I can't get a reverse twist to be nice like in the attached photo (Took it from a post by AUSHIN. hope it's ok to use it).

The circle marks the point where the twist changes direction. How do you get this turn to be short and sharp like in this photo ?

When I got to the second twist, I tried holding the bar (at that point) with a wrench, but obviously, the width of the wrench was a problem.

I made a special wrench that was thin. but it dug into the soft bar.

What's the trick?

 

Differential cooling.

Using a gas axe (oxy propane Torch) is the best way of controlling the twists and the only way to get them really flowing into one another by leaving a controlled amount of heat in the previous twist that is very slightly untwisted by the action of the next twist done in the opposite direction.

Greetings Lyuv,

         As Glenn and Basher pointed out local heat control . Just heat the bar than cool the parts that you don’t want to twist by dribbling water on it and it will work just fine . Done it thousands of times. 

Forge on and make beautiful things 

Jim

 

And remember that localized cooling works best with non-hardening metals (mild steel, wrought iron, etc). There’s a theoretical possibility of cracking when done with higher carbon steels, same as with cooling the reins of spring steel tongs.  Approach with caution. 

Agreed with all.  Heat control is the key.  I do my best to ensure that the steel is all the same color.  I also use a very narrow old wrench that can grab the steel right at the point where the counter twist happens.  There is another way, though, and it is brilliant!

Check out this video by John Bennet.  His jig is an excellent alternative.

https://youtu.be/EQzk6ydsP6Y

 

Lou

I just had the pleasure of spending a few hours with Mr. Bennet on Saturday. Good learning experience........Life is Good       Dave

On 7/8/2018 at 11:07 AM, basher said:

a controlled amount of heat in the previous twist that is very slightly untwisted by the action of the next twist done in the opposite direction.

That's the trick in a nutshell. I don't think gas torches are the only way of making them really flow though. You can easily do it in a forge by spot quenching, you just need to stop your quench a little short of the mark to give yourself time to get to the vise & get the wrench on as the heat will continue to drain out slowly.