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I Forge Iron

old style 250 pound little giant


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Tonight I put some attention into the treadle and its linkage , cleaned up the dies and did make shift repairs to the old die keys. The treadle spring seems kind of weak so I gave it some counter weight. The treadle linkage is odd on this one. The clutch fork operates from a rod that runs inside the frame. The treadle axel is connected to this by a split clamp, held with a single bolt. Of course, mine had worn its seat to the point that it doesn't really clamp. Much to my shame I must confess to tack welding it rather than do a proper repair. The dies are leveled out, just look at those dies! 4x9 1/2! The top die key was too short and shimmied in its slot so I tacked a piece of 3/16 key stock to the top edge. Now it is trapped in its slot. I also added a centering pin which was missing. The bottom die is too narrow so I gave it a single 3/16 thick shim. They only have to hold long enough to for me to forge new, better keys. 

Playing with it, it has tamed considerably but the motor is stalling on me now. While I am not surprised that a 3 hp motor would stall on a 250 pound hammer, it is stalling at idle and not under load. I suspect it may be dropping a phase...

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I have some 2 1/2 inch 4140 waiting to become die keys, but alas, I am out of propane...

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I think I am going to need a bigger forge

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10 hours ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

Look into induction heaters

Good tip, that won't damage your eyes like looking into propane forges. :rolleyes:  Sorry, couldn't resist the straight line.

I'll go feed the dogs now.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Frosty, correct. The only IR is that coming off the heated part.

I worked with a 30KW unit at the machine shop I was the tool maker for. It came with a test coil for diagnostics that a soup can could fit into. One day we tried it out on some 1.25" round bar. It heated a 3-4" section from room temp to yellow in around 15 seconds. That showed me that that was the way I eventually wanted to go. With a pancake coil they are very versatile.

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Clifton ran his 250 on a 5, but said it should have been larger. I have a 7.5 sitting here, but that gear motor came with the hammer and apparently ran it for many years. Everyone's option of how a hammer should run is not the same. I thought I would give it a shot and dont think it will stay. I will upgrade in the not too distant future.

An induction heater would be awsome, but they aren't cheap. I do have a 100 amp drop right behind the hammer and no clue what I would ever use it for

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Yeah. I went from running on an extension cord to being way over powered. This is the "I am tired of screwing around" shop. I have 3 600 amp 240 v 3 phase panels and the 250 is all I have plugged into that at the moment. The concrete floor is also way overkill.

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No idea just yet. For the moment still working a day job ( well night shift). The 250 got to hit steel tonight. Definately an entirely different animal from the Bradley. Slow and deliberate is the best I can describe it. I do have some bad habits from the Bradley that definately won't fly with the little giant. I am used to setting tools in the frame of the Bradley right behind the guides. It is very convenient. That motion puts your tools straight into the arms and spring on this beast...I definately need the gaurd and break.

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Playing with the hammer this morning, and had a humorous problem. Drawing down tong reins. This hammer breaks down stock quick, and while it can be a tad wild it is controllable.my problem arose when I tried to round up the taper. It forged out square and fairly smooth easy enough, and took the corners to octagon, no problem. But knocking the octagon down to round, just squared it back up. Clifton said you should get used to turning as fast as the hammer runs, but for the last 27 yrs I have been running  a 75 pound Bradley. It runs around 300-350 bpm. I am turning twice every time the hammer comes down ! 

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On 4/8/2019 at 3:16 PM, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

Now thinking about 3 phase.

When "MEA," the electric company was running power to the house I asked about 3 phase and was told having it run the 1/2 mile and hooking us up would cost more than the land and house. If I ever set up the hydraulic punch I'll get a phase converter. 

Right now I'll be pleased as punch to get the power (100 amps) hooked up to the shop. I ran the cable last fall but have to save up my shop allowance to have a sparky hook it up. I can wire outlets, lights, etc but I'm NOT messing around in the meter box.

Electricity is so handy

Frosty The Lucky.

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I tried to get 3 phase from my previous utility. It would have required all the wiring on my end of course, but the transformers were 40 yards from the building. They wanted something like $60,000 just to connect to it, and wanted me to sign a contract to buy a minimum of something like 30-40 thousand worth per year, regardless of usage. Here the rural co-op charges me $40 a month, and whatever I use. The 3 phase was a big selling point here.

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3phase here is rediculously expensive to install from the pole.. so unless you are in an industrial complex or off the main line it can be prohibiitve for many.. 

The 40hp RPC I have came from a shop in Boston that just had gotten 3 ph from the pole and they were just out about 150ft from the supply...    25K later and they were all set.. 

I got the RPC for cheap money as I was the 8th person to go fetch it.. It was up a stair way on an old landing..   just a few years old  every person who came to look at it and the drop (No more stairs) told the guy he was crazy..  I showed up with a dolly a few boards and an 1991 Saab 900 SPG.. LOL.. 

The guy looked at me and said..  Are you sure..   I said show me where it is..   I had to down the drop and onto the dolly in about 1hr and loaded.. It's way over sized for all the equipment I run on it, but I have 2, 15hp compressors and a bunch of other 3ph pieces.. I can run all of the items at the same time.. 

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I have run rotary converters over the years a 3 originally, replaced with a 10, then traded off with the last of my 3 phase equipment, and more recently replaced with a 7.5. They are really easy and cheap to build, and way more reasonable than the $100,000+  that LG&E wanted to power up my shed.

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I got this hammer because the Bradley just doesn't seem to like punching holes. It is great for everything else, but it's short stroke and soft first blow just dont make for good results with tall tools. So today I punched the first hole on the 250. I definately need to upgrade all my tooling. My tongs aren't the right size, I dont have punches or drifts really, and seem to have lost at least half of my power hammer tools somewhere on my journeys...

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I would love to build a shop, as I don't even have as much as a carport to work in. That is why all my machine shop equipment still sits at my parent's estate.

I am near an industrial area, and asked my power company about power for a shop. Turns out I have a switch across the street, and I can get 480V which would be excellent for my big welders. $12,000 to run it under the street, and install a 75kw transformer. This was at the height of the metals market, so not sure what the cost would be today.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I made a new knuckle, and replaced the t bolt. I still need to do the other side but the old one was kind of iffy. It was a 1 1/2 inch wrought iron bolt, cleft welded to a 1 1/4 steel pin. The pin was worn quite badly. The new arm would not seat correctly in the ram. I found a ridge of nearly 1/4 inch raised in the seat holding the arm out. After some grinding it is where it should be and looking better...

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I had the Indiana blacksmiths over Saturday, and was talked into doing some forging on the 250. Low end control is not the best and it is a tad hairy when things get down to 3/8-5/16. I am getting more comfortable with it though rounding is still awful slow. I came out with about 7 pairs of tong blanks. It does eat up that 3/4 round.

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