June 23, 20196 yr Hey I’m new to forging and wanted to know if what I’m experiencing is normal the coating that came with the forge I put on is cracking and outside around where the burner goes is turning white any help or advice would be very appreciated Picture of the forge
June 23, 20196 yr Welcome... Have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST I don't have any experience with the Devil forge, but it's normal for the paint to burn off the outer shell and small cracks to appear in the ridigizer in most forges.
June 23, 20196 yr … not sure what your coating is - looks to be a matrikote or some such painted right on a 2" blanket wrap. As it goes through heat cycles - it WILL shrink and expand a bit - a good chance through use- the blanket will stabilize, and successive recoats may hold without cracking out down the road. Be sure it is super dry - and then cure the finish coat at moderate heat for short bursts, and it may help. ANY moisture left in the coating or sucked into the insulation will make the problem worse... not that it appears actually problematic - yet... Everything needs time to settle itself into "normal" from cold to super hot cycles.
June 23, 20196 yr My forge is a devil forge. I found that the coating that comes with is really in line with the cost of the forge (kinda cheap). A layer of Kast-o-lite is probably I good idea for longevity.
June 23, 20196 yr A few inexpensive coats of Plistex, before things get worse, might be a wise investment.
June 24, 20196 yr Apply kiln washes and low quality refractories in thin coats and allow to dry between but butter (spritz with water) before the first or next coat. Frosty The Lucky.
June 26, 20196 yr Late to the party, but I agree with Event... The coating they ship you falls fully into the "no bueno" side of things. I mean, it's probably ok to rigidize the wool, but in no way shape or form should it be classified as a refractory. I have a 2 burner square DF that I actually relined not too far back. And I'm tweaking that lining further. It's kaowool, kast-o-lite 30, and a topcoat of IR reflective. I made it a little too small, so I ripped out the sides (and most of the top came with... c'est la vie) and re-rigidized the exposed wool. Tomorrow I'll slap on the KOL and let it do it's thing. It's functional, but it's just too narrow. So now I eat my crow when I said I didn't see myself working with anything wider than 4"... My bolt tongs are wider than 4". But back on track... Get yourself some real refractory and you'll be solid. A little extra on top of your investment already, but this will be a few steps closer to optimized.
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