eseemann Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Good Morning all, I about about ready to weld on a hardy plate on to my forklift anvil and I need to ask your advice. I know that a weld resulting from a 7018 rod will not be the same type of work surface as the forklift steel and as it stands I have 2 chunks welded together that weigh at least #65 or #70. I would like to know if you think I should Weld a RR Tie plate on the top of the work surface giving me a single hardness over the entire face but risk the effects of an air gap between the plate and the rest of the steel. not worry about the weld and use full 12/odd inches of mass for down and and the 7 by 4 inch face. Use it like a striker anvil that has a 7 inches by 12 odd inches face is around 4 odd inches tall and risk the air gap where the 2 plates are welded together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasent Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 I would use it vertically and make a separete portable hole for a hardy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Loose the tie plate, use vertically like Jasent said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 The only good thentie plate is as either tool steel or tool plate installed on a separate stump. Welding the plate on top (unless you are prepared to reach in all the way and weld it solid from the center out) is going backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Vertical alignment for the tines, weld the tie plate on the bottom to facilitate mounting to a base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Remember to preheat the tines when welding! They are quite large enough to autoquench and get HAZ cracking! Vertical no tie plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eseemann Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 Thanks all, I did not think it was that great an idea but I thought I should double check. I had good success welding a hardy plate with 1 inch plate (mild steel) gussets on the other part and I did do my pre-heat and sill have all my eyes, ears, fingers and toes. Thanks for the warning. I have to think being at ground zero when #80+ of steel cracks would be a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 I would also suggest that you keep the fork under 400F to maintain the factory heat treating. The manufacturers that got back with me said that they use 4XXX series steels like 4140 to make the tines. I would say leave it as a block, and make a stand that it can be rotated / tilted, etc so you can use all of the sides if need be. Make a portable hole, or use a vise to hold the bottom tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 No the rest of the steel will hold it together, you will just have a crack in the HAZ making it weaker no fireworks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eseemann Posted November 22, 2017 Author Share Posted November 22, 2017 Thanks for clearing that up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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