thanks, Buzzkill, and I hear you loud and clear. I'm often guilty of staying in the shop an extra hour to "finish up" something when I know I'm already too tired, and at my age I pay the piper later, especially the next morning. My mind still thinks I'm 45, but my body knows dang well better.

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Yeah, I try to stay off the cutting edge drugs and ignore the "legal groups" trying to scare folk into retaining a lawyer in case you develop genital GANGRENE :o or worse. I don't believe ANYTHING with a huge mice type disclaimer that's up for less time than it takes to scan a sentence. 

The way medical science is advancing I expect Doc McCoy to walk by one day, swipe his tricorder over me and give me a pill that fixes everything or maybe just grow me a 25 yr old body. 

Still I hobble around for a while after an hour in a car/RV/pickup seat and it takes time to get going when I roll out of bed. 

Beats the alternative though. 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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