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GrumpyBiker

Leg Vise Mount Advice Needed

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On 10/21/2017 at 2:04 AM, paradox1559 said:

Is that anvil made from the track seen earlier in the post? 

Yep, I added a tool rack to it.

its been a while since I've been on here.

been dealing with a couple ruptured disks....

 

IMG_6999.JPG

IMG_7002.JPG

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Bummer about the disks, I hope the solution isn't too extreme.  You're putting a nice smithy together there. You really need to try a vertically mounted rail anvil some time.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Grumpy biker I'm glad you made this thread.  I just scavenged for my own post vice and had no idea how to mount the dang thing......... Until now!!!  Now that I understand the mount design (mine was missing its mount as well) I just have to figure out where in my smithy I want the vice.  Has anyone here ever mounted their vice to their anvil stand?  If so how did that work out?

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On 8/9/2018 at 7:33 AM, GrumpyBiker said:

A bit late in the day, but no one seems to have mentioned that the vise actually had a through slot in the supporting leg,

I suspect that originally  a tab would have passed through that, and a single wedge through the tab to secure the vise to the bench, the tab being an extension on a plate secured to the mounting.

 

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Yes and the spring also had a mortise  to fit over the mounting plate's tenon and the entire system then held with 1 wedge.   I duplicated this for my earliest and smallest vise.

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On 8/9/2018 at 10:02 PM, Frosty said:

 You really need to try a vertically mounted rail anvil some time.

Frosty The Lucky.

I'm currently shopping for a 70-100lbs anvil.

After visiting Yoders Blacksmith Supplies I've begun to narrow my search.

I do need to make a new Spring for my leg vice. I received a full leaf spring assembly so I don't have anymore excuses...

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If ya got the spring steel in "close to the shape already" it'll work fine. No need to heat treat it. Just use it " as forged".

The mount you have looks fine to me but if you did feel like returning it to a mortis and tennon mount, here are a few pictures of what mine looks like. 

IMG_30082018_144821_(600_x_800_pixel).jpg

IMG_30082018_144807_(600_x_800_pixel).jpg

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Everythingmac 

(i.e. Andy Mckenzie,  a site member),  has a video instructing how to make a post vise spring.

Try  his video on you tube, number seven in the series.

SLAG.

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No problem. I'm better with visuals than just explanations so I figures a couple pictures might help what John B pointed out. In fairness I have been told it is a weaker design, but still a cool design. :)

If you need more images I could take it apart and get more. 

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I'd really appreciate a photo & as many dimensions you could provide for the thrust washer(?) between the handle & the forward jaw. 

Mine didn't come with one so I'll have to make one . 

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On 9/1/2018 at 12:16 AM, GrumpyBiker said:

I'd really appreciate a photo & as many dimensions you could provide for the thrust washer(?) between the handle & the forward jaw. 

Mine didn't come with one so I'll have to make one . 

Thrust washer dimension will vary depending on vise size, allow a clearance to fit over the threaded sleeve 1/16" will do, and thickness to be about 5/8" , the outside diameter should match the handle boss size. One side is flat, the other is slightly domed to fit to the moving jaw side. (this may have started parallel, but will wear in as the vise is used.)

Here is a picture of a vise I recently obtained, on a suitable mounting post.

Hope this helps.

Leg vise mounting (2) - Copy.JPG

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But is it flat on both sides?

Or is it conical shaped where it touches the jaws / legs ?

Or do they start flat on both sides & eventually contour to the vise over time with use?

Theres not a lot of schematics out there .

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If you want to get to precision engineering on this, then the side of the washer bearing on the handle side is flat, as this is 90 degrees to the thread box, the side bearing on the vice jaw is slightly dished. This radius will depend on the distance between the pivot on the base of the moving leg, and the centreline of the screw thread box.

In practice it should wear in with use. You could always lap it in with grinding paste if you wanted to go that far.

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