So I started to make a camp fork spoon. 

I haven’t dished the spoon part yet. Or cleaned it up. 

The fork tines were a huge pain to keep even. Is there an easier way? I made a cross shape and drew them out then bent them around. 

Any criticism is surely welcome.

Thats actually really cool, making something like that would have never crossed my mind. I think you did nice work there, the tines look good. 

Please update when you dish the spoon!

 

I still struggle with 3 tine forks. With two tines you can easily bend one out of the way, with three that middle one always seems to close and awkward. I find I work strange angles trying to draw out the tines  on 3 tine forks, then struggle to get them lined up nice.  What you have so far looks like it's working out. 

 

That struggle is probably why silver smiths cut them out. 

Fork tines , large or small start with flat stock fullerd evenly on both sides behind the tines, a small hole punched before spliting off the outer two also helps, even drifting a bit. Leave a bit more meat in each  outer tine. 

Now you can bend the outer tines out 90. From here some chalk marks help to draw your tines out even. A small brige anvil for the hardy helps a lot for finishing up and getting the tines even. 

 

"easier" isn't always a good choice of word when it comes to blacksmithing & can lead to contentious opinions. Drilling 3 holes then slitting up to them with a 1mm disc then forging the tines down is easier than whatever you feel the "traditional" method is.

If You are really good why not make a spork?

3 hours ago, mcostello said:

If You are really good why not make a spork?

I absolutely hate sporks!!

Thanks for the input. Charles and Joel, I will try the holes like you are saying. I cut the tines in with a hot cut and had to do a lot of filing to clean them up. I have to work today but should have it finished tonight. I will post more pictures. 

P.S I hate sporks too. 

Sporks, the idea that sounds good,just don't work good.

As with many a tool made to do multiple tasks, it does neither well. 

I use a cut off wheel to cut my tines as well but never drilled or punched the holes. Sounds like a good idea on the next one. 

For large ones a chainsaw file is useful to dress the end of the chiselling.

A very steady and experienced hand would negate the need for drilled or punched holes @Daswulf but sometimes a defined stopping point (i.e a hole) can help to keep things even when you're cutting up to a certain point.

Personally I don't really see the need to slavishly use traditional methods when the end result either doesn't give you a better product (functionally or aesthetically) than the quicker modern alternative.

If you've got to file off off the tapered ragged edge from a hot cut section so you can forge it down cleanlg without it cold shutting you're ultimately removing mass, which is just the same as cutting the stock with 1mm disc or horizontal bandsaw blade.

Personally I'd rather get better at forging than filing but I'm no purist so take my opinion with as big a pinch of salt as suits your tastes @BlasterJoe

The back saw has been around a long time. But practice wit the hit cut chisel minimizes the need for filing. 

Sometimes the destination is the main goal, Other times it's the journey. 

15 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Sometimes the destination is the main goal, Other times it's the journey. 

To quote Skinny Pete from Breaking Bad; "troo dat, troo dat".

im by no means a traditionalist. I am doing the clean up with a grinder and belt sander. I just find a hot cut and a file better for finer work. i Think the holes would help to make things a little more even.  If I had a more defined stopping point on the tines they would have turned out better. My eyeball is more of a problem than my hands if that makes sense. 

I think it looks fine. I would have drawn out the handle and forged it into an octagon shape or even round. It's an eating utensil, not a fighting tool.

The tines look nice and even, straight and all. Behind them looks really good and even, too. Good symmetry there. I can't think of a reason not to forge them to diameter, cut them to length and file them off if desired.

You should check out Brian Brazeal's videos on forging leaves and mushrooms. Use it as a reference to get the handle drawn down and spoon portion nicely made before you flatten it. 

Clean forging doesn't just look nice, it's easier and saves you time. Sometimes I'll fiddle around with getting a part situated in the tongs and on the anvil for 90% of a heat just to get one good accurate strike. Every hammer blow counts, and every miss creates more work for you later.

You're wise man, Blister Fingers.