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Made a anvil stand!


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Ah Darlin, wish you'd asked first. That'll do for a stand but it's easy to make better by standing the lumber on end. The fewer the joints between anvil and the planet the better the anvil will perform. If it's close to the right height for you you can up it's game some by removing the plywood. Typically between wrist and knuckle high while standing relaxed next to it in the shoes you work in, is good. You'll tweak it to what works best for you as you learn what works best for you. Another thought for that one, if you screwed it together you could unscrew it all and apply a little wood glue between the boards and screw it back together. don't get fancy, Elmer's white will work nicely but Elmer's wood glue, Weldwood or Liquid Nails are a bit better. Don't lay on a bunch of glue or it will take up space and act as a cushion reducing effectiveness.

Don't sweat it though, this one will work fine for now. Next one stand the lumber on end, 4 x 4" are "club" favorites but you can use 2" x 6" or 10" or 12", etc. Screw and glue, banding around the top works nicely and the options for hammer and tong racks are many. 

You can also leave some planks longer to contain the anvil and making handy shelves for tools you're using at the time. 

When you get access to a welder and some salvaged (scrounged) steel take another look through the anvil stand section for inspiration. My anvils are on steel tripods. 

Next time you see  something on Youtube look for the same topic here or ask, lots of what's uploaded on Youtube has no other qualification than a camera and ISP.  The "Make Everything" guy(s?) are competent enough builders but they regularly offer how tos for things they've never used or made for others so while well made are often poorly designed.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Every joint between the anvil and solid contact with the ground can provide a bit more bounce in the system. so that has 10 joints?

Here is an example that has 2: anvil to wood, wood to floor Not nearly as pretty but it's oak and the total cost was under US$1.anvilstand1crop.jpg.1e95810b35b26b3fedfa28a6d7699107.jpg

Youtube is full of really bad information---that's where we get so many people who build a gas forge lined with plaster of paris---which starts to degrade 1000 degF BELOW forging temps.  So if you don't know how to evaluate such videos---best to ask...

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Show me your anvil stands has over 570 posts discussing anvil stands.

Your anvil stand will work, but can be improved by raising the height of the anvil by the thickness of a couple of 2x4s. The target height is about knuckle to wrist high.  It can then be fine tuned in height according to the type project you work on. 

The hold down is a good idea but the sharp ends, and the threaded bolt will tear into any flesh that gets near. Reversing the bolt so the bolt head is on top of the hold down will fix that. Grind the ends of the square tubing smooth and then cover them with a tennis ball.  As you pack any material to eliminate air pockets and make it more dense, add only a few inches of material at time and pack each layer before adding more material. The difference in material needed to fill the same space is surprising. 

As you learn, ask questions and get many opinions from many sources. You will find better ways to do things. 

Bottom line is your anvil stand will work. We make suggestions so it can work better.  

 

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We're getting a bit fussy; but most of that is due to folks on youtube misleading people.  I have used a hollow log as an anvil stand for historical demos where I wanted the appearance but not the weight of a log stand.  Of course back in my shop they were on solid stands or steel.

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Wait....were not supposed to use plaster of Paris for our forges!?!?!

 Mines right between knuckle and wrist height.

 And I did grind down the edges of the square tube. Who leaves sharp edges? Lol.

Thanks for all the Input , I would like to do a metal stand in the future but I had all the wood lying around for this. I was just out the 8 bucks for the sand.

Worse comes to worse I'll just blow it up with some tannerite!!!

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Interesting concept.  It should work well for quite some time!  I'm glad you put the plywood on top.  Those mounting bolts could eventually split the boards they go through.

People have used worse stands and there is always a better stand to build. 

I made a simple temporary stand all out of scrap wood I had.  Basically an H-pattern out of 6 pieces of 2x8 and some ply just to test height.  I only had a circular saw to cut so the lengths were not precise and the wood was a bit twisted so I used a power planer to level out the ends.  Is it ideal?  No but it didn't cost me anything.

TempStand.JPG.216889b11b6ce01a561c3369268dc31d.JPG

Now go forth and forge!

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if anyone wants a youtube video on making a decent stand, check for "How To Make an Anvil Stand : My Favorite DIY Anvil Stand"

You will not need to buy any plans, it is all self explanatory. A bit long winded, but the end result is what counts. :)

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Back in the days when I was still a warf smith at the IJsselmeer I remember a nice spell that was engraved (by a wise fisherman) in the door below the deck of an old wooden fishing ship. "If our dear lord had wanted to have polyester boats, he would also have grown polyester trees". I remember this saying every time I see a concrete or plywood anvil stand passing by in some IFI posts ;).

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