September 30, 20187 yr The 100 mm long blade was forged from 1.2516 (120WV4) round stock. Bolsters and pins are copper and mammoth for the handle slabs. Overall length is 225 mm. Cheers
September 30, 20187 yr she is a real beauty. very nice lines. Do you have any concern about the scales extending beyond the tang as it pertains to durability?
September 30, 20187 yr Great proportions, and I love the attention to detail. Nicely-composed photos, too. How did you make the narrow parallel grooves? Saw blade with no set on the teeth, perhaps? The consistency of the depth and spacing of the grooves suggests the use of some kind of jig/fixture for repeatability. Al (Steamboat)
October 2, 20187 yr Author Thank you very much for the fine comments, Gentlemen! They are appreciated a lot On 9/30/2018 at 11:04 PM, MotoMike said: she is a real beauty. very nice lines. Do you have any concern about the scales extending beyond the tang as it pertains to durability? Over the years I just getting frustrated with the shrinkage of so many natural handle materials.Using artificial stuff was never a option because I dont like them. Here in the tropics those materials tend to swell up, because of the high humidity. But in Europe with cold dry winters they all dwindling sooner or later, the more or less. In knife making I always welcome making the need a virtue. This was the best solution.It is much more effort to make but its worth it. So to answer Your question, IMHO this enhances durability, feels extremly good to grip and looks more beautiful to me.
October 2, 20187 yr Author On 10/1/2018 at 12:35 AM, Steamboat said: Great proportions, and I love the attention to detail. Nicely-composed photos, too. How did you make the narrow parallel grooves? Saw blade with no set on the teeth, perhaps? The consistency of the depth and spacing of the grooves suggests the use of some kind of jig/fixture for repeatability. Al (Steamboat) I used a coarse checkering file like the guy uses in this video.To start a guiding jig is needed like he did.You can do this with wood, clamps or even with a piece of wood super glued to the tang(without scales) It took me some time of practice to understand and to feel the moves. Because if Your bolsters have even the slightest taper the grooves will get a different depth.Then You have to lift the file on one side very carefully and file on.The better Your bolster forming is the better the grooves turn out. The two sides of the file have differences , so use only the same side of the file, do not flip it over and never file from the opposite direction! I use one side for Steel and iron and the other for non-ferrous metals like copper, bone and wood. Be nice to Your file cos those files are not cheap, costing about 40-50 Euros( +/- $) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZ1F7pM-x78
October 2, 20187 yr 1 hour ago, templehound said: IMHO this enhances durability, feels extremly good to grip and looks more beautiful to me. Fair enough TH. I was thinking of bushcrafting type knives that might routinely get battened through kindling or such and thought the tank being at least even with, or even just a bit proud of the scale would enhance durability in such abusive situations. I certainly agree that it is beautiful
October 2, 20187 yr 7 hours ago, templehound said: I used a coarse checkering file like the guy uses in this video.To start a guiding jig is needed like he did.You can do this with wood, clamps or even with a piece of wood super glued to the tang(without scales) Thanks, Templehound, I see how it was done now. What tooth profile does your checkering file have? In the photos, the grooves in the bolster appear to have parallel sides (or at least very steep sides), rather than a pronounced V profile, but maybe that's because of the way the grooves taper down at the ends so that the V profile isn't obvious at the ends of the grooves. In any case, I think it's a very attractive accent feature. Again, really excellent work on the knife! Al (Steamboat)
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