1981Eagle Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 I picked up an M&H Mouse Hole Forge - it's 1.0.10 (122 lbs) My research is that it may be 1830 to 1835 era. It has a line across the top that is not a crack, but looks like a score mark when maybe someone used a grinding wheel across the face and went through the stock into the face ... but that's just a guess. It does not appear to be deep at all, right at the surface. For those in the know ... did these anvils have a steel face? I do not see a line that looks like there is, but I am not sure. Or were they one-piece wrought? I paid a little more than I wanted to, but I drove all that way and the seller wouldn't budge on the price I'm thinking of having the top ground to resurface and I don't think it's 'bad' enough to need to be welded and filled before grinding. I want to use it for small projects and maybe eventually knife-making if I get the chance. Comments welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 Do not, I repeat, DO NOT grind on that top. That line won't bother your work at all. You've got an enviable chunk of anvil there, don't mess it up. Heck, if someone steels it some day you'll be able to tell the police it has a tell-tale stripe on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1981Eagle Posted July 25, 2019 Author Share Posted July 25, 2019 OK ... I was 'waffling' about it anyway What is the 'best' way to remove any surface rust and old paint ... and how do you preserve them and keep them from rusting? I guess what I am asking is the best method of 'preservation' that is both 'sound' and 'historically respectful' to the history of the piece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 Give it a good wire brushing (NO GRINDING), coat it with some boiled linseed oil and hammer on it! Good looking old Mousehole...use it respectfully, and enjoy it. Get hold of a copy of Richard Postman's book, Mousehole Forge. You'll enjoy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laynne Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 I have a 149 pounder of the same vintage. Yes they have a steel face plate. 15 minutes ago, arkie said: Get hold of a copy of Richard Postman's book, Mousehole Forge. You'll enjoy it. Definitely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 Yup, wire brush on an r-angle grinder and typical blacksmith's finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 Actually the older ones had a multi piece steel face forge welded on piece by piece and that line looks exactly like some I have seen where the weld wasn't top notch at one interface and so wears faster than the "meat of the plate". So not terribly unusual and nothing to be excited about. The best way to smooth and polish the face is to forge a lot of hot steel on it and it will polish up beautifully. How to keep it from rusting? Since you must live out in the desert South West of the USA like I do; you don't need to do anything to keep it from rusting. The dry environment will suit it fine. (Or without telling us the conditions it will be in; how are we supposed to figure out what it will need to counter them?--- Sorry I'm a bit grumpy; back hurting as I'm loading furniture and books by myself moving back to my central NM domicile.) Your first picture shows the face weld line on the side, clearest above the start of the first stamping on it. You got a good one; use it in good health! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 The "best way" would depend upon where in the world you are located due to regulations. Another factor would be what resources are at your disposal like do you have access to a large tank for electrolysis or soaking it in 10% white vinegar? Do you have the proper PPE to use a wire brush on an angle grinder? Do you have access to a sand blaster? Do you want to spend money on commercial products (Naval Jelly or Evap-O-Rust etc. So many variables. Myself I would go with what arkie & Chris said, cupped wire wheel & angle grinder, after cleaning wipe it down with BLO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1981Eagle Posted July 25, 2019 Author Share Posted July 25, 2019 Thanks for the replies. I live in Virginia by the way. I think that 'resurfacing' an anvil is a lot like planing wood - too easy to take it off and imposible to un-do what you did ... once done. So I'll resist that thought and just enjoy the fact that its about 185 years old and it has earned the charicter is has. Next up .... a fitting stand for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les L Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 Thomas, thanks for the information on how the face was welded on, I looked at my MH this weekend and can barely make out the weld line where the two pieces are welded together. I probably would have never noticed it, but if I had it would have driven me crazy thinking the face had been arc welded on by someone doing repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1981Eagle Posted July 29, 2019 Author Share Posted July 29, 2019 1 hour ago, Les L said: Thomas, thanks for the information on how the face was welded on, I looked at my MH this weekend and can barely make out the weld line where the two pieces are welded together. I probably would have never noticed it, but if I had it would have driven me crazy thinking the face had been arc welded on by someone doing repairs. I agree ... now, when I see other Mouse Hole anvils, I am seeing that same line on many photos of them .... and mine is still forge-welded tightly and it seems to be very solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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