Bill in Oregon

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Everything posted by Bill in Oregon

  1. That blower is just gorgeous. Congratulations on the spectacular cleaning job!
  2. Thomas -- love your idea about using wood that has been reduced to charcoal outside the forge itself.
  3. Yes, talking about charcoal, not briquettes. My third Tim Lively washtub forge. I really hate to use power with this, and will continue my quest for an affordable Champion or Buffalo blower. I tried one of those made-in-India blowers and it just doesn't put out the volume needed for my forge. Funny, they are all over Craigslists 500 or 1,000 miles from hear, but locally, nada.
  4. Thanks fellas. Dick, I'll take your lead on this if I can just locate a better hand-cranked blower for my charcoal forge.
  5. This has probably been exhaustively covered, but a search for "fire steel" pulls up hundreds of posts. I was thinking of forging a couple of fire steels for flint-and-steel fire starting from cold rolled, but also have some of the ubiquitous Nicholson files in my stash. What steels are optimum for this purpose and which might not work well at all? If you used an old file, who would you heat treat it?
  6. Steve, no, I didn't get to try one, but I surely liked the looks of them and he had a bunch in stock. I thought them reasonable as well. If I didn't have a decent old Trenton ...
  7. Great thread. Tempts me to make a barrel myself, probably using Gambel oak, one of the main hardwoods available in south-central New Mexico. I'll have to admit scavenging charcoal from slash and logging waste burn piles on national forests. Not the best stuff -- lots of conifer softwoods -- but for forging smaller stuff in a washtub forge, it worked just fine and the cost was agreeable.
  8. Columbia Fire and Iron held a hammer-in this weekend at the Morgan Jade Ironworks in Spokane, Wa. Got a very friendly tour of his shop and watched some newbies "getting the hang" of hot steel. Love seeing the gospel spread.
  9. Wondering if there is a way to treat or coat copper objects -- bracelets, for example -- so they do not react with human skin when worn. My understanding is that some folks' chemistry is more reactive than others'.
  10. Hello, Gordon. Imagine meeting my old British Militaria Forum chum over here.
  11. Frank, dang it I just moved from Pacific dogwood country ...
  12. Jasent: Thanks. Just a fine idea.
  13. Slag, I had forgotten about keeping a copper plate handy for an auxiliary anvil surface. So that is part of the answer for sure.
  14. This has probably been asked and answered a thousand times, but is there such a thing as a soft-faced hammer for cleaning up the lines of a piece of stock to which you have added twists that won't batter the twists? Hope I am "'splainin' dis" clearly. I have an "hide" hammer that will work but the hot iron quickly burns out the hide. Maybe something like this from Thor? https://www.thorhammer.com/hammers/hide/03-210.html
  15. John, that's just a wonderful piece. Bill in salem
  16. Glenn, thanks. I was looking at photos on the Michigan Dark House Angling Association Web site and saw spears with as few as four and as many as nine points, but the majority had seven. We don't have much ice fishing in Oregon , not to mention zero northern pike, but I was wondering about how to proceed nonetheless. Would you be splitting out the tines on a hot cut hardy?
  17. Thanks Smoothie. All I have is a cheap Harbor Freight wire welder ...
  18. I just discovered the world of "dark house" pike spearing and was wondering what the best way would be of forging a spear. Thinking some forge welding would have to be involved. Being from Oregon, I had no idea this fishing culture even existed.
  19. I'm just beginning to begin -- and have been stuck at this stage for years. Gives me a great excuse to keep rereading Lorelei Sims.
  20. Be proud, Yuppiejr. That's a really handsome shop you built. Must be very satisfying.
  21. Bought two of those Feit LEDs at Costco as well. Completely changed my garage for the better as a workplace.