Davishomesteadandforge Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 The man who owned this forge died in the 1980s he used it before electrucity came to oklahoma in 1937 he inherited it from his father it was the main forge in the dibble/Blanchard Washington region for a long time how long I'm not sure. Any ideas of the origin before that or how to restore it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Looks like a home made forge using a factory made forge pot and tuyere. You could probably get it working again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davishomesteadandforge Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 The rust isn't too bad I think it would just come off with use the tuyere is unmountable as is so I'm trying to decide if I want to drill out the original bolts or make a track system to mount it. Is the little turny thing inside a air control or a clunker breaker you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Probably a clinker breaker. Little hard to tell in the photo. It probably wouldn't be hard to fab up some 2" black pipe into a T to mount to the bottom of the fire pot, or same effort to get the original hooked back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davishomesteadandforge Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 I'm thinking drill out old bolts then jbweld some all thread into the forge and thread it through the blower and bolt it on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Don't know how JB weld would hold up with the heat. I'd say drill and tap it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Greetings Davis, What you have is a Champion Wirlwind fire pot . The clinker beaker is an odd shaped ball arrangement with fingers that stick up through the slots. Not so easy to make.. I have a few but no pictures at this time. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davishomesteadandforge Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 12 minutes ago, Jim Coke said: Greetings Davis, What you have is a Champion Wirlwind fire pot . The clinker beaker is an odd shaped ball arrangement with fingers that stick up through the slots. Not so easy to make.. I have a few but no pictures at this time. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Just looked it up and I think your 100% right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 8, 2018 Share Posted May 8, 2018 Are the bolt holes blind or do they do all the way threw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davishomesteadandforge Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 18 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said: Are the bolt holes blind or do they do all the way threw? All the way through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 I have had good luck torching out steel bolts in cast iron automotive parts, then chasing the slag with a tap. The mas of the cast protects the threads from heat. Note, your mileage may very Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davishomesteadandforge Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 Do you just use an oxy acetylene or propane? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 Rule of thumb when working with any rusty, stripped, broken, or stubborn bolts or studs, " always start with the least invasive method first." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 I have always used acetylene. But as I said, your mileage may very. Ash, water, heat, time... if those suckers are broken off flush the boy is going to have to get radical, lol. If your a competent machinist, a file to clean up and flatten the broken bolt and delineate the hole, a perfectly centered punch and drilling out to just under tap size and retap works to. Some how I doubt a screw extractor will work. Heating th casting to red may work by converting the rust to scale but who knows. Das is right, tho. The method with the least likelyhood of destructive failer is a good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 You need to be good with a cutting torch to cut out a bolt without damaging the female threads taking a nut off a bolt is good practice but a lot easier. Another good method for breaking rusty components loose from each other is warm them up and soak them in water. Water made the rust, it's water soluble water will break the bonds. Warming up the rusted components and I do mean WARM fresh coffee MAX aids in capillary penetration and the expansion contraction of the thermal cycle crushes the rust bond. It's the least destructive method I know of, safer than wrenching by far. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted May 9, 2018 Share Posted May 9, 2018 KROIL is excellent for rusted bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Kroil is my go to also. I have made my own penetrating oil with a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. It works as well as Kroil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davishomesteadandforge Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 Even if i could derust them that's what they mostly are lol I wouldn't even have a place to grab them. I'm thinking drill them out then use long carriage bolts all the way through thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 That would probably work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davishomesteadandforge Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 Other then avoiding zinc any tips on blot selection? just a plain steel bolt should work even with it being in the forge right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Steel bolts acualy melt at a higher temp than cast iron. Many old forges came original with acorn headed bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Plain steel bolts, any plating is potentially dangerous. You can remove galvy in a vinegar bath over night. Rinse, neutralize with baking soda, rinse again and it's clean bare steel and safe in the fire. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 Stainless bolts take high temps better than plain steel does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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